Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
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Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
You guys would probably know better than anyone else I've talked to, I have a edf fan jet that goes in an rc plane. I have a 9.6v 700mah battery trying to push it but the fan wont do much more than flicker and the battery it getting way hot. What do you think it could be? Might the battery be too small and it's just cooking the battery?
#2
RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
It sounds like your using a NiCad battery. We don't know what kind of motor your using either, so it would only be guesses as to what is wrong, but most EDF's need a lot more current than what you have. Usually Lipo batteries are used.
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
Ok, and yea your totally right! It's NICD I just found that out! It won't work at all then I'm guessing and is that why the battery is getting hot? Also, shouldn't it at least turn somewhat? It seems it would..
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
It's not for a jet it's a custom built land speed car. The speed controller is a old school type tamiya off road speed controller. A servo connects to the speed controller. It doesn't have a model number on it. It has a yellow and green motor cables and a resistor that's a separate box from the speed controller board. That insert that was in the controllers. Package says 1993..lol I'm just using what I got and this setup seems "solid state" rather than computerized.. That's one reason I chose this controller. I have just ordered a 11.1v 950mah lipo.. You think that will work somewhat? Even for testing purpose? I'm just trying to get an idea befor I go all out.
#8
RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
Let's hope someone chimes in who has used this type of setup before. I t would help to know how many volts the motor is rated for. It may smoke if you connet it to a Lipo. There's a lot of energy in these batteries.
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
Hmm, we'll as far as the motor. It just says 4500kv.. It's blue and black. It came with a 64mm edf unit I bought. This is the link you can see the motor yourself http://www.ebay.com/itm/180613742751?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2649
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
In one of your prior posts you describe the speed control a having "... having yellow and green motor cables ..." It sounds like you have a speed controller for a brushed motor, and you need a brushless motor ESC for the motor on the EDF. Brushless ESC's have two connections to the motor, brushless motors have three connections. It also shouldn't have any connection to a servo.
The "typical" connection look would be the battery connected via the two positive/negative leads to the ESC, the ESC connected to the EDF motor via three wires, and the ESC connected to your receiver's throttle port through a flat three wire cable. This assumes you don't have a UBEC connected into the circuit somewhere.
As for the battery, the ESC doesn't care what kind of power source is used. Volts and amps are volts and amps, whether they come from a NiCd or a LiPo battery. But as has been said, NiCd's typically don't have the delivery capacity of modern LiPo's, so your new battery should give greater performance.
The "typical" connection look would be the battery connected via the two positive/negative leads to the ESC, the ESC connected to the EDF motor via three wires, and the ESC connected to your receiver's throttle port through a flat three wire cable. This assumes you don't have a UBEC connected into the circuit somewhere.
As for the battery, the ESC doesn't care what kind of power source is used. Volts and amps are volts and amps, whether they come from a NiCd or a LiPo battery. But as has been said, NiCd's typically don't have the delivery capacity of modern LiPo's, so your new battery should give greater performance.
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
Finally found um, These are my specs... Motor,ESC,batty.
- [*]
Constant Current: 20A
[*]Max Current: 30A
[*]Sustaining Voltage: (Li-ion/Li-poly: 2-3v) / (NiMh/Nicd: 6-12v)[/b]
[*]Low-Voltage Cutoff: Auto detect and set[/b]
[*]Size: 42mm x24.5mm x 5mm[/b]
[*]Weight: 22g[/b]
Build up in BEC :2A/5VAnd the battery specs are-
Capacity: 1500mAh
Voltage: 11.1V
Connector Type: EC3
Wire Gauge: 14 AWG
Charging Connector: JST-XH
Weight: 3.86 oz (110g)
Configuration: 3S
Length: 2.85 in (72.50mm)
Width: 1.40 in (35.60mm)
Height: 0.85 in (21.60mm)
Maximum Continuous Discharge : 20C
Burst Rate: 30C
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
No, a 4500 Kv motor in a 64mm fan is going to pull at least 40 amps no matter what the motor specs say. Your 1500 battery will not last too long, 2-3 minutes at WOT. 20c is pretty low for this type of set up and for that MaH battery. You want at least a 40C if youare going to stick with a 1500 MaH battery. The 64mm I have here at th house pulls about 42 amps with a 30c 1600 battery and that battery gets pretty hot if I stay in the throttle too much. This is with a 4100Kv motor, so yours should pull more amps based on the fact that it is 4500Kv.
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
I was afraid of that... More power more money..."Hur hur hur"- Tim Taylor
#17
RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
You are using a BRUSHED speed controller, when you actually need a BRUSHLESS speed controller.
You may have already blown the motor btw...Check the resistance between each of the three motor leads, two at a time to be sure you haven't. Any two pairs should always show continuity. Make sure you test all of the combinations.
Since the motor is rated for 30A max, you'll need an ESC rated for at least 35-40A at the intended voltage.
You were trying to use an ESC designed for cars, even if it were to be a brushless controller, you would still need an ESC designed for PLANES not cars.
There are dramatic differences between the two ( e.g. braking on cars, etc. ).
And of course you'll need connectors for the ESC, for both the battery ( to match your new LiPo's ) and to match the motor's THREE small connectors.
You may have already blown the motor btw...Check the resistance between each of the three motor leads, two at a time to be sure you haven't. Any two pairs should always show continuity. Make sure you test all of the combinations.
Since the motor is rated for 30A max, you'll need an ESC rated for at least 35-40A at the intended voltage.
You were trying to use an ESC designed for cars, even if it were to be a brushless controller, you would still need an ESC designed for PLANES not cars.
There are dramatic differences between the two ( e.g. braking on cars, etc. ).
And of course you'll need connectors for the ESC, for both the battery ( to match your new LiPo's ) and to match the motor's THREE small connectors.
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RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
I ordered a new ESC the one listed in the spec sheet above. It has three leads and is for bushless. My break system is a carbon shoe/servo system. Remember guys it's a "jet car" hints not actually needing this to fly... Just able to move forward.
#19
RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
ORIGINAL: Insainhouse
I ordered a new ESC the one listed in the spec sheet above. It has three leads and is for bushless. My break system is a carbon shoe/servo system. Remember guys it's a ''jet car'' hints not actually needing this to fly... Just able to move forward.
I ordered a new ESC the one listed in the spec sheet above. It has three leads and is for bushless. My break system is a carbon shoe/servo system. Remember guys it's a ''jet car'' hints not actually needing this to fly... Just able to move forward.
Hopefully you ordered an AIRPLANE ESC for your EDF.
#20
RE: Edf jet barely flickers and battery is getting way hot. Please help!!
ORIGINAL: opjose
No... I mean that CAR ESC's have a ''brake'' feature, which you cannot use with an EDF, amoung other things.
Hopefully you ordered an AIRPLANE ESC for your EDF.
ORIGINAL: Insainhouse
I ordered a new ESC the one listed in the spec sheet above. It has three leads and is for bushless. My break system is a carbon shoe/servo system. Remember guys it's a ''jet car'' hints not actually needing this to fly... Just able to move forward.
I ordered a new ESC the one listed in the spec sheet above. It has three leads and is for bushless. My break system is a carbon shoe/servo system. Remember guys it's a ''jet car'' hints not actually needing this to fly... Just able to move forward.
Hopefully you ordered an AIRPLANE ESC for your EDF.
come equiped with an "Electric-Brake" which cannot be used with an EDF unit. If the motor is turning 49,900 ( Yes it is capable of
doing that) at wide open throttle you don't want an electric bake set up to try and suddenly stop the motor, if it did it wouldn't be
pretty when it suddenly starts slingging parts from the fan and motor disentigrating. Just remember that when a Lipo battery showing
it is rated at 11.1 volts is fully charged and balanced it will actually read 12.6 volts and @ 4500kv x 12.6 volts = 56,700 RPM at the
motor for a few seconds at wide open throttle, which is probably more that the fan unit itself is rated for, as most 64mm fans will take
up to 49-50,000, but beyond...... iffy at best. Oh and when you are spinning this thing up "Please" wear a pair of safety glasses, as I
have read more that one account of inexperienced EDF beginners having a fan disentigrate and hit them in the eye causing loss of sight.
Oh I almost for got, balance the fan blade unit.
BD