John Murdoch

My Feedback: (11)

Marl.. Yes, I've had wide open spaces in my stab too. Once, I had to cut it wide open (almost 1/4 inch) to get the proper incidence. I'm sure if you used a bunch of epoxy, it would probably do. But, I used balsa shims where ever the gap was large enough to fit one. I just felt better doing it that way, plus, it stays where you want it while the epoxy cures.

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

If you haven't done it already, add some support pieces of hardwood into the opening. Just use some CA and put 3 pieces horizontally on the top and bottom of the opening. When you slid the stab in with the epoxy you have more of a bonding surface.

R/C Foolish

Wing-Ding

R/C Foolish,

Did you mean horizontally and perpendicular to the fuselage's length? That would make sense as it would give six places (three top and three bottom) for the stab to make contact with the fuse.

JMurdoch: The gap isn't at the two openings in the side of the fuse, it's the gap on top of the stab after it's installed in the fuse. It's like .150". Quite a bit. At least too big to fill with epoxy. Do you know what the incidence is supposed to be? 0-0-0? I'm guessing. Thanks.

Marl

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

I glued the stab on Patty #2 with Gorilla glue. It expanded and filled the gap, you just have to wipe away the excess every few minutes. It seemed that the gap didn't change the incidence and only looked bad and left less bonding area for the epoxy.

I wonder what Rogers experiance is with this issue?

John Murdoch

My Feedback: (11)

Marl.. Good Guess 0-0-0

Wing-Ding

BasinBum,

Isn't the incidence set by the location of the cutouts on the side of the fuse? With the stab installed, why would the gap between the top, center of the stab and the inside of the fuse affect incidence? Right now, the only place the stab contacts the fuse is right at the two openings (the openings that you make by cutting away the monokote). I can see that if I change the shape of those holes, it would affect incidence. Thanks.

Marl

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

You're right Marl, from the two I assembled the opening was tight enough that the satb wouldn't shift in it but that there was some gapage that the epoxy would not completly fill.

Possible fixes for the unsightly gap....

a)Gorilla glue which will expand and fill the gap.
b)Balsa or hardwood shims to fill the gap.
c)Milled fibers or cabosil to thicken the epoxy and make it fill the gap without dripping out.

Don't change the shape of the opening because that would mean you are enlarging it and that could effect the incidence. Just put the stab in and if you are going to shim it add small pieces of balsa to fill the gap.

Wing-Ding

Well, I'm a bit chagrined. I realize now that this subject has been extensively discussed throughout this thread. About a month and a half ago, I read the entire thread. Took me about a week of sporadic reading. Didn't think that subject was covered. But it's not until you actually get to a particular step of building that you gain a keen interest in solving a problem. Thanks for your replies.

Marl

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Wouldn't it be great if someone went through the thread and picked out sections that deal with the most common issues and compiled them into a FAQ. Anyone have a week with nothing to do?

rob6894

My Feedback: (3)

I just purchased this plane used it has Futaba 9202's for the ailerons. Do you guys think this will be ok.

Thanks

atvracer

My Feedback: (17)

9202 will be fine

rob6894

My Feedback: (3)

Hey guys, since I am just getting this plane as my first gasser and first extra I was just wondering how the recommended minimum throw are in the manual. I just want to take it easy at first until I am comfortable with this plane.

Thanks Guys

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Go with the recommended minimums in the manual, especially the low rate elevator. To much elevator on an aerobatic aeroplane can be a very bad thing untill you are into 3D. It won't look like much at all but if the balance is within the recommended range it will be plenty.

Now go do some reading in this thread and you'll get a lot of good info about your new plane.

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

Yes, it should be OK.

Roger

Forgues Research

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

Here we go again!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rob6894, welcome to the world of GP PW. If you have NOT read any of this thread, there is a lot of reading ahead in your future. But what is also ahead is a wealth of information from many fliers that have built and flown many PW's and we have probably thought of every imaginable question there is. We are not bad guys but we do ask that you READ THE THREAD first and then see if there are any questions you might have.

If you do some homework, you will love this plane.

R/C Foolish

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

I am building another PW and was thinking of getting a Carbon wing tube. The only one I could find was from Precision Aero Composits for $78.00 plus shipping. Has anyone ever found one more reasonably priced. I would go maybe $50 but no way would I pay $78.

bhanley

Do a Google on PBG Composites. They are in New Zealand. They
have a very broad line of CF wing and stab tubes, are very reasonable,
only charge around $10 to ship to the states and are great people
to deal with.
Bruce

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

Unfortunately it was PBG that refered me to Precision Aero which is one of their distributers. I was just checking to see if it was worth doing if the price wasn't so bad. Guess I'll stick to the aluminum wing tube. Funny how the larger wing tube for my Carden 35% Extra was $10.00 cheaper than what the're asking for this smaller tube.

allancito

My Feedback: (2)

Try Troy Built models.

They had them on a reduced price a few weeks ago.

About $60 from memory.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

What is the weight savings with the carbon fiber tube?

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

I had asked Troy Built about their tubes a couple weeks ago. The person I talked to said he thought they had them and in fact their web site said they had the tube for 1/4 scale, 80 inch planes including the PW. I questioned him about the tube being 30mm and not 1.25 and since then I noticed on their web site they are specific in stating that their 1/4 scale tubes are not for the PW. I think it would have only been a savings of a couple ounces but I was looking into it for the increased strength mostly.

WING TUBES

1.25" x 36" .034" wall
$54.95 4.3 oz In stock.
Compare to 11 oz for stock aluminum Wild Hare.
For 1/4 scale planes like those from Wild Hare (28%). Save 7 oz and gain stiffness!! Also use on the Funtana 90 (24.5").

NOT Great Planes Patti Wagstaff (30mm).

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

In the history of aluminum wing tubes has anyone ever reported them not being strong enough? I can't recall a single wing tube failure report in the Patty threads, I could be wrong.

John Murdoch

My Feedback: (11)

I had a wing tube failure.. Believe it or not, if you take her into the ground, straight down, at 3/4 throttle, the wing tube does not hold up. Humm. The rudder did alright though.

allancito

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for starting on that as I was just about to post my questions regarding carbon tubes.

I have had my Patty (s) for the past two years and have never looked like coming to grief with the wing tube. However I have sure busted a few carbon landing gears.

Which brings me to my question and comment.

To me a carbon tube is probably good for a few grams at the very most in weight saving but boy I bet they do not bend. They break. If I was looking for a bullet proof wing package then the alloy tube would be a stayer for sure. I know they bend but you have to break the airplane to do that. I wrote my first PW off with a super harrier onto the ground. Engine quit, I stalled it and the engine fell out in the impact. Wing tube is still going in the new one. Try that with carbon???

However if I wanted a butterfly and was looking for super weight savings then yes I could justify a carbon tube. However I have seen a lot of guys go and spend super bucks on a carbon tube and then stick two 2800 MaH NiMh packs inside for power. Heck there goes a lb in weight alone. And that kills any advantage you gained with a carbon tube. I think there are lots of ways to reduce weight before looking at the wing tube.

Ok now for my beef about the carbon gear available for the Patty. It is rough in nearly every case and has sawn edges. That is the gear is not moulded. The layup of the fibre cord is only in one direction and that is in the longitudinal plane of the landing gear. Thus the first time you bounce it you de laminate the gear. Do that a couple of times and you have a wet sponge for suspension. Then it breaks.

Does anyone know of a gear that is moulded. That is it hase rounded edges and the layup of the fiber is multidirectional, especially along the leading and trailing edges of the gear. I have a C-ARF 3.1 Extra and gear is layed up perfectly. Probably expensive of course but at least it is strong. The hype about carbon fiber is it is stronger than steel ( weight for weight that is) but it breaks easier than a good aluminium part.

Interested to see who else has busted carbon gear and or busted a carbon wing tube.

Miloh

I busted a set of graphtech but it saved the plane. If the gear had not broken the bottom of the fuse would have been torn out I'm sure. I have a new set to put on and hope not to break them. the first set did not last long enough to give out. I got two days with them before the mishap and they seemed to be very hardy, no sign of failure or weakness. What kind were you using?

Miloh.