I am really not a bad person or a spaz, I am just having a "Falling Down" moment....

Begin Rant

I have successfully built some very intricate and detailed models in the last twenty years. Sig Cubs and Bonanza, Topflite Corsair (the Original one) to name a couple. In that time I made my share of mistakes and had to work back and fix the foul ups to make things right again.

I gotta tell ya - it really ticks me off when I gotta clean up somebody else's screw ups.

I bought the 1/4 scale Super Cub because my time is very limited and I have heard really good things about Hangar 9. Everything upon inspection seemed just perfect (except CA hinges on a 1/4 scale airplane-that one has been taken care of) The quality out of the box was great and I was really gung ho to complete the project and get it to the field to spend my free time the way I like to- flying-- not building.

This Zenoah engine plate deal has me really beside myself. For those of you who are not aware of it, the adapter plate for the Zenoah in alot of kits is not only too thin but the engine mounting holes are in the wrong place. Okay, fine- S happens, see my other posts and you will see my fix for that.
BUT, and thats a big BUTT, having followed the directions, I drilled the firewall holes as described. Now when I bolt the engine/plate assembly the screw heads hit the timing cover and bind. SO I moved the holes outboard slightly. Right side fixed- Left side hole interferes with triangle backing stock for firewall and no room for blind nut. ARGH!!

My fix - I am going to tap the two, original, lower holes in MY (not Zenoahs) aluminum adapter plate to accept 1/4-20 SS panhead screws from the inside of the fuse. This will get the heads out of the way and allow for the use of a monster screw(never a bad thing).

The final verdict- in the three weeks I have had with this airplane- I have spent the majority of the time dorking with this motor bolt-up. granted my time IS limited- but this bird should be flying by now. I easily have 6 hours of work in the engine mate-up and it still aint' done. Not because I am slow or because I am inexperienced at building- but because somebody else fouled up. I can get this kind of abuse at work.

Oh and thanks Horizon.. for your nonexistent reply to my questions about this problem.

END RANT

OH yeah and Ya know the little arm that comes with the Zenoahs... Don't use a needle nose to rip the metal throttle arm off like they say to do - use a file and take the factory smush out of the top of the throttle shaft first- or you could be buying a new carburetor.

Mike

Mike, what they didn't tell you, is that ARF is an acronym for "almost ready to fix"!

I once spent about 30 hours total in order to get a Cermark Pitts (really deserved the name) flight worthy. The defects of this (first series) kit were too numerous to liest and I'm certain that it would have broken-up in the air, if I hadn't taken the time to fix its many defects.

Out of all the ARFs, H9 and SIG still seem the best for the least amount of "quality" errors ie: no glue on engine mounts or just plain poor workmanship. However, I still add about 20 hrs to an ARF for inspection and repair of the mickey mouse mistakes.

Now, you seem to have taken an even bigger gamble by using an engine that was not "common" to the ARF. I had this problem with some in that it seems they were all built to accomodate a two cycle .40. To put in anything other than that, add an additional 20 hrs.

I spent the money on a super stick, was only my 3rd arf aside from molded foam aircraft. All looked well until the epoxy cured of course, I thought maybe something was under the fuselage when I set it flat, until I put a ruler next to it. I can't even describe how many times the sides of the fuse didn't match. I set it on one side and traced the profile, then cut it out. I set it on it's other side and laid the stencil over it...what the??? It was hard to tell by just looking at it since it was all white, but that stencil made it look like night and day. I managed slice off the Hstab and sand down the Hstab area and wing saddle to match. It did fly after all my corrective surgery, but sheesh.

The super stick is from thier "value" line.
I can't stand anything from that series. They are very cleaply made and a waste of money.
And as far as I know they are all being phased out. The Ultra Stick is about 10 bucks more and is a MUCH nicer plane.

While I give you that a gasser is not common for an ARF, This kit was design for and came with the parts to use the Zenoah. Had the holes and thickness been correct it would have been a walk in the park--- Just like the reviewers install of the same motor in the same airplane- A SNAP to bolt up. Ya know the reviewer is going to get a top notch kit w/ no mistakes.

Preciate the input-- I am much better now that I am back at work, behind deadline and over budget again. AHHHHHHHH! Peace.

I believe there is an 'update note ' on their web page (product support) concerning the mounting of of the new G-26 on the Cub and Super Cub.

Jerry

In defense of Hanger 9, I have a .40 size Hanger 9 "Value Series" Cherokee.
It is a good value for the money. Everything fit, it flys great, the top of the fuse is ABS but so what, it isn't "stand-off" scale model material.
It's a good flying ARF for about $120. Cheap when you consider all I added was radio gear and an engine. EVERYTHING else was there.
Sure it could have better linkage and etc. this and that but that's not the point of a "value series" is it.
Hanger 9 has done me well with both the Cherokee and a AT-6.
Work with the company, they do listen

Mike

As Jerry said there is an update on their web page. I actually had to use 1/2 of basswood to mount the engine. When I was putting mine together I called Horizon and they were great! Pointed me to the page and walked me through what I needed to install my engine. You don't need the back plate of the G26. I have been flying mine for a little over 3 months now with a G23. I absolutely love this plane. I even cartwheel it on take off once. Note to self, make sure you have enough speed or it will snap on you! Anyway, no major damage. Just a broken prop and had to put another dowel in the wing! Construction is great! Give Horizon a call. They definitely know about this problem.

Lee

Lee

Thanks for the motivation to finish this bird. I found the page on Horizons site describing the problem just a few minutes after I discovered there was a problem.

I did not use the original backing plate from the motor, the manual said to take it off. I did throw away the foul adapter they sent and made one of my own in 6061 billet Aluminum. See my link below- I should make parts for these guys! [8D]

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...tm.htm#1153856

I am in the metal business so it was no problem to take a few minutes and make the plate myself. The weight difference is negligible with my lightening holes.

Let me re-state my position on the airplane. I love the look, assembly and quality of the kit. A rant, however, is a sometimes irrational outburst caused by frustration or other stress. [sm=tongue.gif]

I am fine now and plan to have a flight test in 2 weeks. I may load the camcorder into it for the first flight. They are always fun.

*** Build update--- I placed a 3/8 hardwood square stock between and just aft of the alignment holes in upper fuse. There was a lot of flexing there when I placed fore and aft load on the wingtip. Maybe not needed but the covering stopped wrinkling there now.

Mike,

Nice job on the motor mount. I added about 12 oz to the back of that beast to balance it at 5". I got a great deal on servos for mine. Here are the specs:

4 JR 811's in the wing
2 HiTec 5645's Rudder and Elevator
1 JR 537 for the throttle

I haven't mixed in Rudder and Aileron, I try to fly it with both sticks. Also, this Cubby will ground loop quickly if you accelerate too fast [sm=biggrin.gif]. Found that out once also. I fly my G23 with a 16x8 Zinger prop . I have tried others 16x12, plane slowed down like it just hit the third wire on an aircraft carrier. Also, tried the 16x10. For me the 16x8 is pretty much a good fit. Thinking about going to an 18x8, guy at the field has had a couple of G23's and said that was a good prop. Hope this helps. Give us a report when you get her airborne.

Lee

I'm flying mine with the G26 and a 18-6/10. it pulls like crazy. I still need to put a hatch in the bottom and move my batteries back.

Nice job on the mount... I kept both the plywood mounts (glued them together), threw away Zenoah mount, and made a new 1/4 alum mount to replace that ... the fix at H9 support had the holes on wrong place... ughh.. ended up with 6-1/4 from firewall to prop washer.[8D]

Getting back to the original post of this thread, the advertised "15 to 20" hours to complete most ARF's is bunk. I typically spend a couple of weeks (a few hours a night) putting one together. Some people might be able to pull it off in 20 hours. I could probably do one in 20 hours if I only wanted to fly it once.

quality issues are frustrating... they cut into quality build time... and can risk the outcome... this motor mount thing... if it had not been for this forum... thank you.. saved me some grief..

Building an ARF does save me some time... reduces the amount of CA and Epoxy I have to endure... sanding.. etc... although I end up checking every glued joint I can see...

Bottom line. this is still a very nice ARF... looking foward to flying it...

Bob,

You will love this plane. I bring it and my Patty to the field on mild days. It is great for Touch and Gos. With flaps fully deployed, it will land at almost a old mans walking pace. I have a G-23 it mine and I need to double check my fuel lines. Been having some trouble lately with the engine cutting off on landing and when the attitude is straight up. You will have fun with it.

Lee

If you haven'e been to this website you will love it...
awesome photos of the Super Cubs....

http://www.supercub.org/schome.php

Here is another site that specializes in Super Cubs

http://www.cubcrafters.com/

thanx...I'll check it out