Jimeni

The 180 weighs 31oz., will be alot lighter than the gassers, and not much heavier than the 125.

reyn3545

Yep.. my Evo 26 weights about 33 ounces... still had to add 3 ounce to the tail to balance. But, 3 ounces on a 11 pound plane (it will weigh that with a motor this heavy) won't kill you. Yours will be a little lighter since you'll only have one battery, no ignition kill, etc.. but if you go this route, don't get upset if you need to move or add a little weight. The 180 oughta do wonders with this plane.

AeroAggie

My Feedback: (5)

Well, I finally knocked out a maiden flight on my Yak. After waiting for the 35-50mph winds to settle out for several days, this afternoon was practically dead calm, 78 degrees, and blue skies. Absolutely perfect conditions for a maiden flight.

I'm using Hitec 5645s, a NoBS NiMH 6V battery, and a YS120FZ. The battery is mounted right up next to to the tank in that little empty space along the side of the fuse, and balances right on the recommended CG. The YS is nothing short of absolutely outstanding on this plane. I've only run about 1/2 gallon through the YS so far and it's still very much on the rich side, but it's turning a 17x6 APC at about 9200rpm on 30% heli fuel. On the second flight I pulled it straight up on takeoff and it went vertical with authority for about 300 feet until I throttled back. My skills aren't up to the 3D stuff yet, but I'm sure there's plenty low-end grunt with the YS to do pretty much anything you want.

It's just a touch nose heavy at the recommended CG, so I'll probably just add a 1/4 ounce to the tail and see how that goes. I can't move the battery back without moving it a good 4 inches or so, which I expect might be too much.

There's a very good chance this will be my favorite plane this year!

Merlin1205

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Guys,

Found a pretty nice pilot that seems to fit the Yak well, and the price is most excellent
Available in Red and Blue.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLVZ1&P=ML

Happy Flying,

Tim

RVM

Has anyone found a gasser that would work in this plane while keeping the weight around 10lbs. or better?

reyn3545

I don't think you'll find a gasser to get you in the 10 pound range. I went with the Evo 26, it came in at 11 lbs, 2 oz. The problem is that you not only have a heavier engine and muffler, but also another battery.

I should maiden mine tomorrow... we'll see how the power/weight works. If you watch the QQ Yak video, the Evo will 3D his plane fair, but you can tell the engine is probably about 3/4 throttle to hover. His plane is about 11 3/4 pounds with the Evo. His has just a little more wing area, adding a little weight.

reyn3545

Hey, all of you techno-junkies out there.... still waiting on some video of this thing!!!

RVM

Definitely let me know how that comes out.

You are referring to the Evolution 26 that Horizon distrubutes yes (basically the MVVS 26)?

reyn3545

Yep... that's it.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

No Video.. and sadly no pics (odd for me), but I'm one happy camper!!! Yup, I maidened her today and it was awesome!! Made me look like a better pilot than I really am. Zero, and I mean ZERO clicks of trim were needed to trim her out. CG was about right at the recommended spot, but I may move it back just a tad for a more hands off inverted flight.

Got 4 flights in and the 120AX is just about perfect for her. Once I get a few more tanks through it, I'll swap to the 17X6. Currently swingin a 16X8 and though it doesn't have unlimited verticle, she has plenty of power in uplines and snap rolls. The 17X6 will probly be a better match, time will tell.

I was really debating on flying her with the 5645s because of the centering issues, but a friend of mine helped me dial them in with his Hitec servo progammer. They don't center perfectly, but way better than they were. You can't really tell it in flight, at least I can't. The 5645s will stay. They are responsive enough for the type flying I do. I need to get me one of them programmers if I continue using Hitec digitals.

Thanks Aeroworks for an awesome flying Yak!!



Rick

rcplanenut

My Feedback: (12)

I've got the same set up and started out with a 16 x 8 prop, had the same results you did. I switched to an APC 16.5 x 5W. It made a huge difference. It has power to do anything I want.

reyn3545

I maidened the yak this morning... what an absolutely SWEET flying little plane. I think I like this better than the AW Extra 260. It took off in about as much space as I expected, and flew absolutely straight right out of the box. Not a single click of adjustment. Not one. Vertical was straight as an arrow, inverted 45 degree climb was rock solid, even a knife edge pass went with very little elevator adjustment.

ONE WARNING FOR DIGITAL SERVO USERS!!!

I upgraded mine to Hitec 5985's when I saw how sloppy the 5645's were. I did a quick range check this morning, and all looked fine. so I took to the air. After one quick circle, I was rounding off for another, and the ailerons just stayed locked in.... for about 3 seconds (seemed like 3 minutes). I brought the plane down, did a more serious range check, and was getting very eratic servo response with the engine running, antenna down... even as close as 50 feet or so. One of the competition flyers at the club took a look.. immediately saw that the antenna tube runs right between the two elevator servos. He had me remove the antenna from the tube, initially did some testing with the antenna just draped over the turtle deck. Rock solid. I guess the RF from these hi-torque servos is enough to throw some garbage into the signal.

I put a small hole and some antenna tubing at the top of the turtle deck, re-routed the antenna through that and left it hanging loose for now until I get one of those Dubro do-hickies to attach the antenna to the tail. I had 5 or so more flights, all smooth as silk.

Thanks, Aeroworks for a great little plane.... but maybe take a look at pushing the antenna tube out the bottom a little sooner?

RCHUGHES

Sounds SWEET!!!... But tell me ... how did the Evolution do?? was it enough power to pull out of a hover.. And how much of a pull was it ??

thanks
W.Hughes

reyn3545

I don't know for sure if it will pull out of a hover or not.... I didn't push it that much today. But, I would think, based on the takeoff speed, vertical climb capability, etc.. that it would with no problem. It might not be as fast pulling out as a larger gasser, but I certainly think the Evo is stout enough for this plane. This engine is still running a little rich so it will only get better.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys - Sound like some great maiden flights and happy pilots out there. Glad the Evo26 sounds like it is going to work.

Just thought I'd post a couple of pics and see if anyone see's anything that doesn't look right for a gasser (remember this is my first gasser set up).

The first two shots are just of the engine, wiring, and gas lines. I ended up using a 4-40 ball link extended out out on a 4-40 bolt about 3/4". I just threaded the throttle plate. 3 line tank system. One straight to th engine, and the loose one will go to a Sullivan fuel dot on the side of the cowl. The vent line, as you can see from the pic of the bottom is just wrapped around and out the bottom.

The third picture is what I did for the choke. I took a large wheel collar and built an arm similar to the other guys. I did leave the spring on however. I just used an round electrical connector, and a needle adjustment cable and knob I had left over from another project. The small wheel collar in the middle as you can see comes out of the hole in the cowl just enough to slide over into a small groove the cable fits in. When I'm done choking it just slides back through the hole and the end keeps it from flipping back inside the cowl.

The other question I have is -- Do you think I'll have any promlems with the carb sucking in air with the edge of the cowl really preventing any dirent air flow getting to it?? I hate to think about putting ANOTHER hole in the cowl.

The side shot shows where the fuel dot is located.

The pics of the top of the plane shows where I have things located so far. I still need to find another velcro strap to secure the LiIon battery for the iginition as I will be taking it out to charge. I also extended the length of the ingintion light so I'll be able to see it with the canopy on. I'm also going to run a Spektrum Rx in it, so hopefully I won't have any glitches. Will add the decals tonight, check CG, and I'll do an all up weight to see how close I came to the other weights posted. Also need to do a final trim and set the throws.

Well, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it

Maybe get a chance to maiden it afterwork sometime this week

reyn3545

Looks nice. The only thing I might consider adding is an ignition cutoff switch. Smart-fly.com has a very nice fiber optic unit that will kill ignition power if it senses a power off condition at the receiver. These setups are required on all gas planes at sanctioned events... they make good sense for all of us. Only takes up one receiver channel, if you have one available.

As for the air intake, you should be fine. I had to trim mine out just a little to get the cowl to fit over the carb, but with the prop pushing so much air in the big hole, there should be plenty of air circulating around the carb inlet.

Also, I like the choke... I may do something like that. You may want to heat some shrink tubing around the cable to keep it from vibrating against the cowl and making the hole larger than you want.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

reyn3545 - Thanks for the response. The ignition cut off was something I just overlooked in the final run to get this done. I just got done submitting my order with Smart-fly, so that should be here by Friday I hope.

The shrink tubing on the choke cable is a good idea to. I might even pull some small tubing over it to give it just a little bit extra to wear through.

reyn3545

Hey, AW team... I just ordered a new cowl and CF wing tube for my 50cc Extra today (dead stick repair)... how 'bout throwing a hat in the box??? Charge me for it, give me an old dirty one, I don't care!!! I gotta get one!!! Gee, maybe I should have thought about it when I was on the phone?

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

reyn3545 - If you get one I get one. Heck, I guess I should have stuck my hand out when I went in to see the guys at the shop that one day. Just because you were just days away from heading out to Toledo and a little busy is no excuse

Hey John - Rocco - You listening ??? Heck, with all the talking up about this plane and AeroWorks I'm going to be doing in this part of Wyoming, South Dakota, Montana, to just name a few, I would think a hat would compliment the whole package. [8D]

Yea, I'd even pay for one to if I need to, after all, you will probably just have to keep by CC number on my account permanently from now on [X(]

Now I hope you all know, especially the crew at AW, that everything above is said in fun. You guys have been the best in customer service I've seen in a long long time, keep up the great work.

chadderbox

Could you guys explain your choke set ups. (EVO 26) Are they something that can be purchased? I was going to use a servo but I don't want to add the weight. I think manual will be best. Your set ups look nice and clean I should have went inverted too but my tuned pipe header wouldn't have fit. My cowl has a few extra holes.

reyn3545

The choke setup is probably the biggest problem with the Evo 26 on this plane, Heck, any plane. The carb won't sit cleanly square to the engine, so you have to deal with a bit of an angle with the throttle and the choke. Yes, you could add a servo, but for something that you use for about 2 seconds, once a day, its hardly worth the expense and weight.

The pictures in the previous link are about the best solution I've seen. Mine has a metal arm with a 90 degree bend at the end of it, with a hole cut in the other end to slip over a round shaft on the carb. I also cut a slot in the choke arm that the 90 degee bent metal slips into. Its fairly easy to choke in the mornings, as soon as you give the plane some throttle, the choke releases, so it works pretty good. But sometimes, the little metal arm swings fully around behind the choke and I have to reach in and put it back in place. It doesn't cause any problems because the return spring keeps the choke open at all times.

Again, I think if I were going to copy something, I'd look at GPUT33's pictures above.

A guy sold me the engine (less than 10 flights) bisson muffler (I ditched it for the Evolution brand), several props and a spinner for $300.. he was just tired of futzing wiht the choke.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

chadderbox - If you copy mine, it was pretty simple. I took off the choke plate that came on the shaft. I then took a large wheel collar and about a 1" long bolt that fits the threads of the wheel collar. I added some brass fuel tubing in between. I found a cable kit to adjust a needle valve from another engine and crimped on an electrical eye to one end of the cable, this then goes in between one end of the brass tubing and the end of bolt. Once you have these parts together you just kind of have to play with the length of the brass tubing to make sure you get a good bite on the choke shaft when you tighten things down. I then slid on a smaller wheel collar to act as one locking system and the little knurled know that came with the kit on the end since it was a little larger diameter then the smaller wheel collar below it. I just kind of eye balled where I thought I needed the whole thing to come down through the engine cowl and made a hole just big enough for the small wheel collar to fit through. I then made one little slot on the side of the hole just big enough for the cable to slide in to. I also left the original sping on as sent and took a pair of needle nose and brought it around and hooked it onto the brass. I have since added a small piece of fuel line tubing on the cable between the small wheel collar and the end to prevent that part of the cable from vibrating a larger hole into the cowl while the engine is running.

Look at the 3rd, 4th and 5th photos above in post 289

Good luck and I hope this helps a little, just trying to return the help I was given

reyn3545 - thanks for the compliment, just asking the right question of you guys ealier and a little head scratching is all it took

reyn3545

Thanks... when you removed the existing choke arm, did you have to grind the rivet off of the end with a dremmel or something?

reyn3545

Well, I may be the first to do this with the 90-120 (I doubt it).. but I will be the first to admit it... I crashed it today. Very minor, it nosed over on a bouncy, windy landing.

No damage to the cowl, but the exhaust did catch the grass and it pulled the engine box loose at the top. It was a very quick fix, already repaired and ready for tomorrow. I think the box could have used a little better glueing job because for the most part, it was just the glue joint that failed, not the wood. Also, there are no wooden triangle braces at the top and bottom inside of the box, just on the sides.

Now there are wooden blocks on all 4 sides, 30 minute epoxy slathered all over everything, and I think its good to go.

landings are supposed to be smoother, but they all aren't... Other readers might consider adding some more glue and wood to the inside of the box, its your call. I'm not complaining about the build quality, its a great plane. This is just one of the things to add to the "how can I make it better" list.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

reyn3545 - I ground the brass stem just down flush with the choke plate. I tried several different methods of pulling it off but in the end I just took the dremel with the diamond blade and just cut the plate in two close to the brass stem. Quick twist with the needle nose and I had it off in about 3 pieces

That's to bad about the nose over, just glad it was a quick fix. I didn't add any extra wood to the firewall but when I installed the hardwood dowels to fill the old blind nut holes and installed the blind nuts back in there new positions, I epoxied the entire back and front of the firewalls so hopefully that will eliminate any weak spots.

Got the decals on tonight as the final build event. Will install the ignition cut off switch when it gets in (shipped today). Get the throws set on the control surfaces and I'll be ready to start the engine for the first time.

How are all the rest of you new YAK owners doing out there??? I know there were a bunch of us waiting for this bird otherwise we wouldn't have filled up around 9 pages of posts before the planes even got shipped

On a little side note - I was checking RealFlights site out last nigt for any updates, went into the swap pages and found the AW Yak paint scheme. Looks pretty good !!