OV-10 Bronco ARF
#1
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From: Waseca,
MN
I finally got started on this Arf that I had purchased over the winter and I have a few comments.
1. The linkages for the ailerons and the elevator are of concern to me. Both need significant force to move the control surfaces. I was only planning on using 1 elevator servo, but I may need to modify that plan. I even lubed up the plastic pushrod with Crisco Shortning befor I slipped it in the pushrod housing. This helped immensely, but it is still pretty stiff IMO. I sure hope the Futaba 3004 BB standard servos are enough.
2. I glued the provided CA hinges into the surfaces, putting 2-3 drops per side, per hinge and let dry. After about 10 minutes, I gave them the pull test, and at least one hinge on each surface came loose. I have never had this happen before, not sure if it is the hinge material, or the wood within. I added a couple more drops to each side, and am still waiting to see if I am confident to trust them. I checked my thin CA on a hinge type (sonic tronics) that I normally use, and it is rock solid, so I'm pretty confident its not my glue.
3. I'm not sure of what type of covering was used on this ARF, but they did do a very nice job with it. Very few wrinkles, and the seams are good and tight. I have a couple spots where it looks like there is debris (dirt?) under the covering, but overall it is very good.
4. My last concern would be transporting this plane. Even though the wing is relatively small (52" I believe) I can tell I'm going to have a tough time getting this thing in the car. With all of the servos, y-harnesses, and extensions, I would really like to keep the wing attached, but I just don't think that is going to work. If I take the wing off, the Nacelles will be unsupported, especially with the gear on each one. I assume I will have to transport it upside down? However, this worries me, because the only thing keeping the two nacelles attached is the Horizontal Stab. I guess I will need to make some sort of cradle for it.
5. I only put about 5 hours into this over the weekend, and the assembly is going very fast. I hope to mount the engines tonight (a nice pair of O.S. .25FXs).
Any comments to anything I've mentioned would be greatly appreciated. I attached most of the pieces and layed it out on the middle of the garage, and this is one sharp looking plane. I can't wait to get it in the air.
TIA
1. The linkages for the ailerons and the elevator are of concern to me. Both need significant force to move the control surfaces. I was only planning on using 1 elevator servo, but I may need to modify that plan. I even lubed up the plastic pushrod with Crisco Shortning befor I slipped it in the pushrod housing. This helped immensely, but it is still pretty stiff IMO. I sure hope the Futaba 3004 BB standard servos are enough.
2. I glued the provided CA hinges into the surfaces, putting 2-3 drops per side, per hinge and let dry. After about 10 minutes, I gave them the pull test, and at least one hinge on each surface came loose. I have never had this happen before, not sure if it is the hinge material, or the wood within. I added a couple more drops to each side, and am still waiting to see if I am confident to trust them. I checked my thin CA on a hinge type (sonic tronics) that I normally use, and it is rock solid, so I'm pretty confident its not my glue.
3. I'm not sure of what type of covering was used on this ARF, but they did do a very nice job with it. Very few wrinkles, and the seams are good and tight. I have a couple spots where it looks like there is debris (dirt?) under the covering, but overall it is very good.
4. My last concern would be transporting this plane. Even though the wing is relatively small (52" I believe) I can tell I'm going to have a tough time getting this thing in the car. With all of the servos, y-harnesses, and extensions, I would really like to keep the wing attached, but I just don't think that is going to work. If I take the wing off, the Nacelles will be unsupported, especially with the gear on each one. I assume I will have to transport it upside down? However, this worries me, because the only thing keeping the two nacelles attached is the Horizontal Stab. I guess I will need to make some sort of cradle for it.
5. I only put about 5 hours into this over the weekend, and the assembly is going very fast. I hope to mount the engines tonight (a nice pair of O.S. .25FXs).
Any comments to anything I've mentioned would be greatly appreciated. I attached most of the pieces and layed it out on the middle of the garage, and this is one sharp looking plane. I can't wait to get it in the air.
TIA
#2
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I'm working on the 81" version and have already came to the opinion that the horizontal stab will have to be removable for transportation.
I'm not into it yet but I am surprised you are having problems with the elevator and rudder linkage. I could be wrong about the smaller bird but the big one uses (2) 60 degree bellcranks for each elevator control. That should elliminate any control binding. My rudder will be direct pushrod control from servo. Of course, the big OV-10 uses separate servos for each rudder and 2 servos for the elevater, 1 from each nacelle. A total of 12 servos are needed. (2) Airlon, (2) Flaps, (2) Rudder, (2) Throttle, (2) Elevator, (1) Nose Gear Steering, (1) Retract (I'm leaning toward fixed landing gear instead of retracts)
I'm not into it yet but I am surprised you are having problems with the elevator and rudder linkage. I could be wrong about the smaller bird but the big one uses (2) 60 degree bellcranks for each elevator control. That should elliminate any control binding. My rudder will be direct pushrod control from servo. Of course, the big OV-10 uses separate servos for each rudder and 2 servos for the elevater, 1 from each nacelle. A total of 12 servos are needed. (2) Airlon, (2) Flaps, (2) Rudder, (2) Throttle, (2) Elevator, (1) Nose Gear Steering, (1) Retract (I'm leaning toward fixed landing gear instead of retracts)
#3
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From: Waseca,
MN
The rudder linkages are fine, its the ailerons and elevator that has me worried.
Theres a pretty big bend where the pushrod housing leaves the fuze and enters the Vertical Stab. All of the linkage is internal within the Stab. I think the big bend is where things are binding.
The wing uses only one aileron servo, with basically one long pushrod tube that runs from one aileron to the other with the servo in the middle. The servo is basically pulling one aileron, and pushing the other. This gives the pushrod two 90 degree bends as it turns towards each aileron.
Wow! 12 servos in the big one, and I thought 7 in the little one (8 if I use a second Elevator servo)was alot.
A removable Stab sounds like a great idea. I will take a look and see if that seems possible with the ARF.
I would love to put retracts in this thing, but I can't see adding the extra weight of the gear, and extra servos. I fear it will be too heavy already.
Theres a pretty big bend where the pushrod housing leaves the fuze and enters the Vertical Stab. All of the linkage is internal within the Stab. I think the big bend is where things are binding.
The wing uses only one aileron servo, with basically one long pushrod tube that runs from one aileron to the other with the servo in the middle. The servo is basically pulling one aileron, and pushing the other. This gives the pushrod two 90 degree bends as it turns towards each aileron.
Wow! 12 servos in the big one, and I thought 7 in the little one (8 if I use a second Elevator servo)was alot.
A removable Stab sounds like a great idea. I will take a look and see if that seems possible with the ARF.
I would love to put retracts in this thing, but I can't see adding the extra weight of the gear, and extra servos. I fear it will be too heavy already.
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From: Columbus, OH
TO daven. I just co mp leted the arf and it really is nice.I did not have any binding on the elevator or aileron linkage like you are having.Also built the kit and did not have any problems.You might try some silicon spray.It is pretty slippery.I have two Magnum 30 4 strks in mine and i am planning on leaving it togethrt for transport as it would be a pain to assemble at the field. Tim.
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From: Ketchikan, AK,
Hello Arfers. It seems like I'm the only one who is not familiar with this arf. Who makes it and where can it be purchased...and how much did you end up paying? Thanks for your help.
Tracy
Tracy
#6
Originally posted by daven
I even lubed up the plastic pushrod with Crisco Shortning befor I slipped it in the pushrod housing.
I even lubed up the plastic pushrod with Crisco Shortning befor I slipped it in the pushrod housing.
I have a lot of weird stuff around the building bench, but Crisco?
I think you need to talk to somebody about this....
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From: Waseca,
MN
The OV-10 Bronco ARF can be seen at:
www.hobbyhangar.com At the bottom of the page it says "Click here" to see ScaleTech Prestige series ARFS
I paid $269 for it.
Crisco shortning is one of my best kept modeling secrets. I primarily use it to lube up torque rods before gluing them into foam core wings on my racing planes. In my opinion it works much better than candle wax, or those brass or plastic sheeths. Just lube up the rods, and glue em in (works for both CA and Epoxy). Once the glue is dry, just crack them loose.
It also makes a good lubricant on pushrods. Just don't get it on anything you ever plane on glueing, because once its on something glue does not want to stick to it.
Besides, I can't remember the last time that the Crisco was needed in the kitchen. I swiped it about 3 years ago and the wife hasn't missed it yet. Plus the small can I have has got to be a life time supply.
www.hobbyhangar.com At the bottom of the page it says "Click here" to see ScaleTech Prestige series ARFS
I paid $269 for it.
Crisco shortning is one of my best kept modeling secrets. I primarily use it to lube up torque rods before gluing them into foam core wings on my racing planes. In my opinion it works much better than candle wax, or those brass or plastic sheeths. Just lube up the rods, and glue em in (works for both CA and Epoxy). Once the glue is dry, just crack them loose.
It also makes a good lubricant on pushrods. Just don't get it on anything you ever plane on glueing, because once its on something glue does not want to stick to it.
Besides, I can't remember the last time that the Crisco was needed in the kitchen. I swiped it about 3 years ago and the wife hasn't missed it yet. Plus the small can I have has got to be a life time supply.
#8
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I have quite a few flights on mine. Two Saito 30's.
I, too, was concerned about the binding on the elevator pushrod, but it turned out to be a non-issue. Don't worry about it. Don't worry about a second elevator servo, either...just not needed. The aileron linkage is no problem, but mine did not bind significantly enough for me to notice.
I leave mine in one piece to transport.
The elevator/stab IS removeable. Two screws on either side. Just drill them accurately, then take the screws out and harden the threads with thin CA.
If you are going to take the nacelles off the wing, you just take out the four screws holding the stab, too. It's no big deal. I would not want to fool with a jig to hold the booms and stab assembled while transporting.
Some tips from an experienced ARF bronco jock:
Make sure the nose strut is long enough to give a slight positive stance, otherwise you have to really pull it into the air with the elevator upon takeoff.
Reinforce the main gear blocks from the inside. Some epoxy, maybe some glass cloth.
Label all the servo connections well.
Measure your car again and see if it cannot fit in one piece, it's sure a lot simpler.
It's a great model, I really enjoy mine.
Those tiny wheels are fine on grass, by the way.
I, too, was concerned about the binding on the elevator pushrod, but it turned out to be a non-issue. Don't worry about it. Don't worry about a second elevator servo, either...just not needed. The aileron linkage is no problem, but mine did not bind significantly enough for me to notice.
I leave mine in one piece to transport.
The elevator/stab IS removeable. Two screws on either side. Just drill them accurately, then take the screws out and harden the threads with thin CA.
If you are going to take the nacelles off the wing, you just take out the four screws holding the stab, too. It's no big deal. I would not want to fool with a jig to hold the booms and stab assembled while transporting.
Some tips from an experienced ARF bronco jock:
Make sure the nose strut is long enough to give a slight positive stance, otherwise you have to really pull it into the air with the elevator upon takeoff.
Reinforce the main gear blocks from the inside. Some epoxy, maybe some glass cloth.
Label all the servo connections well.
Measure your car again and see if it cannot fit in one piece, it's sure a lot simpler.
It's a great model, I really enjoy mine.
Those tiny wheels are fine on grass, by the way.
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From: Urbandale,
IA
Anyboby got the retracts for this bird yet??....suppose to be available in April....Have the ARF kit myself...but am not building it until the retractrs are available...Maybe spring air retracts might work........
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From: Four Oaks,
NC
A few months ago someone metioned that the 80 inch version may be available in the near future. Anyone heard anything about that lately? That's the one I would like to have when and if it becomes a reality.
Sam
Sam
#13
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Originally posted by Carlos Murphy
Your working on the 81" version? Is it a ARF or the kit?
Your working on the 81" version? Is it a ARF or the kit?
There is a smaller version available in both an ARF and kit. I have the kit and will probably work that before continuing with the 81".
Both versions are Uravich designs.
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From: OR
Could somebody post some pictures of the arf version. The hobby hanger site only shows one picture. I do not understand why they provide so little info on this kit. It's is amazing that they sell any.
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From: Houston,
TX
how do they fly ? how is behavior if you have a flame out on one engine ? Is a gyro on the rudder needed ? Is this bird OK for single engine experienced pilots, but newbies for twins ?
Would like to hear more about the performance of this ARF and engine choices.
Thanks
Would like to hear more about the performance of this ARF and engine choices.
Thanks
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From: Waseca,
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My Bronco now has about 10 flights on it, and it flies very well.
I needed to put a larger wheel on the nose to get the nose up in the air a little. With the stock setup, the nose sits slightly down, and the plane didn't want to take off.
I am using two O.S. .25Fxs with APC 9x6 props. This seems like a great combo, you just need to keep them a bit richer than what I am use to running. We clocked my Bronco on radar at 84 mph in the straight and level and 94 mph out of a dive. The .25s' are plenty of power for this plane.
I had an engine out on the first flight (I set the needles a little to lean). The plane did a wing over, and started into a spin. I immediately cut throttle to idle and hit the throttle kill switch. I was able to pull it out, and dead stick into the bean field with absolutely no damage (thankfully).
I will say the plane gets noticed, and is definately unique to our field. The sound and profile in the air, are just awesome. I would recommend this arf to anyone wanting to try a twin. My only complaints with the ARF are the cheap plastic cowls, and questionable linkages. The linkages appear to be working, but are just not as smooth as I like.
I needed to put a larger wheel on the nose to get the nose up in the air a little. With the stock setup, the nose sits slightly down, and the plane didn't want to take off.
I am using two O.S. .25Fxs with APC 9x6 props. This seems like a great combo, you just need to keep them a bit richer than what I am use to running. We clocked my Bronco on radar at 84 mph in the straight and level and 94 mph out of a dive. The .25s' are plenty of power for this plane.
I had an engine out on the first flight (I set the needles a little to lean). The plane did a wing over, and started into a spin. I immediately cut throttle to idle and hit the throttle kill switch. I was able to pull it out, and dead stick into the bean field with absolutely no damage (thankfully).
I will say the plane gets noticed, and is definately unique to our field. The sound and profile in the air, are just awesome. I would recommend this arf to anyone wanting to try a twin. My only complaints with the ARF are the cheap plastic cowls, and questionable linkages. The linkages appear to be working, but are just not as smooth as I like.



