Does anyone remember the Modeltech Great Lakes Bipe ?

I have one to assemble for a customer.

All comments, pro, or con, are welcome.

There are some old threads on this model. If you can find them, they would be enlightening. Consensus seems to be: good looking model, flies like a brick due to extreme weight needed to balance, making it snap happy. Seems there was a fellow in Sweden who was happy with the way his flew. His was the only report of good results I have ever seen. Good luck.

That's a start. Thanks.

I'll see what I can do to lighten things up in the rear end.

Tom,
Do your homework with this puppy as it was a turd.There are several links to explain and support this. I had two ,flew one and sold the other NIB. The workmanship as with most of the Modeltech planes was pretty good but the plane had it's issues. It was heavy but even after I lightened it it was a handful as I think the wing incidence was all wrong. Others who built this ARC wisely just hung them for display.

Hope this helps,
paul

Thanks, Paul.

I'll follow your advice.

Tom,
On another note, nice job on you Dallaire..
Love the colors and looks like a great flyer.

paul

Paul

The customer backed out, but he sold me the kit.

I've started the research and found a few items to watch out for.

I'll do more reading, but I think I will give this a shot, just to see if I can pull it off. I bought it cheap enough, so I won't be out much if I fail.

Thanks for the compliment on my Dallaire. She does fly well. Being a Bears fan, I'm partial to blue and orange.

My latest in done in blue and orange, too.

Hay TomCrump,
I had one years ago and it turned you to be quite a disappointment. Mine was a ARC model and covered it in red and white Monokote. I put a K&B .65 Sportster w/pitts muffler, into the model and it helped out with the balance issues with the model. The power was needed and I would suggest you install at least a good strong .60 into the model. Be very careful with the top wing and make sure you get the right side up. I would also highly suggest you beef up the main landing gear...really do it up right, or you will have issues with it coming loose latter. The kit supplied way to hold it on is weak and do use good mounting hardware. It has no glide power off...its like...toss a brick out and follow it down.

The only good thing I can say is that it builds into a beautiful model. Take your time to cover it properly and you will get a really sweet looking model. Mine ended up running out of fuel and I was low, down wind and all out of idea's. So she hit hard and did a re-kit.

Good Luck,
Bobby of Maui

Thanks Bob.

I found the ancient thread, here on RCU. I've read the horror stories, but there were a few happy endings, too.

I'm taking on this project, to see if I can make it fly. I'm fully aware that there is a distinct probability of failure.

I've already installed the strut mounts, paying attention to getting the top wing in th "up" position.

Did you have issues with the landing gear itself, or just the way that it is mounted ?

I've decided to go with wing mounted aileron servos, bypassing the torque tube setup. Would you, or Paul, have you have a servo suggestion ? I have a pair of HS 55 servos, but I think they may be too small to control an upper and lower pair of ailerons.

Tom,
Love the colors and the cowl looks great.
I did something similar a few years back with a ink pencil eraser and a drill press. Worked pretty well.
Good luck with the "turd"
Good flying,
paul

Tom,
I think I used Hitec 425BB
Definitely overkill but I had them…….

paul

Hay Tom,
Yes...I had to redo my landing gear twice before I got it right. I ended up tossing out the metal clips and screws they used in my kit, and went with good DuBro plastic wire hold-downs, and 4/40 cap headed screws and fiber lock nuts. That did the trick and I actually had a many good flights until I ran the engine out of fuel. I've flown quite a few biplanes in my time and understand how tricky they can be. I also flew off of an asphalt runway and had good tries on my model. I ran Airtronics 94102 servo's all around and worked out well for me. I went with a 13x5 Master Airscrew, a K&B .65 Sportster and went for thrust...not high RPM w/speed. I had a good climb...not a ballistic vertical...but a good solid climb. Don't go fast with this Modeltech model...the tip stall is vicious with this bird, and the only reason I didn't re-kit the model much earlier then I did, was because in the beginning, I flew four mistakes high. The kit I had was surprisingly well put together and with a ARC model, I was able to see just how well they built it...and they did a good job on my model. Take a good look at your model and re-glue anything that your not happy with. I didn't have to re-glue any part of my model and built it stock. I used a 10 oz. Sullivan Flex fuel tank, moved as far forward as I could and I do believe, my battery was under the fuel tank. I mounted my servo's right up against the fuel tank, but I made the support bar for the servo's removable, so I had access to the fuel tank latter, if needed.
Good luck with your build and put some pictures up so we can see how it is going together.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Thanks for the info, guys.

I mounted the bottom wing today.

I'll research the suggested servos.

I've been working on the little GL.

I moved the servo tray forward, and made it removable. I lightened anything and everything, made from balsa, behind the cabin area. Larger tires were added. The tail is in place, and is covered. The top wing is covered, too.

Using a Saito .50, I did an initial balance. Everything is right on the mark, per a suggestion made by a Hobby People employee, in an ancient thread.

I'm getting excited. I think this thing may actually fly ! I have hopes that I will get by without adding additional ballast. This should keep her in the correct weight range, specified at arounf 6 pounds.

I sure hope you can make this little bipe fly. I have always liked this bird, but every time I see one come up for sale, have passed on it due to it's reputation. I would love to do an electric conversion on one. If it flys, you need to post up some pics and vid.

We'll see how it turns out, Terry.

Electric may be a little more difficult, because the battery pack would be hard to locate far enough in front of the balance point.

I installed nyrods, and covered the tail section today. Then all 6 on my grand children invaded, all at once. There was no more time for modeling after that !.

I was sorta thinking about using magnets to hold the cowl, and mounting a 2 smaller packs on the firewall next to the motor. That worked well on my Dr1. But I aint doing nothin, til I know it can be made to fly.

I don't blame you.

I'm not quite ready to start my next build, so I thought that I'd take on this challenge. If I fail, I will still have learned something, so I can't lose.

Tom,

I had a buddy who had one of these and asked me to test fly it. I went through all the threads, read all the horror stories, and was prepared for the worst. The airplane flew great, go figure. My friend received it second hand so we do not know if it was built box stock and we just happened to get a good one or if the incidences had been modified by a previous owner. My buddy did some minor repairs, put new covering on it, and as I recall he also moved everything as far forward as possible. I wish I could tell you why it flew well when others did not but I'm afraid I do no know why!

Thanks, Chad.

I'm making mine as light as possible. I have everything moved forward. I haven't done the incedence thing yet, but it looks like the stab has more positive than the wings. From just looking at it, I'd guess that the bottom wing is at zero, the top at a -1 and the stab at a +1. This should produce a model that flies tail high.

Between assembling a few ARGs, I've been working on the Great Lakes Bipe.

I started to cover her in Monokote, but I suck at it. The covering has been removed, and the airframe has been covered in Solartex Dark Blue, and 21st Century Fabric Cub Yellow.

Doing this deviates from my original "Keep iy as light as possible" plan, but I had the covering on hand, and I want to keep costs to a minimum.

Roundels are on order from Gary at Decal-it. http://www.decal-it.com/ The rest of the markings are from a Pica FW 190D decal sheet.

I need to mount the Saito 50, and re-check the balance. A coat of clear is needed for the Solartex, too.

Tom,
Your bipe is looking good and bravo to you that you have stuck with this project. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a little positive incidence to the stab helped this puppy fly better. I suspect that's true with most bipes but might be too late here since you're already covered.

Good luck with it
paul

Thanks, Paul

I'm working on this as time allows. Flying has been my chief modeling activity this Summer.

I have the cowl cut to accept the Saito, and it's ready for primer. I should get to that, today.

I'll get the incedence meters out, again, soon. The stab is set at 0. My plan is to set the stab and bottom wing at 0 degrees, and the top at -1. Does that sound reasonable ?

Tom,
If it were mine I might use 0, 0, 0, as a baseline starting point. This way you can even make your initial adjustments to the motor [shimming up or down but probably down] which is pretty simple. This is what I have done with all my bipes for their maiden voyage and it's worked for me.

Just my 2 cents,
paul

Thanks Paul !