I just bought a goldberg ultimate 10-300 what I was wondering is if any of you have put it together with just the hardware that comes with the arf,it came with carbonfiber rod with split metal ends that go inside the rod this is for the elevator, and what servo for elevator and rudder,any advise would be helpful thanks

I'm putting the finishing touches on one.

The kit-supplied elevator pushrod works fine, IF you don't follow the instructions. They tell you to mount the servo off to the side, when it should be centered. An offset split pushrod will give differential throw on the two elevator halves.

They want you to put the rudder servo in the middle, because of the pull-pull cables. So basically, you need to have both the elevator and rudder servos centered. The pic below is how I did it; just a few hours extra work, and most of the stuff came out of my junk box.

The rest of the hardware is good, and I used all of it except for the Dave Brown engine mount. The holes in the upper wing do not match the cabanes once the I-struts are in place, so you will have to do some surgery when fitting the upper wing. No big deal, just an annoyance.

Overall, I have found this to be an excellent quality ARF. However, mine is one of the last "original" Goldberg kits. I haven't seen a recent one, as kitted by Lanier; but they claim the same vendor is doing the model.

If it flies as good as the kit I built ten years ago (and foolishly sold), I'll be very happy...

That's absurd!!!
You can get the end of the elevator servo arm as close to the centerline of the airplane by putting it on the side as can putting it in the center. Besides, as long as the rear clevices move the same distance - and they HAVE to if they're connected to the same pushrod, the elevators will move the same distance - no differential. Looks to me like you're putting two more links, another pushrod, and a bellcrank in the system needlessly - just more stuff to cause problems in the air.

Just put it together as instructed - you won't have any problems. I've flown mine for two years now with both a Saito 150 and a YS 140. You're gonna love this bipe.

Any one like to add to the list of "must do" mods the the Goldberg Ultimate ARF with a OS 1.20 Surpass?
Thanks - Robin

I agree that adding this to the plane it is just asking for trouble,with more moving parts more broken parts what I was wondering is the elevator push rod is so long that it might flex or the metal end will flex

d Plane Boss,

I agree with you, but look harder at that photo. The bellcrank is set up for a pull-pull rudder, attached via the link to the upper servo. The elevator pushrod passes over the bellcrank and is connected to the center servo. That rudder hookup is trouble for sure, looks to me like it's going to provide differential rudder. I would move the elevator pushrod to the inboard side of the upper servo, flipping the output arm so it points in towards the center of the fuse. I'd move that rudder bellcrank link to the other side of the center servo and attach it to the other arm on the bellcrank (the lower one in the photo). That would keep the movements of the servo arm and the bellcrank relatively parallel and also out of the way of the elevator pushrod. And finally, I'd put the throttle linkage on the outboard side of the lower servo, out of the way of the rudder link.
Just my two cents....

SteveW,
You're absolutely right.
The elevator is best driven by the top servo with the arm extended toward the center.
If you drive the rudder from the center servo, you don't need the bellcrank and extra pushrod - just drive the pull-pull rudder off two ends of the servo arm. Then the throttle can be driven off the out-board end of the lower servo arm. Note that the center servo is elevated off the servo tray - this is so the center servo arms don't conflict with either of the other servo arms.

MK Bellcrank on elevator, bone stock rudder. Use supplied everything else...

For the first year, I ran the supplied 2-56 elevator hardware in the rear. Never had a problem, but there was some flex on the ground. When I put that YS140 in it, I changed the elevator hardware to 4-40 which stiffened it up but had no detectable effect in the air - I don't think it's necessary.

As for other tips, don't fool around trying to attach the cabanes to the fuse from the wing opening. Cut the covering off the bottom front of the fuse and you can reach right in and get to it very easily. Then recover that compartment with anything - it's completely enclosed in the cowl. Everything else on mine is box stock and like I said - you're gonna love this bipe.

gas freak,
Just a couple more items -
I had the rudder CA hinges break in the first few flights. If it's not to late, use some good pinned nylon hinges in the rudder. I used the CA hinges everywhere else and they hold up just fine. As far as servos are concerned, I have Futaba 3004's all around and they give me all the torque I need. I 3D this plane quite a lot and standard servos seem to work just fine.

These planes always come out nose heavy anyway so use two elevator servos in the tail. Just my opinion.

I've been flying mine for 3 years with a Saito 1.20 just like it came in the box. No problems whatsoever! I have not modified anything. I am thinking about installing 2 elevator servos in the tail though because it does come out nose heavy with the Saito.

You guys crack me up.I see nothing wrong with Steve's set up!!It's not exactly what I would do,but I agree that the split elevator pushrod stinks.Under a heavy load it WILL flex.I built the kit version a lot of years ago and used two elevator servos up front with the pull pull rudder servo in the center.With the ARF I would put two in the rear.Even if Steve's set up does have differential,which I don't think it does,with a computer radio,(which everyone has)you can adjust it out.Looks good to me Steve.
Mike

Is it readily apparent on how/where to fit the dual elevator servos?
I plan to use an OS 120 Surpass so the weight should be the same.
Thanks
Robin

Rest assured there is no differential in my rudder arrangement. And this is not the first time I've used this exact set-up with success. I guess Nelson and all his varied similar bellcranks- which is where I got the idea- is absurd too???

And if you feel certain that a symmetrical split pushrod (which is the way they show you to build it) driven from one side of the centerline will not push/pull one elevator half more than the other... well, everybody has to believe in something...

Thanks, Mike. I got caught without my nomex here...


.

It's not a matter of belief - it's a matter of PHYSICS.
Why is it everybody wants to change the laws of PHYSICS?

thanks d plane boss for all of the advice i am going to build it just like the maual says to build it for on reason is thats why I bought a golberg to start with because of quality kits once agian thanks by the way I have had problems with ca hinges in the past so I have started using dubro pinned hinges on my last model[8D]

It's not a matter of belief - it's a matter of PHYSICS

Sorry,I often forget the level of intelligence I'm dealing with here.Please forgive me Doctor !!