bignasdy

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...21/Qo38749.jpg
heres the inside look, and you can see the bolt hole and plate.

Sessholvlaru

Sweet...thanks for the links. I got mine off of eBay and it did not come with the upgraded tail...I glued them on good and poured some thin CA in the tail halves...I can't get the tails to break using hand pressure, but I think I might cut off the bottom sheeting and reinforce it. Since I put an OS 160FX in it, it couldn't hurt. I will also use the 1/4-20 nylon bolt trick on the wing halves. Thanks again and happy landings.

jfetter

Sess,

A better fix for the tailfeathers is to drill a 1/4" hole on the underside of each stab (about 1/2" from the fuse, in the middle of the stab front-to-back) and pour in some 30-minute epoxy that's been mixed in a cup for 5 minutes (nice and hot and runny). This will in effect glue the upper sheeting to the 2 carbon tubes and the top of the ribs and pretty much make the assembly rock solid. I had my left stab tear off in flight (perhaps the fourth flight, barely more than half-throttle so I know from experience).

As for the wings, no problems there, I do not have any issues with the stock mounting and in-flight retention. There are litterally no forces pulling the wings apart, the stock system works fine...

Jack

Sessholvlaru

Thanks...I like that idea better than having to cut off the sheeting, peel it off all careful like, repair it and then cover it again. I think I will try that one. Thanks for the idea. I will post its maiden voyage as soon as it is not 20 degrees outside.

Sessholvlaru

Oh yeah...how much epoxy did you use? For weights sake, filling up the entire tail is not a good idea. Throwing some rubbing alcohol in the mix will make it super runny...

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

may I ask how much you paid for it?

thanx,
V.

Sessholvlaru

I think it was around $250 shipped.

bignasdy

the stock wingmount system sux. Go ahead and do nothin and watch the wings separate , when ya drop the gear to land, cause the stupid little moronic screw that goes into a stupid little hole in a carbon fibre rod,(sheeesh) has come out.
It will no doubt.
Ask anyone that posted early in this thread.
Do not add a bunch of epoxy to the tail. Weight does not equal strength. The thin c.a. is always the better alteritive to epoxy.
39 years experience ( and over 100 Kit and scratch builds combined) speaking to ya budd, good luck.
d

Sessholvlaru

I do plan on doing the wing mod as soon as I pick up some 1/4-20 nylons with the hand screw head. It has been 30 degrees with 20 mph winds here in Jersey for the past two weeks and does not seem to want to let up. Finally paying for those 60 degree December days? Maybe so... Anyway, until the weather improves, no Bear just yet. I will be sure to capture whatever happens on the first flight on tape.

bignasdy

I gotta get a digital vid........
The plane looks so nice in the air, fast or slow.
And thanx....for the cold arse weather ya sent me......puttin off my p51 maiden....LOL
I was thinkin......back in the day, I woulda went out there and froze my butt off with that airplane all day. have pics to confirm ,"young and dumb", or "ambitious and motivated"! awaitong you vid.
Stay warm.
d

Easystern

Sessholvlaru............

i wish u luck for the first maiden flight , do all the mods and use bignasdy's instruction on elevater trows and use his advice.

Bignasdy........

your bear is one of the best here in this tread with all the mods,
i wish mine where almost ready as yours with all that modding.

for me it's one of the nicest planes in that size !! and it looks mean and agressiv on the high retracts at the ground with a big 3 blade prop and if you see this fat baby roaring 10 feet high over the runway at full trottle with 120 to 130 mph your heardbeet will go up twice as normal.

ONLY SPEEDFREAKS WILL FEEL THIS !!
all other..... go and play with your barby dolls
this racer is not for Sissy's !!

jfetter

No! You are right, I didn't fill up the tail. I used about 2 1/2 tsp (didn't have mixing cups that measured in Fl oz at the time) in each stab. Also, I wouldn't make it more runny with rubbing alcohol, epoxy (when it's in mid reaction and HOT) is almost as runny as pancake syrup, plenty to get it in the right places. If it's too runny, it will not allow it to build up and get on the tubes which is the critical part (there is a slight gap from the tube to the sheeting). Needless to say leave the Bear upside down until cured, you'll feel the heat buildup on the outside of the upper sheeting as well.

You can also try a slight variation and that is only do one at a time and then after you pour it in, turn the model 90 degrees to allow the epoxy to run to the root of the stab (in effect gluing the root rib to the carbon tubes at the same time as both sheeting surfaces). Either way I beleive you'll be fine, mine is rock solid now and I stopped worrying about failure...

Jack

jfetter

Big,

I can tell you the stock mounting works from experience and yes, you are correct, the screw in the tube alone isn't enough, it needs the wood block glued in the tube to get a good (and solid) thread seat. Also, I completely dissagree regarding the epoxy, this fix is an excellet way to get superior strength without having to dissassemble the tail and CA is not capable of the overall stengh of this fix because it can't build up enough to have a single glue-joint that encompasses the rib, both tubes and both sheeting surfaces. The weight is a consideration of course but the more important part is the fix, which (IMO) offsets the slight weight addition...

Jack

babenson

Hi all
Not having much luck anywhere else, so I thought I would try here. I just finished the Thunder Tiger September Fury. Put an OS 1.20 AX on it along with Robart retracts.

my hope is that some of you may also have one of the birds and can offer me some advice. I am particularly looking for info on the cg. it states 95 mm from the leading edge, but when you measure that out on the plane, it sits right on the wheel well. I am not sure how to get around this, but at that measurement, I am going to need a ton of weight to get her to balance. I thought that the bigger engine would offset some of this, but it still is going to need some serious weight .....does the Rare Bear have this issue as well?


Any GC help would be great, particularly on how to get around the issue with the cg right on the wheel wells. Can it be balanced upside down?

thanks all,

-brandon

Sessholvlaru

Hello. You are supposed to balance it upside down, by the way. I have an 160FX in my Rare Bear and with the battery in the suggested location, it is near spot on. Try moving anything that can be moved closer to the front. Always the first thing to try before using lead.

babenson

It does not say in the instruction to balance upside down??? but then it doesn't say to do it right side up either...

I have only just discovered this thread and learned a lot.

To be honest, I am scared to death of this thing...it took me two months to complete it (got a two year old at home). Do you know if TT fixed all the issues with the RB on the September Fury? Stab issues?

Also, any pixs out there of the sept fury that anyone can share with me? Inside and out would be great and any vids helpful.

Sessholvlaru

How much flying experience do you have? The September Fury, like the Bear, is far from a trainer. You need some more confidence...being scared of your model lessens your chances for success....or at least it does in my mind. As far as the stab problems go, I do not know that. My Bear came with the old stabs, and I poured a bunch of thin CA in each half, then a little bit of epoxy just for S&G's. They are like rocks now. FYI, you usually always balace a low wing aircraft upside down. Mid wings can go either way, and high wings and biplanes are almost always balanced right side up. It is just easier this way, but feasable the other way. There are other posts regarded the September Fury here, but I suppose you have not found your aswers there. Since this is a Rare Bear thread, I don't think anyone here has the Fury. Here is a link I found to an electric converted SF though: http://youtube.com/watch?v=4JLs9XW08i0 This may or may not help you. Good luck!

babenson

THanks. I have been flying now "seriously" for about 7 years, but into RC for much longer.

Here is the thing...I have built around 20 - 25 ARF's, but this seemes like a whole new animal. Absolute polar opposite in terms of compexity.

All my ARFs to date have been 60 or smaller, most in the 46 range. This is a .90 but I put a 1.20 on it. I am scared because not only is it the most complex plane i have built, but I am sitting at about 1300.00 !! (wife doesn;t know that thought )

Not to question you, because obviously you have experience, but are you 100% positive on balancing upside down?

Thanks agian for all and any help.

-Brandon

Dave G

My Feedback: (1)

Brandon, I'll jump in here to offer some peace of mind.

It is perfectly acceptable to balance a low wing airplane upside down. It's called pendulum effect. It's much easier to balance an item with it's mass below the pivot point than above it.

You can even use this method to balance the model laterally. By resting the model on the tip of the fin, lift the model by the crankshaft and see which wing (or side of the plane) is heavier. Add weight to the other side.

I've been milking this thread for info and improvments for well over a year. Generally, it's just modelers passing on their experience. I just thought, hearing a second "voice" would be reassuring.

Good Luck!

babenson

Great, I am heading to the garage now to finish the plane and balance.

Another ? This is a reno racer. Any thoughts to how fast this plane may be with the 1.20 AX on it? I bought it for two reasons, first I love the looks of the plane, and second I want flat out stupid speed for the coming summer season...

Awesome guys thanks so much.

Todd Jackson

My Feedback: (6)

Anyone have pics of there tailwheel retrack installation have made all the other mods but looking to change this to.

Thanks Todd

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

If you want flat out stupid speed, try a world models 46 sized mustang with a ys110 in it. that will get you 135-140mph and they will not self destruct unless you have a mid-air:

http://www.nanoplanes.net/warbirds-midair-collision.wmv

all the planes here are 46 sized warbirds doing 135-140mph.

i had a world models 60 size mustang and it did about 125 with a ys140. i doubt the TT rare bear will do much more than 125 with a 120ax in it. with an os160, maybe 130.

babenson

HUH!!! so your saying that the TT Rare Bear and the TT September Fury are going to self destruct on me in mid air?

babenson

The TT Rare Bear is not a .46 size aircraft????? nor is the TT September Fury????????

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

indeed...

but if he wanted a reno racer AND "flat out stupid speed"

there are 3 better choices that ARE faster (with ys110 or jett):

1. world models dago red
2. cermark alley cat
3. kyosho kelly F1

a 4'th item is the KMP reno racer, critical mass, but the actual plane no longer runs in the reno races. the model can be built fast just like the 3 above items.

all three are reno racers and the kyosho may be in the 150mph class.

the rare bear looks great on the outside - great for sales - but not speed