20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
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20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
A local supplier who usually deals with the factory that supplies Goldwing, EG, SlipStream etc is offerring a 20cc Sbach 300. Now this airplane is not listed on any of the sites (I was originally going to get a GW MXS-R 30cc and that isint listed on the GW site either, so I am not surprised). I googled the term and there is one solitary Sbach 300 video (blue color airframe). Anyone have any idea of what model we are talking about?
Ameyam
Ameyam
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RE: 20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=If0i6Xa8HGw
This is the only video or reference I could find on the internet. Really, does anyone know about this model?
Ameyam
This is the only video or reference I could find on the internet. Really, does anyone know about this model?
Ameyam
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RE: 20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
I just saw it on E-BayGoldwing Sbach 300 67in wing for a 20cc DLE Full body not profile
So I started a search that went to here LOL
Looks nice......I just finished a 30cc because I couldn't find a non-profile 20cc
I just hope they expand the line up.
So I started a search that went to here LOL
Looks nice......I just finished a 30cc because I couldn't find a non-profile 20cc
I just hope they expand the line up.
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RE: 20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
I got the airplane. There are a lot of griper
1) Its built excessively light. Doesn't have the wood where it needs to be strong
2) The wing and the fuse are to close fitting and when I tried to wriggle it into the fuse the thin balsa ply on the sides bent a bit. Its .5mm ply and there is no sheeting underneath the fuse, just stringers, so the fuse lacks strength
2) The wing doesn't have a spar (!!!), at least in the wing tube sleeve part. I thought I saw a spar after that but I am not sure. The wing is just balsa ribs and balsa sheeting with balsa shear webbing on only one side of the wing tube
3) It came with cheap robart-type Chinese hinges
4) The wing tube is CF but excessively thin
5) Looks to be put together with CA
6) The engine box has tristock but no where else in the fuse
7) There are no aluminum L-angles in the LG block. That seems to be 6mm thick ply which is no good either
8) The covering is very unimaginatively applied.
I didn't check the rest of the hardware but, needless to say, there is no way I can fly this with a DLE20. It wont even make it to the field. I am thoroughly disappointed with the quality as compared to even my 30cc GW airframes. I will be sheeting the entire fuse from inside with balsa as far as I can go. Since the monsoon is around the corner, flying will be closed for 3 months and I will have a lot of time to reinforce. Posting some pics I had taken when I checked the stuff for damage and then repacked it away. They will tell a lot more of the story
1) Its built excessively light. Doesn't have the wood where it needs to be strong
2) The wing and the fuse are to close fitting and when I tried to wriggle it into the fuse the thin balsa ply on the sides bent a bit. Its .5mm ply and there is no sheeting underneath the fuse, just stringers, so the fuse lacks strength
2) The wing doesn't have a spar (!!!), at least in the wing tube sleeve part. I thought I saw a spar after that but I am not sure. The wing is just balsa ribs and balsa sheeting with balsa shear webbing on only one side of the wing tube
3) It came with cheap robart-type Chinese hinges
4) The wing tube is CF but excessively thin
5) Looks to be put together with CA
6) The engine box has tristock but no where else in the fuse
7) There are no aluminum L-angles in the LG block. That seems to be 6mm thick ply which is no good either
8) The covering is very unimaginatively applied.
I didn't check the rest of the hardware but, needless to say, there is no way I can fly this with a DLE20. It wont even make it to the field. I am thoroughly disappointed with the quality as compared to even my 30cc GW airframes. I will be sheeting the entire fuse from inside with balsa as far as I can go. Since the monsoon is around the corner, flying will be closed for 3 months and I will have a lot of time to reinforce. Posting some pics I had taken when I checked the stuff for damage and then repacked it away. They will tell a lot more of the story
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RE: 20cc non-profile Sbach 300??
How does that link help? I could do with suggestions on how to strengthen this without overbuilding it. I am thinking to just sheet over all the fuse sides I can reach (bottom is just stringers) with balsa sheeting. Did that on a Reactor Bipe recently and it doesnt seem to add too much weight but is quite stiff (this 1.5~2mm ply doesnt even cut with a modelling knife, needs a mini-hacksaw)
For the wing, I am thinking of adding 1/4" balsa stock behind the shear webbing as far as I car reach. I have 1/2" tristock, I am thinking of encasing the wing tube part I can reach with that on both sides and both top and bottom to add strength. Will insert a ply dowel inside the CF tube or use a spare wing tube from a expired Reactor 46 if It fits. But there is little I can do for the part which I cant reach unless I decide to cut off the covering and access it, then recover with trimkote. That isint so much of a big deal, I would need to do it anyway to help distinguish my model from my buddy's.
For the LG Block and general fuse that is one piece with the engine box, I am thinking doubling with balsa ply then tristock and epoxy paint everywhere. Again, I just did that with the Bipe
This will require a lot of work with a saw, I am considering getting hold of a oscillating Bosch saw so that I have much better control (and much less effort) than cutting with a hacksaw and then sanding down into shape to fit as I am doing now.
Ameyam
For the wing, I am thinking of adding 1/4" balsa stock behind the shear webbing as far as I car reach. I have 1/2" tristock, I am thinking of encasing the wing tube part I can reach with that on both sides and both top and bottom to add strength. Will insert a ply dowel inside the CF tube or use a spare wing tube from a expired Reactor 46 if It fits. But there is little I can do for the part which I cant reach unless I decide to cut off the covering and access it, then recover with trimkote. That isint so much of a big deal, I would need to do it anyway to help distinguish my model from my buddy's.
For the LG Block and general fuse that is one piece with the engine box, I am thinking doubling with balsa ply then tristock and epoxy paint everywhere. Again, I just did that with the Bipe
This will require a lot of work with a saw, I am considering getting hold of a oscillating Bosch saw so that I have much better control (and much less effort) than cutting with a hacksaw and then sanding down into shape to fit as I am doing now.
Ameyam
#8
[QUwife997]I just saw it on E-BayGoldwing Sbach 300 67in wing for a 20cc DLE Full body not profile
So I started a search that went to here LOL
Looks nice......I just finished a 30cc because I couldn't find a non-profile 20cc
I just hope they expand the line up.[/QUOTE]
My wife just bought a 20cc Gold Wing 300! It's a nice build. I did not like where thay put the servos in the tail. One for the elevator on one side & one on the outher for the rudder, Or! Put a servo on the other side and reverse one servo, But! The servos are right in front of the stab! (That Would Look Like Crap) It comes with a pull-pull kit so you can put the rudder serco under the canopy. It has one servo for rhe Ele, so l did not put the cross brace on the Elevator. I mounted two servos on bout sides of the rudder servo & ran push rods to the elevators
So I started a search that went to here LOL
Looks nice......I just finished a 30cc because I couldn't find a non-profile 20cc
I just hope they expand the line up.[/QUOTE]
My wife just bought a 20cc Gold Wing 300! It's a nice build. I did not like where thay put the servos in the tail. One for the elevator on one side & one on the outher for the rudder, Or! Put a servo on the other side and reverse one servo, But! The servos are right in front of the stab! (That Would Look Like Crap) It comes with a pull-pull kit so you can put the rudder serco under the canopy. It has one servo for rhe Ele, so l did not put the cross brace on the Elevator. I mounted two servos on bout sides of the rudder servo & ran push rods to the elevators