Hi guys,

Im thinking about buying the World models GS P-51 Mustang. What is this kit like. Is it good quality, does it go together well, does it fly good. And I also want to make some modifications too it. Robart Suspension main gear, move the tail wheel to the scale position and make scale Main Gear Doors, Scale cockpit, droptanks, guns and so on. Can all this be done? If so what robart retracts would you use for this model. I want the scale suspension ones.

But I would like some info on the kit. If there are any reviews of it around.

Thanks for any help guys

Rossco

Hay Rossco;

It's a great flying P-51, maybe one of the better ones out there. It's a stand off scale, and for a fighter, a real floater on landing. I've seen everything from .36 to .68's in the front end with a good .46 your best bet. I would beef up the landing gear area with a good coat of thin epoxy...same with the fuel tank area. I would also suggest you but a good Du-Bro fuel tank in the model, and junk the one in the kit. As to moving the tail wheel forward to the scale area, I would suggest you fly it first, for this is going to be a little work for you. It is a very good flying model. I had a Fox .50 in mine...and I had mine for over a year with many, many flinghts on the airframe. Your going to have ball with the model.

Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui

i will be getting one because of the quality and the way the thing flys is real good.
Some one i know who happenes to be the state aerobatic champion has one and says it is a very stable model and performs aerobatics to very good standards.

Hmm a .46 in a plane that the specs call for a 1.6 two cycle ?...
That ought to be interesting..
A friend of mine has the Miss America with a 1.6 OS in it. It appears to be of the usualy
WM excellent quality and a great flyer..

yeah i know.........a .46? I was thinking more of the 4-5 HP range But thanks for your post anyway. Would you recommend putting in a 1.80 Moki. Thats what I am thinking about or do u think I should go with a petrol engine.

Thanks

Rossco

I have the Miss America. Installed a retract tailwheel in the scale location and rounded the bottom of the fues between the scoop and rudder post. There is a vertical bulkhead to mount the tailwheel on. I also used a elevator wire joiner to hide the linkage. The first Robart tailwheel broke, used a hobbico retract nosewheel. I first had a YS120 with a 16/8 3bladed prop. Then a Magnum 180. I looked at a couple of gas engines but settled on a OS160 which it has now. I have the revised retracts WM gave me at no charge. the weakest part is the gear mount so fix it before it cracks.

thnks man, would you be able to post some photos of your mustang here so i can see them. And get some close ups on the tail wheel . So how does the plane fly? Is it stable etc. I want to know some detail before spending $2000aus.

Thanks again man for your post

I know you guys are poking fun here with the .46 in the GS but have you ever looked at the front cover of the directions for the GS P-51. It calls for a .91-1.40. Can anybody see a .91 pulling this around? I have a BGX 3500 in mine.

It flys like a trainer, has no bad habits and is well built. The hangar 9 and the Top Flight both look closer to scale, I have looked at both but don't own. Because of my job I am on the road at present. I will post when I get home. Bob

I have this model and have to give it a solid 8 rating out of 10. I think you are asking about the Giant scale version with 80" Ws. I have a 160 FX in mine and it flies more like an aerobatic airplane than a war bird. Mine weighs about 17 lbs. As already stated, no bad habits, but don't want to get too slow on final. She will drop a wing on you if not careful. I don't like the manual retracts and will eventually go with Robarts air retracts. The manual wire gear looks like Egret legs and just doesn't match the quality of the airplane at all. They get a bit wobbly as they wear a bit, and at times look like they are going to collapse, but haven't to date. The model construction is a 10 and it assembles very easily. Parts all fit nicely and the covering is very well done. I used epoxy to glue the wing halves together and then also used epoxy on the horizontal stab. Just didn't like the idea of two bolts holding the stab in place. The wheel wells are a bit small so I used smaller wheels to avoid the potential for any binding if the wire gear should become even slightly bent. This would not be good with the stock sized wheels. The cowling comes in three sections and I probably spent the most time on this. Just have to grind and fit until it's right. Overall a very nice model and WM did a nice job, but for a few things that could be changed.

thx for your help guys, that has really boosted my confidence in the kit. I think i will go ahead and buy the Miss America Sceme. I will be putting in a MOKI 1.80, a bisson piits stylr muffler, Robart Scale Mustang Air operated retracts, move the tail wheel to the scale position and not crash it. But it should be good. Ive never had a plane this big before. I will post pictures and details about when I have completed it.

Thanks again guys for your help

Legends...........

Rossco

I have the Ridge Runner with a Saito 180 and on-board glow.
I installed a Robart retractable tail wheel which is operated by two servos mounted in the factory servo tray's intended for the tail servos. The tail servos are mounted IN the tail, a elevator and rudder servo on one side under the stab and the other elevator servo on the other side.
The landing gear is Spring Air 403 with olio struts. The installation was easy, the plastic wheel wells needs to be tossed and the opening sheeted and painted olive drab, looks great. The air tank and fill fitting are mounted in the radiator scoop while the valve and actuating servo are mounted in the wing landing gear servo pockets.
The 2700 mil NMH battery, c-cell OBG battery, OBG and throttle servos are mounted under the chin cowl.
There is a hatch on the right side of the fuse two inches below the canopy hiding the switch, charge jack and Voltwatch.
The cockpit was easy because the area in which the pilot sits is already defined. Simply remove the balsa foreward of the cross brace under the cockpit floor which is in the perfict position for the pilot, the area behind it is now the radio shelf.
I made my own dash from parts of other planes and installed a cut-down Top Flite GS cockpit kit which is a little too big but still looks great and to top it all off I made a scale seat with armored back rest, a head rest made from a fuel tank stopper cover and installed a Blue Box Toy's "Doc Miller" Pilot and he is sitting on his parachute.
Flying this plane with 14 servos and a Y-harness in every channel has made me nervous so I'm installing a I4C Isolator and a 6-volt battery for the servos.
Sorry, can't show you any pictures right now because it's packed away for my move to Nevada next month, I've just taken early
retirement.... anyway, this is a very easy plane to modify.
Good luck.

how do u mount the retractable wheel inside the fuz? Do u have to bolt it to a strut on the inside?

yoi could do something better with a Moki 1.80.

The method I used (the hard way) was to build a removable tail wheel assembly. I made a 1/8th ply plate 6 1/2" X 3" X 1 3/4", cut a hole in it 6 5/16" by 1 3/4" X 1 11/16". I then drilled holes around it for mounting with counter sunk screws that screwed into inner Ny-rod which is thick CA'ed onto the fuse botom for a flush fit.
I mounted a bulkhead reinforced with gussets on this plate to mount the Robart tail wheel and after the assembly is installed in the fuse simply cover with Ultra Coat. The wheel is steered by cables and retracted and extened with a push rod, both of these servos are in the factory tray's intended for the tail servos.
Good luck.

Carlos,

I dont really understand how u made the tail wheel assembly But would it be possible to post a photo of it here so i can get a better idea of what u are saying. I would really appreciate that. Also i have a .46 size mustang that im rebuilding. It was ARF, but now it is just the shell (no covering). I want to put the retractable tail wheel in that. How would u do this because the fuz is already sheeted in balsa. Where would i make the cut? How could i make it really strong

Thanks man

Rossco

Rossco,
Do you HAVE the Robart tail wheel for the GS P-51? If you do, it will be much easier to visualize the installation .
You'll need the big gear assembly with the single leg for the GS P-51 and the small plastic gear assembly for the 40 size plane.
For the GS you will need a hole 6 5/16" long, 1 3/4" wide at the front and 1 11/16" wide at the rear of the hole for the gear to go through when in operation. The front of this hole "opening" is 1 7/16" back from the rear mounting hole for the radiator scoop.
The easy way is to cut two 1/2" square lengths of hard wood to fit inside the fuse and after you have these two "mounts" pre-fitted you can then mount them to the tail wheel and install as an assembly.
I did this with the push-rod and steering cables already attached TO the tail wheel.
Go to the www.robart.com to see what you need and if you use a air operated tail wheel the installation will me easier still.
Sorry, no pics, everything is packed away for my move to Nevada.
Chuck

hey thx man its a bit clearer now but...i dont know i will try and figure it out. I think I will do it to the smaller P-51 first just in case a botch it up. But if all goes well I will try it in the GS. What size retract gear do u think I should get.

So do u mean that u mount the ply in side the fuz and then secure the tailwheel to it.......i dont know i cant rwally see an image in my head.

But thx for your help man i really appreciate it. If all goes well i will post the photos here.

Ok Later

Rossco