Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
01-01-2013, 05:44 PM
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Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
I just ordered a hangar-9 rv-8. I plan to put a OS 55ax in it. My 2nd choice would be the evolution 52. I would love a 4 stroke but budget keeps me in the 2 stroke range. Does anyone have recent experience with the rv-8 particularly with either of these engines.
I hope that the os 55ax will fit in the cowl with a pitts muffler.
Does anyone have photo's of either of these mounted in the plane?
I really appreciate any feedback especially with photos.
I hope that the os 55ax will fit in the cowl with a pitts muffler.
Does anyone have photo's of either of these mounted in the plane?
I really appreciate any feedback especially with photos.
01-02-2013, 09:24 AM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
Thanks fredsedno.
I have seen in this forum others suggest using the GP RV-4 cowl on the H9 RV-8 because supposedly the GP RV-4 has more room. I dont know if that is really true and for me using the GP RV-4 cowl on a H9 RV-8 is not an option.
I appreciate your help and will update the post with my results. I expect the model to arrive next week. so hopefully in the next 3 or 4 weeks I will know something.
Maybe someone will read the post who has tried an OS55 ax in the RV-8.
thanks again
I have seen in this forum others suggest using the GP RV-4 cowl on the H9 RV-8 because supposedly the GP RV-4 has more room. I dont know if that is really true and for me using the GP RV-4 cowl on a H9 RV-8 is not an option.
I appreciate your help and will update the post with my results. I expect the model to arrive next week. so hopefully in the next 3 or 4 weeks I will know something.
Maybe someone will read the post who has tried an OS55 ax in the RV-8.
thanks again
01-02-2013, 07:41 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
I have the Hanger 9 RV-8 powered with an OS 55AX/Bisson muffler and 12 x 6 prop. This engine fits completely within the cowl. I use a remote glow setup and only had to trim the cowl for exhaust, cooling and high speed needle access. It's a great combination and this plane handles windy days well. Use full flaps when landing to slow down as this is a fast airframe. I've had this plane for a year and it's still one of my favorites.
Mike
Mike
01-02-2013, 07:55 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
Mike that is great news. I was very much hoping to maintain the the scale look.
Did you do anything in the cockpit? If you used pilot figure what scale was he. I think the pilot figure H9 used in their videos looks too large.
how did you locate the proper location for the high speed needle?
If you want to show off any photo's, I would love to see them.
Thanks for the feedback.
Did you do anything in the cockpit? If you used pilot figure what scale was he. I think the pilot figure H9 used in their videos looks too large.
how did you locate the proper location for the high speed needle?
If you want to show off any photo's, I would love to see them.
Thanks for the feedback.
01-03-2013, 05:41 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
clmooring,
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
01-03-2013, 05:46 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
ORIGINAL: mgc
clmooring,
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
clmooring,
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
01-03-2013, 08:31 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
Mike great help.
I really appreciate the cowl measurement tips. I have only had one plane with a cowl to cut and that was my revolver. Finding the properl placement for the needle adjustment was a bit tricky for me. That engine had a remote needle which was straight up when installed. The 55ax will be angled so that seemed a little trickier still.
I very much appreciate the photos and especially inside the hatch opening.
Question - the cut out in the bottom rear of the cowling is just for cooling?
I really appreciate the cowl measurement tips. I have only had one plane with a cowl to cut and that was my revolver. Finding the properl placement for the needle adjustment was a bit tricky for me. That engine had a remote needle which was straight up when installed. The 55ax will be angled so that seemed a little trickier still.
I very much appreciate the photos and especially inside the hatch opening.
Question - the cut out in the bottom rear of the cowling is just for cooling?
01-03-2013, 09:14 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
ORIGINAL: mgc
clmooring,
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
clmooring,
I installed a 1/5 scale pilot.
To trim the cowl, tape a piece of card stock (I use manila filing folders) to the fuselage in a location to cover the section of cowl you wish to remove. With the engine installed without the cowl, locate and cut the card stock with the pattern you wish to transfer to the cowl to access the engine. When you're satisfied with the cutouts, verify the card stock is attached to the fuselage in the correct location. Reinstall the cowl and transfer the pattern onto the cowl using a felt tip pen. With a powered rotary tool (dremel) and a small sanding drum, begin in the center of the transferred pattern and sand away only small sections of the cowl at one time. Frequently reinstall the cowl to check your progress, then continue removing material untill you're satisfied with the result. Insure the corners of the cutouts have a radius; sharp corners lead to cracks in the fiberglass.
Wick thin CA under the head of all T-Nuts (blind nuts) to secure them in place. I had many of them push out easily!
You will need to use two channels on your radio, or a reversing Y-harness, to connect the flaps. I installed a 7-channel receiver in my RV-8 with all servos on a seperate channel. If you only have six channels, you could use a Y-harness on the ailerons.
With the OS 55AX, a Bisson muffler and the battery located over the wing tube, my RV-8 balanced with no additional weight.
You'll enjoy flying this model and showing it off at the field!
Mike
01-04-2013, 12:45 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
Based on the model to real world measurements, I think the model is 1/5th scale. So I am going to check out 1/5th scale pilot figures.
01-04-2013, 04:48 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
I don't believe a 1/4 scale pilot will fit. The full scale RV-8 has a 24 foot wingspan and is 21 feet long. The Hanger 9 RV-8 model has 60” wingspan/52” length model dimensions. This equals 20.8% approximate scale. I believe the photo above shows the 1/5 scale pilot to be close to the correct size. Go ahead and put two in the cockpit; I wish now that I had the foresight to do so.
Base on my calculations:
20% scale = 57.6” wingspan/50.4” length model dimensions.
25% scale = 72” wingspan/63” length model dimensions.
Mike
Base on my calculations:
20% scale = 57.6” wingspan/50.4” length model dimensions.
25% scale = 72” wingspan/63” length model dimensions.
Mike
01-04-2013, 04:54 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
clmooring,
The aft cowl cutout was not only for cooling, but to also make it easier to fit the cowl over the muffler exhaust tubes. I didn't want to cut the tubes in case I ever have a need to reuse this engine/muffler combination. The forward cutout is for the exhaust.
I also cut out the forward starboard indentation on the cowl to direct cooling air over the engine. The port side wasn't cut; I used black trim to create the illusion that it was also open.
Mike
The aft cowl cutout was not only for cooling, but to also make it easier to fit the cowl over the muffler exhaust tubes. I didn't want to cut the tubes in case I ever have a need to reuse this engine/muffler combination. The forward cutout is for the exhaust.
I also cut out the forward starboard indentation on the cowl to direct cooling air over the engine. The port side wasn't cut; I used black trim to create the illusion that it was also open.
Mike
01-12-2013, 12:44 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
Just picked up my RV-8 from LHS. While I was there, I went ahead and picked up a new OS 55ax too. I cant wait to get started on it, but it will probably have to wait a couple weeks.
all the RV parts look to be in perfect condition.
all the RV parts look to be in perfect condition.
01-12-2013, 10:28 PM
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RE: Hangar-9 RV-8 with 2 stroke
I have my RV 8 but I'm putting off building it until after some home improvement projects get done. However, I didn't like the fact that the wings were all white, so, I put on some red trim stripes and outlined them with silver striping tape on top of the wings. It looks good and should help with seeing the model.
