just wanted to know is anyone flying this? what engine are you using?
i know it says .60 to .75 two stroke or .91fs. also any assembly tips would be good?
thanks
curly

There is a review of this model here in the RCU Magazine, or whatever they call it. The reviewer spoke with Kangke and was recommended to use a .91 two-stroke. He used a TigerShark engine (also a Kangke product). I have the ARF in its box, and it's next on my bench schedule. I am thinking nothing smaller than an ASP 1.08 which I happen to have hanging around, but leaning toward a TT 1.20 Pro which I also have available. If I were going to buy a new engine for this plane, it would probably be the new SuperTigre 2300 (1.4 cu in). This would be ample power at reasonable cost.

I used a Magnum .91 XLS in another Kangke product, their CAP 232 Sport (nominally a 60 size). The Extra is considerably heavier (like a pound or two) than the C232S, and presents a lot more profile drag (big fat fuselage). I did have very good vertical performance, close to unlimited, with the 91 2-stroke on the lighter plane, and I'm sure the Extra would fly OK (non-extreme aerobatics) with the same engine. However, I watched with great pleasure a GP "40 size" Extra ARF this summer, powered with a 1.20 two stroke, flying in Intermediate pattern competition. The plane carried the weight of the engine with no problem, and of course it was "over-powered," but I like all the power I can get, as long as the plane carries the weight OK.

I am not a hoverer, but I do like big verticals with no pooping out. I suppose you could get this Extra to hover on a 91 two stroke with a 15x6 prop, but I still feel it would be nothing better than OK power. I would be looking for 15x8 to 15x10 with 8 to 9000 rpm to make me happy.

You can get a few building tips from the review mentioned above, but I hope some others will report on what has worked well for them. One thing I routinely do is replace the landing gear tee-nuts and screws with 1/4" nylon bolts threaded into the landing gear mount plate backed up with an extra 1/4" thick piece of aircraft ply epoxied on the inside. I still have the occasional hard landing, and I would much rather pop a nylon bolt head than repair a torn out landing gear plate. I like nylon bolts for mounting the wings as well--same trick, knock out the installed tee-nuts and tap the holes with a 1/4-20 tap.

I think this is a heck of a good model for the money, nice looking fuselage especially, and I'm looking forward to flying it hard this summer.

sounds like a plan. os.91fx is what i would like to put in it. i wonder what size fuel tank will fit or need?
also i guess standard bb servos should do the trick?
thanks
curly

test. I wrote a reply but it wouldn't go through. Try again.

The supplied tank is fine, 360 cc, 12+ oz. My Magnum 91 goes 15 min + on 12 oz.

With 91 FX power, standard servos will be OK on ailerons & elevators, but I would go for high torque (70 oz.in. or better) on rudder because of the wide chord, the stress of holding knife edge and the occasional beating from the tailwheel connection.

I would use wheels (not arms) for servo output to ailerons & elevators. Using the holes spaced @ 5/16" from the servo hub (this spacing available on both Futaba & Hitec wheels), I calculate for the recommended throws a moment arm of 1" on aileron horns, 1-1/4" on the elevator horns, and a ratio for pull/pull rudder of 2/5 between spacing on servo output connections and rudder horn connections--so 1" spacing between servo connections and 2-1/2" spacing on rudder horn connections. This would apply with maximum travel settings on the TX for all control surface servos (+/- 45* rotation or more). I like Rocket City horns, if you can find them, or the 6-32 machine screw horns described on the Central Hobbies website Tech Tips page--a bit of work, but a lot better than plastic horns fastened with screws that never line up straight.

These throws will look like not nearly enough to the sport flyer's eye. They are definitely enough for controllable rolls and loops, but conservative enough to safeguard against unintended snaps.

If you can spare a few extra bucks for coreless servos, the Tower price of $30 for Futaba 9001 is an excellent value. You will like how coreless servos fly, and on a nice plane like this the difference is defiinitely worth it.

thanks again for the input it should be a fun spring and summer,fall.
still too cold me. can'nt wait for spring!