New Hangar 9 1/4 Scale P 18 Super Cub
#1276
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Very nice 72,
I see you cut the exhaust pipes down to get the cowl on. I would like to do the same and naturally leave the pipes as long as possible to still get the cowl on. Do you happen to remember the exact length the pipes were after cutting? Thanks, I plan to just use a pipe cutter however should I initially cut it to be still to long it makes it difficult to cut off smaller sections at a time.
#1277
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I am also installing nav and landing lights plus strobes. With all this wiring and the flap/aileron servos coming out of the wing, hooking everything up every time I want to fly would be quite an ordeal. I decided to simplify this and wired all connections to a DB15 connector, so when I slide the wing into position all electrical hook up perfectly. I am going to hide the wires with a cockpit kit of my own making. More pics to follow.
Wow, that wiring harness looks really cool!, but boy I would be scared about losing the connection from wing flex or vibrations from the engine.
I'm thinking about using these for landing lights, they should fit nicely in the wing. I just don't know if I want to use all three or just two: http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ng-For-Lcm-750
I've played with the online software from this controller and plan to use it for the lights: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/...ht-starter-kit
I'm hoping to wire it into the flap channel and get settings that are either: off for clean wing, continuously on for approach flaps, or wig-wag for landing flaps.
Still wondering about the wingtip lights though, I don't know how I'm going to fit both a nav and a strobe light in that little lens cover and have them distinguishable at a distance. Looking forward to seeing your setup.
#1278
I cut 1 1/4" off the exhausts but I am installing the TBM Muffler inserts so that will add about 1/4"back. That won't change anything as far as the cutouts go.
https://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMDLE20SILENCER.html
I will post some pics on the nav/ strobes tonight for you. The DB connectors stay together just fine as there is no flex at the wing root to speak of . I did this same thing with my Hangar 9 Beast and after 2 years I have had zero problems.
https://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMDLE20SILENCER.html
I will post some pics on the nav/ strobes tonight for you. The DB connectors stay together just fine as there is no flex at the wing root to speak of . I did this same thing with my Hangar 9 Beast and after 2 years I have had zero problems.
Last edited by 72; 02-14-2014 at 11:04 AM.
#1280
#1282
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I cut 1 1/4" off the exhausts but I am installing the TBM Muffler inserts so that will add about 1/4"back. That won't change anything as far as the cutouts go.
https://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMDLE20SILENCER.html
I will post some pics on the nav/ strobes tonight for you. The DB connectors stay together just fine as there is no flex at the wing root to speak of . I did this same thing with my Hangar 9 Beast and after 2 years I have had zero problems.
https://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMDLE20SILENCER.html
I will post some pics on the nav/ strobes tonight for you. The DB connectors stay together just fine as there is no flex at the wing root to speak of . I did this same thing with my Hangar 9 Beast and after 2 years I have had zero problems.
Have you test fit them yet? I thought I read somewhere that the VVRC engine has a slightly different diameter exhaust than the DLE-20 engine. Hopefully it won't be enough to be an issue.
#1283
I have not received the silencers yet but If they don't fit they will be close enough that I can file down the OD of the insert. They are very close if my measurements are correct, and the tube that fits over them will hold it all together.
For the nav lights I used the ElectroDynamics set they sell for the Hangar 9 182. The strobes required their own cutouts so I positioned them at the midpoint of the wingtip radius for maximum visibility in all directions. I made up a "clip" of ply and balsa which slid onto the tip after I cut the covering and then cut a slot in the tip with a razor saw.
After I had them in I just recovered the tip with an oval piece of covering that looks almost factory.
After I had all the wires in the fuse it looked like quite a rats nest so I decided to put in my own cockpit kit. I radiused the rear window by about 1/2" onto a piece of cardboard and then used that as a pattern and made some balsa formers that I faced with some 1/32 ply. I will screw a ply cover to all this and everything will be hidden. More pics to follow.
For the nav lights I used the ElectroDynamics set they sell for the Hangar 9 182. The strobes required their own cutouts so I positioned them at the midpoint of the wingtip radius for maximum visibility in all directions. I made up a "clip" of ply and balsa which slid onto the tip after I cut the covering and then cut a slot in the tip with a razor saw.
After I had them in I just recovered the tip with an oval piece of covering that looks almost factory.
After I had all the wires in the fuse it looked like quite a rats nest so I decided to put in my own cockpit kit. I radiused the rear window by about 1/2" onto a piece of cardboard and then used that as a pattern and made some balsa formers that I faced with some 1/32 ply. I will screw a ply cover to all this and everything will be hidden. More pics to follow.
#1285
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Alcuy,
You discussed in previous posts how you cut the exhaust pipes to fit the cowl and that VVRC included some hoses and clamps to do this. I noticed however that they did not include any such extension tubes or clamps with the shipment of my engine. Are they the standard type of stainless hose clamps? From your pics it looks like you've elongated the exhaust holes in the cowl in order to access the clamps with a wrench?
Also, did you run into any issues with the throttle linkage? The included longer arm is nice, but with the way the carb is placed on the engine, in order to put the throttle pushrod linkage inline with the movement of the arm would require a hole in the firewall right up against the standoff or only about a 1/4" away. It seems very close but I suppose this will be fine as I plan to beef up the firewall anyway. Where did you mount the servo? I was planning to put mine beside the fuel tank but it looks to be a lot of work just getting in there. BTW, your choke rod install looks really cool too! Thanks for posting.
For anybody else interested in using this engine, I can confirm as Alcuy has that if you plan to cut exhaust holes only in the cowl, it will absolutely not work unless the pipes are cut down significantly shorter. So it's either that or cutting the cowl from the back all the way up to the pipes. I feel this could be done in a U-shape while leaving the air induction globe in place on the cowl but it may look a little more odd.
I've also noticed that the exhaust stacks are offset by 5/8" fore and aft I guess? Not really a big deal but every other gas twin I've seen has the mufflers designed to where the stacks are evenly placed directly across from each other.
You discussed in previous posts how you cut the exhaust pipes to fit the cowl and that VVRC included some hoses and clamps to do this. I noticed however that they did not include any such extension tubes or clamps with the shipment of my engine. Are they the standard type of stainless hose clamps? From your pics it looks like you've elongated the exhaust holes in the cowl in order to access the clamps with a wrench?
Also, did you run into any issues with the throttle linkage? The included longer arm is nice, but with the way the carb is placed on the engine, in order to put the throttle pushrod linkage inline with the movement of the arm would require a hole in the firewall right up against the standoff or only about a 1/4" away. It seems very close but I suppose this will be fine as I plan to beef up the firewall anyway. Where did you mount the servo? I was planning to put mine beside the fuel tank but it looks to be a lot of work just getting in there. BTW, your choke rod install looks really cool too! Thanks for posting.
For anybody else interested in using this engine, I can confirm as Alcuy has that if you plan to cut exhaust holes only in the cowl, it will absolutely not work unless the pipes are cut down significantly shorter. So it's either that or cutting the cowl from the back all the way up to the pipes. I feel this could be done in a U-shape while leaving the air induction globe in place on the cowl but it may look a little more odd.
I've also noticed that the exhaust stacks are offset by 5/8" fore and aft I guess? Not really a big deal but every other gas twin I've seen has the mufflers designed to where the stacks are evenly placed directly across from each other.
Capt Cash,
Sorry I have not been following this thread for the last week, and my answers to your questions may be way outdated...
I am not sure why my engine came with the extensions and clamps as I ordered it on line and did not request extensions... The clamps are stainless and the holes are elongated as the pictures show because I was cutting the tube length to balance leaving them as long as I could but short enough so I did not have to make a long cut in the cowl. Yes, the slot is just big enough to use needle nose pliers to set the clamps. The pliers' nose needs to be long and thin or they will not reach. It was an accident that this turned out so well. I'll take accidents like that all day long. I made a couple of cuts on the exhaust but the total amount removed was 1-1/2 inches (38 mm). The length of the extension tubes: 2-3/8 inches (60mm).
Throttle linkage turned out not much of an issue (for me). I used a cable and mounted the servo in the left-hand tray provided. It would work in either tray provided I think. I used the left tray because that is where it would have worked the best for the 35 RA I started to install. As you found, it lines up very close to the mount. So I drilled a hole below the cross bracing and angled the cable a bit upward toward the arm. The cable goes below the tray anyway to access the servo arm. Take a look at these pictures from the underside of the fuselage.
The arm is in the idle position. I did reverse my servo in the radio, but the servo arm could have been flipped as well. There are multiple ways to do things....
And as you noticed, the exhaust tubes are not straight across from each other. The cans line up perfectly when mounted for this installation but are offset by the difference between the flange mounting screws. Evidently the offset in the cylinders dictated by the crankshaft design could not be totally compensated for with identical mufflers. Oh well...
I did Maiden my Super Cub in Vegas last week. We just got back last night and I will post a link to some video we took as soon as I can wrangle the files from the guy with the camera. The Cub flies very well. I put in six flights total and only had one scary stretch of flight. Evidently in the process of assembly when I was screwing with using the provided scale wheels and 4.5-inch Dubro inflatables I forgot to threadlock the set screws holding the axles. So, that led to losing the right main wheel - axle and all - while in flight.
I had not used full flaps yet and had only played with half-flaps. All I could think to do was to go to full flaps and hold it off the ground as long as I could and hold left aileron on high rates to keep the weight on the left wheel as long as possible when landing. It worked! Since I was flying on dirt, the bare hub dug in at the last and the plane flipped over onto its back but there was no structural damage! It did not even scratch the cowl! I got a small crack in the top of the windshield, but it did the flip pretty straight (and slowly) so the tail received no damage at all. Talk about lucky!
The guy videoing the flight shut off his camera after the wheel came off. I made a couple of tests with full flaps and a couple of slow passes while we all talked through what we might be able to do... and he forgot to take a video of what could have been its last landing. I think everyone watching felt their stomach sink and their heart start thumping when that wheel fell and hit the ground. Bummer! But we did take a video of the plane on the bench after the flight.
I have nothing but praise for this airplane. Hanger 9 did a great job with this one. I only needed to put 2 clicks left aileron to trim it. The VVRC 40 ran very well at roughly 1/2 throttle and can really pull the Super Cub if full is used. I just did that once . What a Hoot!
Al
Last edited by Alcuy; 02-16-2014 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Links to pictures seem to have broken...
#1291
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Flying the Super Cub
Here is some of the video footage of the Super Cub. We were playing around and decided to fly the Carbon Z Cub and the Super Cub together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnFqS5zawNE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnFqS5zawNE
#1292
#1293
Here is some of the video footage of the Super Cub. We were playing around and decided to fly the Carbon Z Cub and the Super Cub together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnFqS5zawNE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnFqS5zawNE
#1294
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I hope you've figured out by now that the Super Cub will slow down a LOT more than that to land! I fly mine at 5700' MSL and it crawls in. I can't imagine how it floats at sea level. You're probably at the same altitude I am, or maybe higher, but that Super Cub will settle in nice and slow if you let it. Cool video.
Thanks!
#1296
A guy at our club field with a radar gun timed another 1/4 scale Cub landing at 18mph with zero headwind at our field. That's pretty slow for a bird that size at that altitude! I need him to clock mine with full flaps and a little breeze coming straight down the runway. Yours should land so slow that you start to get a little sleepy waiting for it to cross the end of the runway and settle onto the mains!
#1298
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I maiden the PA18 this past weekend and its flying characteristics are true too scale with the one exception. The horizontal stabilizer has positive incidence when attached to the fuselage. This causes the tail to rise quickly when throttle is advanced and must be managed by the pilot in command. In the air it took a little left aileron trim and this was due to a slightly heavier right wing panel. It also required some up trim at 3/4 throttle setting and again this can be traced back to the incidence in the stab. I balanced the plane at 27% and this is a good starting point to get a feel of the airplane. The plane is in its environment when flown between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle and anything above these settings is unnecessary. My final remarks are for those who still fly glow either 4S or 2S. I powered this model with a Saito 1.8 FS and it is a perfect match and will take the plane vertical with a Vess 16X8 propeller. If your thinking a 2S than go with a OS 1.6 FX and the performance will surpass that of the Saito. The Saito is equal to a 33cc gas engine if your interested in a comparison.
#1299
Getting that tailwheel up out of the weeds ASAP is a genuine scale characteristic of how a real bush plane is operated! I like the fact that the tail comes up easily, predictably, and without worry of continuing on into a noseover. Best flying airplane I have. I'll maiden my 30cc Beaver soon, and I'm hearing that it flies as nicely as this Super Cub, so I can't wait!
#1300
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Getting that tailwheel up out of the weeds ASAP is a genuine scale characteristic of how a real bush plane is operated! I like the fact that the tail comes up easily, predictably, and without worry of continuing on into a noseover. Best flying airplane I have. I'll maiden my 30cc Beaver soon, and I'm hearing that it flies as nicely as this Super Cub, so I can't wait!