Have been using monokote since the 80's. I presently have a Great Planes J3 Cub that I would like to recover the top of the wing. But, I applied the monokote so damn well, that it is turning into a real project to remove the old stuff.

Anybody have any suggestions on how to remove the old monokote, EASILY ?

He, he, ball peen hammer? Heat gun to melt the adhesive and something to scrape it off with is how I do it. Not much fun.

+1 on the heatgun. I have found no real shortcuts. Sand off residue.

+2 on the heat gun and sand paper. Just be sure to reglue ( thin CA ) most joints as the heat will seperate some joints . ENJOY !!! RED

Have tried the heat gun route and all that it seems to do is melt the covering into and on the balsa sheeting.

Thinking about next trying a heat iron on max and trying to peal the covering off as it heats up.

Do plan on reglueing all joints with CA once covering is removed. Even though model was orginally built with CA and epoxy.

Cut out the bays leaving the original covering on leading/trailing edge and ribs, then just cover over them??

Well my heat iron idea seems to be doing the job. It is a little time consuming but does seem to be working.

As I pull away the covering I apply the iron to where the covering was attached. Covering comes away smoothly and hardly any residue is left.

Try using acetone on the color and glue residue. Dissolves easily and can be rubbed off with a rag or paper towel wet with the acetone.

Best regards from old bird.

Well you can do what I did. I stored one of my planes in the un insulated attic above the garage for five years. It peeled off just like the dry skin of an onion. Although you probably want to get done faster than that....

Yea, I might like to fly it before the 5 years are up .

Yes, I am a believer in acetone. Have used it quite a bit with other rebuilding projects of not just model airplanes.

Yep I am in the process of getting it ready to fly again. I will recover the fuse as the wing actually survived. One thing is certain, no more attic time.

If you dry the covering off, the residual glue reactivates when reheated. The best way I found is to strip the old covering- any way you do it. Mine was so bad, I just ripped it off. Most of the clear polyester came off, colour remained on the wood. Then I ironed over some news paper and pulled it off while still hot. This got most of the color off but left the surface sticky so I did it one more with a fresh newspaper. Finally I ironed down over cloth and did the same as the newspaper. This gets most of the goop off. Then I recovered. I found best to use the same color as the original monokote so any residue did not show. Use sand paper where possible, I used it only where there were repairs

Ameyam

Ameyam, I tried reheating the covering with an iron and all it did was to activate the glue, but it didn't stick once cooled. It still peeled right off. I don't mind changing the covering anyway as the clear had become very cloudy and it doesn't look very good. I will be taking down the wing off the rack after work today and going over it with an iron as well. If it doesn't reseat, the new covering will be here tomorrow and I will add the wing to my covering plans. I am dropping the clear anyway as the Ultra Stick Lite was always hard to determine orientation because you could see through it.

Unless you are recovering with a lot lighter color, you don't need to get all covering and or color off. Just quickly pull off old covering, sand all, wipe down with alcohol and recover.

Thats what I said. Also, once you remove the old covering, iron over some news paper- use the plain stuff without the plastic coating. Then remove the paper while still hot. Then repeat with a rag. this will get most of the glue off. Then sanding down will be easier Ameyam