ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
#1
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ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
Hello, I'm recently getting back into RC airplanes, I used to fly alot, but have not flown in close to 10 years. I have a few kits that I eventually want to finish that have been tucked away in storage, but for the time being I was hoping to getaARF.40 sizetrainer that can get me in the air quickly so I can shake all the rust off. I plan on getting a Futaba 6EXP Radio and I already have a KB and a Webra .40 size engine that I can use. I have never had anARF so i do not know the first thing about how to know if it is a quality one or not. I come from the perspective of 10 years ago when apparently at the time it was hard to find a quality one so that may have changed since then.
Appreciate any recommendations.
#3
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
If you've already ridden the horse an Avistar may be a better choice. Still a trainer but a bit more aerobatic capable than an LT-40.
Shame Global no longer offers the RCM 40 Trainer ARF (at least I can't find it). That was a good one and capable of sustained inverted flight.
Shame Global no longer offers the RCM 40 Trainer ARF (at least I can't find it). That was a good one and capable of sustained inverted flight.
#5
My Feedback: (2)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
The Stick isn't a bad plan, but I could never get used to how they look. I went with a 40 size Great Planes Sportster when faced with the same scenario a few years back. You can set it up to fly like a trainer, or as a pretty nice sport plane!
A thought that had not occurred to me at the time was to go out to the flying field and ask around about any planes that might be available?
I would go ARF while brushing up on the hand eye coordination. That'll give you some time to move towards something you really want to fly. I stepped right into gas at that point....
A thought that had not occurred to me at the time was to go out to the flying field and ask around about any planes that might be available?
I would go ARF while brushing up on the hand eye coordination. That'll give you some time to move towards something you really want to fly. I stepped right into gas at that point....
#6
My Feedback: (41)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
Ahhh, let's make it easy for a model that will take you from raw trainer to some pretty nice performance especially if you get rid of the three blade trainer prop and go with an APC two blade while feeding the little Evolution some 30% nitro....
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ts-rtf-HAN4425
It's RTF, only $400.00 and the shipping was free except for the oversize $13.50 fee or get one local.
That is unless your married to the idea of a Futaba radio because this one comes with a DX6i radio setup?
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ts-rtf-HAN4425
It's RTF, only $400.00 and the shipping was free except for the oversize $13.50 fee or get one local.
That is unless your married to the idea of a Futaba radio because this one comes with a DX6i radio setup?
#7
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RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
Thanks all for the advise, the main reason I am getting a futaba is they have a cable where I can still use my old transmitter as a buddy box to teach my son to fly. Of course if they make a cable for the old FG series with the round din cable that can adapt to the DX6i, then that changes things for sure.
#8
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ORIGINAL: phazelwood
Thanks all for the advise, the main reason I am getting a futaba is they have a cable where I can still use my old transmitter as a buddy box to teach my son to fly.
Thanks all for the advise, the main reason I am getting a futaba is they have a cable where I can still use my old transmitter as a buddy box to teach my son to fly.
You can EASILY find a super cheap, used radio to use as a buddy box. Futaba also used to sell "buddy boxes" that had no built in transmission circuitry.
There's a number of things you can do.
Opt for the best radio you can afford.
#9
My Feedback: (2)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ORIGINAL: opjose
Don't let that be your criteria.
You can EASILY find a super cheap, used radio to use as a buddy box. Futaba also used to sell ''buddy boxes'' that had no built in transmission circuitry.
There's a number of things you can do.
Opt for the best radio you can afford.
ORIGINAL: phazelwood
Thanks all for the advise, the main reason I am getting a futaba is they have a cable where I can still use my old transmitter as a buddy box to teach my son to fly.
Thanks all for the advise, the main reason I am getting a futaba is they have a cable where I can still use my old transmitter as a buddy box to teach my son to fly.
You can EASILY find a super cheap, used radio to use as a buddy box. Futaba also used to sell ''buddy boxes'' that had no built in transmission circuitry.
There's a number of things you can do.
Opt for the best radio you can afford.
EXELLENT ADVISE!!!!
Otherwise you buy a cheap one now, and ANOTHER, probably much better one, later....
#10
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ORIGINAL: ahicks
EXELLENT ADVICE!!!!
Otherwise you buy a cheap one now, and ANOTHER, probably much better one, later....
EXELLENT ADVICE!!!!
Otherwise you buy a cheap one now, and ANOTHER, probably much better one, later....
Had I taken what I spent on my first two or three TX's and put them together, I would have been happier, spent less overall, spent less on reversing servos and matchboxes, and used a MUCH better TX through my initial "learning" period.
Had I elected to leave the hobby, I would have also been able to sell my better TX... unlike my first POS purchases.
I couldn't bare to part with the cash for a GOOD TX at first... it just seemed too expensive... Wow was I wrong!!!
#11
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RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ok, that all makes sense and thanks very much.
I'm assuming based on the comments that the futaba radio I mentioned isn't all that great. The DX6i seems to get better reviews. I am leaning toward getting that mustang kit, with the DX6i and engine, simply because I like mustangs and never had one to fly before and I do not have a .45 engine at all, The engine in that kit seems to get good reviews as well. I understand about getting as much radio as I can, I also know that I will doubtfully ever need much more radio than the DX6i in that kit based on what I flew in the past and what I wanted to build and fly. So the next question is, Is the DX6i a radio that is reliable?
If not, what radio would any of you suggest.
#12
My Feedback: (1)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
Sig Rascal 40 ARF, a 72" w.s. sweet flyer that you won't regret keeping in your hanger. If you want a slower floater go for a Sig Kadet Sr. ARF, 81" w.s. big and EZ to see. It' size makes it loveable even after your through with trainers; candy drops, slow fly it backwards on a windy day, etc. The new just released ARF's have gotten a little pricey (haven't they all) but are still worth it. I think the new Rascal now has flaps too, not sure.
#13
My Feedback: (41)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ORIGINAL: phazelwood
ok, that all makes sense and thanks very much.
I'm assuming based on the comments that the futaba radio I mentioned isn't all that great. The DX6i seems to get better reviews. I am leaning toward getting that mustang kit, with the DX6i and engine, simply because I like mustangs and never had one to fly before and I do not have a .45 engine at all, The engine in that kit seems to get good reviews as well. I understand about getting as much radio as I can, I also know that I will doubtfully ever need much more radio than the DX6i in that kit based on what I flew in the past and what I wanted to build and fly. So the next question is, Is the DX6i a radio that is reliable?
If not, what radio would any of you suggest.
ok, that all makes sense and thanks very much.
I'm assuming based on the comments that the futaba radio I mentioned isn't all that great. The DX6i seems to get better reviews. I am leaning toward getting that mustang kit, with the DX6i and engine, simply because I like mustangs and never had one to fly before and I do not have a .45 engine at all, The engine in that kit seems to get good reviews as well. I understand about getting as much radio as I can, I also know that I will doubtfully ever need much more radio than the DX6i in that kit based on what I flew in the past and what I wanted to build and fly. So the next question is, Is the DX6i a radio that is reliable?
If not, what radio would any of you suggest.
The DX6i is a great little radio and should you decide to go with either Spektrum or the JR DSMX radios, you have access to all the nifty little RTF or BNF (Bind and Fly) models from Park Zone or E-Flite that Horizon sells. Is it the "Best" you can buy? No, but will most likely serve you well untill such time as you decide you want to go farther than to "for the time being I was hoping to get a ARF .40 size trainer that can get me in the air quickly so I can shake all the rust off."....
I didn't look REAL close at all the other models suggested, but I believe this is the only RTF one of the bunch?
#14
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
ORIGINAL: Zeeb
No, but will most likely serve you well untill such time as you decide you want to go farther than to ''for the time being I was hoping to get a ARF .40 size trainer that can get me in the air quickly so I can shake all the rust off.''....
No, but will most likely serve you well untill such time as you decide you want to go farther than to ''for the time being I was hoping to get a ARF .40 size trainer that can get me in the air quickly so I can shake all the rust off.''....
Some love to jump on my and other's case about this suggestion, but I'd say go right to a 7 or 8 channel - IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT -.
Jumping up that one or two extra channels on the TX, normally brings along a host of other features, improved display, more programmability, digital trims, more model memory, etc. etc. etc. plus if you elect to ever sell the radio, you'll have someothing that people may WANT to buy from you...
#15
My Feedback: (41)
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
While I'd normally agree and myself went from the Futaba 4 channel rx that comes with a Nexstar to a 9C Super while I still had the Nexstar, going to a bigger radio does not solve the OP's "which plane" question. He doesn't even seem sure he WANTS to go beyond and considering the price tag on the PTS Mustang it really is an excellent option. If he decides to go on the DX6i will serve for quite a few planes and he can buy the DX18, 12X or 18MHz somewhere down the road....
#16
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RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
I appreciate all the input, I am most likely going to get that mustang kit. That will allow me to get in the air without having to deal with cleaning up my old engines that have been put away in storage and the uncertainly of whether my old radios are still reliable since I think the box they were in was accidently dropped off of a shelf when my kids were looking for some stuff in storage and the batteries being old. I have flown before and still have 3 unbuilt kits to finish and none of them will require more than 6 channels and while it is possible one day I might want more, it is unlikely.
When the issue of radios were brought up I was more concerned that the radio supplied with the Mustang was inferior in quality as opposed to wanting something with more channels / features for the future. It seems that it is a quality radio based on comments here and haven't really found any bad reviews that outweigh the good ones.
Thanks all for helping me get back into things easier.
#17
Senior Member
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
The DX6i (I have two) does have one problem area that can bite. It's setup to use either conventional AA cells, or rechargeable NMIH batteries.
The individual battery contacts can get dirty and cause intermittent operation. It's easy to cure by cleaning them every now and then.
I'd prefer the DX 8 or a Futaba 8FG. Features beyond those of the 6i make either preferable. The DX 8 has some interesting master slave configurations, and can use a DX6i as a slave(so I'm told)
At the moment, I'm also in the process of assembling the "RTF" version of the Hanger 9 P-51. Problems so far have been fitting a set of 60-120 electric retracts, finding the exact size and width wheels needed, and locating the proper size spinner. The Hanger 9 RTF version's spinner was discontinued as a replacement part.
The E-Flite retracts have a peak current draw much higher than the 900ma listed in the specs. As the retracts start to move from the retracted position, the current draw is in excess of an amp, and will cause an AR600 or other receivers to see voltage low enough to cause the LED to blink. This is using a 4 cell 2000ma NMIH. This behavior is overcome with a 5 to 6 volt 3 to 6A BEC, preferably separate from the receiver/servo power source. During "normal" gear travel outside the detents, the unloaded current draw may be around 300-500ma or less.
An example of NMIH "A" 2700ma cell behavior is attached. AA cells have a lower current capability, likely less than marginal if electric retracts are used.
Shims may be needed with the E-Flite retracts to properly position the gear in the retracted position, or thinner wheels used.
The individual battery contacts can get dirty and cause intermittent operation. It's easy to cure by cleaning them every now and then.
I'd prefer the DX 8 or a Futaba 8FG. Features beyond those of the 6i make either preferable. The DX 8 has some interesting master slave configurations, and can use a DX6i as a slave(so I'm told)
At the moment, I'm also in the process of assembling the "RTF" version of the Hanger 9 P-51. Problems so far have been fitting a set of 60-120 electric retracts, finding the exact size and width wheels needed, and locating the proper size spinner. The Hanger 9 RTF version's spinner was discontinued as a replacement part.
The E-Flite retracts have a peak current draw much higher than the 900ma listed in the specs. As the retracts start to move from the retracted position, the current draw is in excess of an amp, and will cause an AR600 or other receivers to see voltage low enough to cause the LED to blink. This is using a 4 cell 2000ma NMIH. This behavior is overcome with a 5 to 6 volt 3 to 6A BEC, preferably separate from the receiver/servo power source. During "normal" gear travel outside the detents, the unloaded current draw may be around 300-500ma or less.
An example of NMIH "A" 2700ma cell behavior is attached. AA cells have a lower current capability, likely less than marginal if electric retracts are used.
Shims may be needed with the E-Flite retracts to properly position the gear in the retracted position, or thinner wheels used.
#18
RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
You did not mention if you have a flying club nearby. If you do you may want to get on a buddy box there and fly on a buddy box with the club and talk to the guys at the club about other options and try some of their trainers and radios before you make any purchase. Coming to RCU is a good first step. See if there is a club in your area would be a good second step. Even if you have to drive a distance, it gives you an opportunity to try out some equipment before you purchase. Just another option. Good Luck.
#19
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RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
I would personally get the ARF. Not so much for the build but because you don't need the extra TX/RX that come with most RTF stuff. Usually the TX/RX packaged with RTF models is pretty much basic stuff with no frills. BTW - The DX6i is a great first computer type radio. Ihave one and fly all my models with it. If you get it soon, you can take advantage of the current promotion that Spektrum offers. I got 3 receivers with mine as the promotion is that you get two AR6115e parkflyer receivers for free. I got mine for $190.00 out the door.