tip stall and h-9 cap
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From: Yellow Springs,
OH
Here is what an underpowered h9 cap will do when not having enough speed in a turn. I have had a mvvs 1.6 gas on this plane and it just never would pull this plane worth a crap. I was making a shallow turn and down she went, straight in from about 150 ft. The engine was buried in the dirt up to the firewall. There isnt much left but if anyone needs parts off it that are still good drop me a line. I'll send them to you for the cost of the shipping. I also have a nice wing bag that my wife made for me I will sell. If interested I have pictures. Today is my birthday, what a present this was.
Jeff
Jeff
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From: Bedford Heights,
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That sucks, sorry to hear about the crash. My H9 Cap has an OS160FX installed in it, and it takes off, and flies with plenty authority. I love this plane, and got it for $199 when they had the special.
Happy B'day anyway, look at the bright side, now you can go get that kit you always wanted.
Daz...
Happy B'day anyway, look at the bright side, now you can go get that kit you always wanted.
Daz...
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From: Merrimack,
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Tip stalls are one of the nastier surprises in this hobby. It took me four planes to figure out that slow turns are just asking for trouble. There should be a post-graduate course to teach trainer grads about tip-stalling. Problem is, you almost have to waste a plane to demonstrate what to avoid. Anyway, keep that nose pointing downhill on low throttle, turn with rudder, keep the wings level. Better days are coming. Sorry about your loss.
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From: Yellow Springs,
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Daz
I got mine for the 199 special also. I remember reading some of your posts at the time on this plane. I had wanted to try something different for an engine and went with the gas motor. That was the first big mistake, second was to keep on flying it when I knew that it was underpowered.
Jeff
I got mine for the 199 special also. I remember reading some of your posts at the time on this plane. I had wanted to try something different for an engine and went with the gas motor. That was the first big mistake, second was to keep on flying it when I knew that it was underpowered.
Jeff
#8

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I watched the EXACT same thing happen to a buddy. He got it used and it was his maiden flight with it. Flew nicely around then got it ready for final. He is used to sport flying and didnt think of the speed required on these CAP's. Turned to final and in she went. BAMMM!!! We all watched in horror. Plane was toasted like yours. Fuse took the brunt as the wings faired decently.
I went through 2 cheap CAPS to learn how to manage the stall tendency
Good luck pal!
I went through 2 cheap CAPS to learn how to manage the stall tendency
Good luck pal!
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From: Bedford, UK
I know I'm going to catch flack on this but blaming it on the airplane is a crock! (Jeff this is not directed towards you, I'm sorry about your crash, that sucks).
No, Cap's aren't prone to "tip" stalling more than any other double tapered wing with the same wing loading. The vast majority of model aerobats share the same airfoils and planforms, I.e Extra, Staudacher, some Sukhoi's, Katana, Laser.
That said, there's a lot to say about proper set-up. The Cap has a low center of drag and a high thrust line. It also has a tremendously powerful rudder and elevator. When set up at the typical 0-0-0 incidence, the plane flys level under power, and balloons at idle. As the plane pitches up, aerodynamic braking slows it down quickly and you stall. Cap's need 2deg. of up thrust to counteract the difference between thrust line and center of drag.
The rudder is the second source of the crashes that I see. Pilots flying Extra's and sport planes can bang the rudder from stop to stop and never worry about snapping the plane in. Caps typically have enough rudder authority to stall/snap/spin the plane at any velocity and attitude. If I use 100% rudder in a tumble the plane will stop 90deg. to the direction of travel then rotate another 90 (think of doing a 180 in the car), keep in mind that this is at 45-60 mph! (You'll yaw 20 deg. in a Cap without thinking about it but that translate to a big loss of airspeed over that inside wing panel)
The final issue with any plane is wing warp. I've built 12 Caps from 54" to 97" and all needed correction to the wing tips. Several of the arfs had a 5 degree difference between tips, one positive one negative. This is usually trimmed with aileron but pops up when you're in the low velocity, high AOA flight mode.
If you keep the wing loading low, it will minimize any other problems and make the plane easier to fly. If you take care of the other issues by using a meter, correcting the motor thrust alignment and dialing in expo you'll take care of the source of your problems.
My (3) 25% (74") Caps flew better than any of my other 30% stuff. The 80" flew even better and the 33% flys better than all but a handful of the 40-42%.
Chris
74" Cap+Moki 2.10=12 lbs= 5mph, nose high all day long.
No, Cap's aren't prone to "tip" stalling more than any other double tapered wing with the same wing loading. The vast majority of model aerobats share the same airfoils and planforms, I.e Extra, Staudacher, some Sukhoi's, Katana, Laser.
That said, there's a lot to say about proper set-up. The Cap has a low center of drag and a high thrust line. It also has a tremendously powerful rudder and elevator. When set up at the typical 0-0-0 incidence, the plane flys level under power, and balloons at idle. As the plane pitches up, aerodynamic braking slows it down quickly and you stall. Cap's need 2deg. of up thrust to counteract the difference between thrust line and center of drag.
The rudder is the second source of the crashes that I see. Pilots flying Extra's and sport planes can bang the rudder from stop to stop and never worry about snapping the plane in. Caps typically have enough rudder authority to stall/snap/spin the plane at any velocity and attitude. If I use 100% rudder in a tumble the plane will stop 90deg. to the direction of travel then rotate another 90 (think of doing a 180 in the car), keep in mind that this is at 45-60 mph! (You'll yaw 20 deg. in a Cap without thinking about it but that translate to a big loss of airspeed over that inside wing panel)
The final issue with any plane is wing warp. I've built 12 Caps from 54" to 97" and all needed correction to the wing tips. Several of the arfs had a 5 degree difference between tips, one positive one negative. This is usually trimmed with aileron but pops up when you're in the low velocity, high AOA flight mode.
If you keep the wing loading low, it will minimize any other problems and make the plane easier to fly. If you take care of the other issues by using a meter, correcting the motor thrust alignment and dialing in expo you'll take care of the source of your problems.
My (3) 25% (74") Caps flew better than any of my other 30% stuff. The 80" flew even better and the 33% flys better than all but a handful of the 40-42%.
Chris
74" Cap+Moki 2.10=12 lbs= 5mph, nose high all day long.
#10

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Well said Chris. Anyone who wants to lear n something about aerodynamics should reread you comments.
Jeff, sorry about the loss. Did your MVVs have much time on it? I would think this engine would have plenty of power as I flew my Cap for two seasons with a lowly (according to a lot of folks) G-23 and it pulled the plane with tremendous authority after a few initial gallons.
Yes, mine would snap too in appropriate flight conditions as mentioned by Chris.
Jeff, sorry about the loss. Did your MVVs have much time on it? I would think this engine would have plenty of power as I flew my Cap for two seasons with a lowly (according to a lot of folks) G-23 and it pulled the plane with tremendous authority after a few initial gallons.
Yes, mine would snap too in appropriate flight conditions as mentioned by Chris.
#11
I have to agree with Chris, too. I'm flying a 77" D&L Cap powered with a ZDZ 40RV. It weighs 12 lbs, 14 oz. It has 1100 square inches of wing area. It would be nice if it weighed less.
Keep the speed up, use only a very small amount of throw on low rate elevator...something like 1/2" to 7/8"...depends on the plane. If you get stupid and pull full up at ANY speed, even on low rates, most Caps will roll out or snap. Use your dual rates to go to 3D rate for the wild stuff, then switch back to low rate for pull out. Oh...don't try a blender on low rate like Jason did.
It's a high performance machine that you really can't get too relaxed with or it will bite you! You gotta fly it!
Chuck
Keep the speed up, use only a very small amount of throw on low rate elevator...something like 1/2" to 7/8"...depends on the plane. If you get stupid and pull full up at ANY speed, even on low rates, most Caps will roll out or snap. Use your dual rates to go to 3D rate for the wild stuff, then switch back to low rate for pull out. Oh...don't try a blender on low rate like Jason did.

It's a high performance machine that you really can't get too relaxed with or it will bite you! You gotta fly it!
Chuck
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From: Yellow Springs,
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The mvvs that I had in this plane had alittle under a gallon of fuel through it. From the very first it didnt pull this heavy of plane around with much authority. On take off it just kindof mushed it's way up in the air and just didnt pull it well at all. When it stalled I was at full throttle and not in a tight turn at all. The engine just wouldnt pull it fast enough to keep up the lift in the turn. I guess the best way to learn is to screw up. Cost alot and is very discouraging but your wont forget. If anyone knows someone who might be interested in this motor for a lighter plane have them drop me an email. Looks as if the only damage to it is the muffler and ignition.
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff



