Magic extra and simply magic... whats the difference
#1
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From: Amherst,
NH,
I have been looking at the Modeltech Magic Extra 300L ARF and the ModelTech Simply Magic ARF. These planes seem similar and I was wondering what the differences were. (other than the obvious looks) Do they fly the same?
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I haven't flown both just the magic extra but i have looked at both and here's what i noticed.
1) simply magic has the cowl, looks nicer adds weight
2) the fuse aft of the canopy is somewhat thinner on the simply magic
3) the tail surface on the simply magic is shaped a bit different and the rudder area is some what smaller not good IMHO
4) the landing gear is stright and it looks a bit shorter/lower to the ground on the simply magic also not good IMHO
5) the wing on the simply magic has 30 more sq inches of area,not enough to make any difference
there maybe some other differences, these are all I noticed. even though i haven't flown the simply magic i really don't think it will fly any better than the magic extra, as a matter of fact i think it would fly a bit worse for the 3d stuff due to the smaller tail surface area and extra half pound or so in weight. the magic extra is a real nice flying plane and does 3D ok, if thats what your after get the magic extra.
1) simply magic has the cowl, looks nicer adds weight
2) the fuse aft of the canopy is somewhat thinner on the simply magic
3) the tail surface on the simply magic is shaped a bit different and the rudder area is some what smaller not good IMHO
4) the landing gear is stright and it looks a bit shorter/lower to the ground on the simply magic also not good IMHO
5) the wing on the simply magic has 30 more sq inches of area,not enough to make any difference
there maybe some other differences, these are all I noticed. even though i haven't flown the simply magic i really don't think it will fly any better than the magic extra, as a matter of fact i think it would fly a bit worse for the 3d stuff due to the smaller tail surface area and extra half pound or so in weight. the magic extra is a real nice flying plane and does 3D ok, if thats what your after get the magic extra.
#4

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ej,
I just got back from flying my Magic Extra 300L (5th flight). Dude it is the coolest 3D plane for the money. It will knife adge all day long. Most planes don't knife edge so well so this impresses me. It hovers so nicely. This thing can do everything really well.
Get a flex tank from Sullivan for $5.50. It goes in a lot easier than the one they supply.
Make sure your engine is at least a 46 (like an FX would be great) and that the CG is about 4-4.5 inches from leading edge. I use an Irvine .53 on mine. A little over kill to be honest.
And does it look cool.
I love this plane.
Joe
I just got back from flying my Magic Extra 300L (5th flight). Dude it is the coolest 3D plane for the money. It will knife adge all day long. Most planes don't knife edge so well so this impresses me. It hovers so nicely. This thing can do everything really well.
Get a flex tank from Sullivan for $5.50. It goes in a lot easier than the one they supply.
Make sure your engine is at least a 46 (like an FX would be great) and that the CG is about 4-4.5 inches from leading edge. I use an Irvine .53 on mine. A little over kill to be honest.
And does it look cool.
I love this plane.
Joe
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From: Amherst,
NH,
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear you are having such a good time with yours.
I have a .46 fx im planning on putting in it. what prop would you suggest?
I have a .46 fx im planning on putting in it. what prop would you suggest?
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I run mine with the Magnum.52 and an APC 12.25x3.75 FF prop GREAT combo. with the FX's I have had the best luck with the APC 12x4 on my profiles,the 12.25x3.75 at 2500ft ASL just spins up to slow for me, try both. If for some reason you aren't happy with the 12 inch props my next choice would be 11.5x4 FF prop or maybe just a plain 11x4.
when you get your magic extra I would sugest you buy a new fuel tank the stock tank is JUNK,make sure you fuel proof the firewall and tank compartment with thined epoxy. i also added hard wood doublers right above the balsa doublers in the fuse wing saddle area, the fuse is kinda weak right there. I also put flying wires on the tail surfaces ,helps keep the stab on IMHO. on the rudder i used pull/pull cables instead of the push rod set up,either works. I really didn't like the wheel coller elevator push rod set up, I used a short piece of dave brown fiberglass pushrod and epoxy to join the 2 rods together, i also placed bends in the rods once they were slid into the hollow fiberglass pushrod to keep them from coming out just in case the epoxy loosened.
oops i forgot i didn't use the ARF pushrods either, replaced them with 2-56 rod and clevises to match. I also glassed the wing joint, and replaced all the soft metric screws with good hard scoket head screws. If you do replace the tank and you really should set it up so the center of the tank is about 1/4 below the High speed needle valve, fill and redrill the hole in the firewall for the new location. the stock tank is MUCH to low for good fuel draw IMHO.
John
when you get your magic extra I would sugest you buy a new fuel tank the stock tank is JUNK,make sure you fuel proof the firewall and tank compartment with thined epoxy. i also added hard wood doublers right above the balsa doublers in the fuse wing saddle area, the fuse is kinda weak right there. I also put flying wires on the tail surfaces ,helps keep the stab on IMHO. on the rudder i used pull/pull cables instead of the push rod set up,either works. I really didn't like the wheel coller elevator push rod set up, I used a short piece of dave brown fiberglass pushrod and epoxy to join the 2 rods together, i also placed bends in the rods once they were slid into the hollow fiberglass pushrod to keep them from coming out just in case the epoxy loosened.
oops i forgot i didn't use the ARF pushrods either, replaced them with 2-56 rod and clevises to match. I also glassed the wing joint, and replaced all the soft metric screws with good hard scoket head screws. If you do replace the tank and you really should set it up so the center of the tank is about 1/4 below the High speed needle valve, fill and redrill the hole in the firewall for the new location. the stock tank is MUCH to low for good fuel draw IMHO.
John
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From: Amherst,
NH,
Thank you once again. Anything else I should know? How is the slow speed flight/ landings? Anything I should look out for?
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From: Las Vegas, NV
this plane flys very well at Sloooooooooooow speeds
use book high rates(or more) once your comfortable with them for slow flight as the controls are a good bit more responsive, book low rates are to mushie on ail for slow flight. landings are very uneventful, with the thick wing it slows very nicely(to a crawl) and maintains good control response all the way to touch down. even with my rates set to max throws it shows no bad habits and is not sensitive to pitch inputs BUT I've been flying areobats and profiles for sometime. I use what inputs the plane needs to get the job done, start yanking on the sticks it WILL snap so will ANY other plane. set the plane up by the book EXCEPT for CG, test fly on low rates and get used to it then crank it up and have FUN. on the CG do a search here on RCU, many people have said the book CG is WAY off and i fully agree, I test flew mine at 4 1/4 inches book max is 3 3/4 that is just pure BS. after a few very docile flights at 4 1/4 i moved back to 4 1/2 and then to 4 3/4. I really don't think going to 5 would have done me any good the plane fly's great at 4 3/4.
John
use book high rates(or more) once your comfortable with them for slow flight as the controls are a good bit more responsive, book low rates are to mushie on ail for slow flight. landings are very uneventful, with the thick wing it slows very nicely(to a crawl) and maintains good control response all the way to touch down. even with my rates set to max throws it shows no bad habits and is not sensitive to pitch inputs BUT I've been flying areobats and profiles for sometime. I use what inputs the plane needs to get the job done, start yanking on the sticks it WILL snap so will ANY other plane. set the plane up by the book EXCEPT for CG, test fly on low rates and get used to it then crank it up and have FUN. on the CG do a search here on RCU, many people have said the book CG is WAY off and i fully agree, I test flew mine at 4 1/4 inches book max is 3 3/4 that is just pure BS. after a few very docile flights at 4 1/4 i moved back to 4 1/2 and then to 4 3/4. I really don't think going to 5 would have done me any good the plane fly's great at 4 3/4.John
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From: Las Vegas, NV
ej without knowing you or your flying ablity I may have given you some bad advice on the CG. my plane was still a good bit nose heavy at 4 1/4 very docile and easy flying to ME, to you it my be a twitchy monster. the book CG range is fine to use, it will be nose heavy for sure just remember nose heavy planes fly like #$^& BUT they allmost always fly again
if this is a 3rd or 4th low/mid wing plane for you the CG at 4 to 4 1/2 inches for test flights should be no problem.
John
if this is a 3rd or 4th low/mid wing plane for you the CG at 4 to 4 1/2 inches for test flights should be no problem.John
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From: Amherst,
NH,
Thanks a bunch. I think i will start with the CG at recommended setting. I figure i can always move it back after i get comfortable with it.
#11

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I use an APC 12.25-3.75 on my 46FX (on an Ultra Stick 40). It runs pretty good but I agree it takes a bit more to wind up. I'll fly it for a while that way before I go to 12-4 or something smaller.
I read a post that a guy tried CG's all the way up to 5 1/2 and that was finally the end of the CG range (it was barely controllable). He said he finally ended up at 4 3/4 or 4 7/8 I believe.
This thing is very very controllable at slow speeds. It's just the best plane if you ask me. My tank is not raised and it draws fine.
Joe
I read a post that a guy tried CG's all the way up to 5 1/2 and that was finally the end of the CG range (it was barely controllable). He said he finally ended up at 4 3/4 or 4 7/8 I believe.
This thing is very very controllable at slow speeds. It's just the best plane if you ask me. My tank is not raised and it draws fine.
Joe
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From: Amherst,
NH,
Thanks again! I should have one by christmas[8D]. but I wont be able to fly it until spring unless I put skis on it. but at least I will have it ready when the snow melts.
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From: farr west,
UT
I watched a guy fly the Magic with skis. There wasnt any snow though. It flew great and inspired me to buy one. Havent bought the skis or flown it yet.



