World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
07-12-2002, 11:30 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
I am assembling a World Models Super Stunt 60. The book shows a side view of the mount and shows 136mm from the back side of the prop to the back of the engine mount. Are they taking into account the thickness of the nosegear mounting block, or is it 136mm to the firewall? It's only 3mm, would it make much difference?
07-13-2002, 01:48 AM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
I've got one waiting to be assembled, but I just glanced at the manual.
I see what you mean, not clear, is it?
I believe they took into consideration the width of the gear blocks that are behind the motor mount....but..
I would make the engine mounting holes the last thing I did. Assemble the mount with the gear support and drop in the engine. Adjust the engine until the back of the spinner backplate clears the tip of the fuse cheeks by 1/8 to 1/4 inch and mark/measure the engine position on the mount.
I'll bet it is 5.40 inches. If not, use your manual clearance mark to drill the motor mount holes.
Let us know, I'll be doing the same thing in a few weeks.
I see what you mean, not clear, is it?
I believe they took into consideration the width of the gear blocks that are behind the motor mount....but..
I would make the engine mounting holes the last thing I did. Assemble the mount with the gear support and drop in the engine. Adjust the engine until the back of the spinner backplate clears the tip of the fuse cheeks by 1/8 to 1/4 inch and mark/measure the engine position on the mount.
I'll bet it is 5.40 inches. If not, use your manual clearance mark to drill the motor mount holes.
Let us know, I'll be doing the same thing in a few weeks.
07-13-2002, 02:02 AM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
Im going to drill it at 136mm and hope they took into account the nosegear hardware. Im not sure how much 3mm willl make. I guess I'll find out.
07-13-2002, 08:05 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
I guess I should have waited. I got an email from Airborne Models today. They said the measurement is from the firewall. I guess I should have added the thickness of the nosegear mount.
I wonder how much those 3 mm will affect it's flight.
I wonder how much those 3 mm will affect it's flight.
07-13-2002, 08:32 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
Sorry, F_S, my guess was wrong, too.
It shouldn't affect the flying characteristics, I believe it is just clearance for the motor hub.
3mm is nothing, don't worry.
Worst-to-worst you could always round the cheeks and re-cover that little area. Servos or batteries ahead an inch would tale care of the balance.
Have you done the pull-pull system yet? It will be my first and I am a little apprehensive.
It shouldn't affect the flying characteristics, I believe it is just clearance for the motor hub.
3mm is nothing, don't worry.
Worst-to-worst you could always round the cheeks and re-cover that little area. Servos or batteries ahead an inch would tale care of the balance.
Have you done the pull-pull system yet? It will be my first and I am a little apprehensive.
07-13-2002, 08:55 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
This is my first ARF since the early 80s so it's new to me. I wish the World models instructions were a bit clearer. Like how much CA do you put on the hinges..... Stuff like that. I will figure it out.. It would be nice if they had more info.
07-13-2002, 09:15 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
Yes, I know, the manual kinda scared me. too.
I'm back from the early 90's, so it's new to me, too.
On the hinges, I always do a few additional things...
Drill a hole in the middle of the hinge slot to promote the CA to wick.
Coat the very middle of the hinge itself with a crayon (both sides) so the CA doesn't bunch and dry there.
Coat the surrounding surfaces with a thin coat of petroleum jelly being careful to not get it on the hinge or in the slot.(Keeps excess off)
Put one or two t-pins in the very middle of the hinge. This keeps the hinges centered and butt to them for your nominal spacing.
Three drops a side is generally fine. As long as it displaces into the hole that you drilled. When it stops, or puddles, that's enough.
I always use the Great Planes (or is it Sig?) hinges that come in two long, wide strips that you cut to size yourself. I don't know if that is necessary, but they have never failed me.
Let us know how it's progressing, I'm learning from this, too!
I'm back from the early 90's, so it's new to me, too.
On the hinges, I always do a few additional things...
Drill a hole in the middle of the hinge slot to promote the CA to wick.
Coat the very middle of the hinge itself with a crayon (both sides) so the CA doesn't bunch and dry there.
Coat the surrounding surfaces with a thin coat of petroleum jelly being careful to not get it on the hinge or in the slot.(Keeps excess off)
Put one or two t-pins in the very middle of the hinge. This keeps the hinges centered and butt to them for your nominal spacing.
Three drops a side is generally fine. As long as it displaces into the hole that you drilled. When it stops, or puddles, that's enough.
I always use the Great Planes (or is it Sig?) hinges that come in two long, wide strips that you cut to size yourself. I don't know if that is necessary, but they have never failed me.
Let us know how it's progressing, I'm learning from this, too!
07-13-2002, 09:22 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
Do you place the hinge where you want it then just put the CA and let it wick in. I had thought thats the way to do it. I like the crayon idea. Does it keep the CA out of the hinge at that point?
07-13-2002, 10:08 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
1. Find the middle of the hinges.
2. Paint a crayon line on both sides at that middle line.
3. Put in two t-pins along that center line and slip in the hinges into the slots you (or they) created in both surfaces and mate the other assembly to it. This will assure equal hinges on both sides and provide the spacing between the two assemblies (aileron, rudder, elevator).
4. Butt the two assemblies up flush with the t-pins and check the throw, it should be fine.
5. With the assemblies somewhat flexed but firm against the t-pins, drip in fresh CA into both sides, wait a few minutes, turn over and repeat. If it puddles at the hole you drilled--stop, 3-4 drops a side should be plenty. (Don't forget the petroleum jelly around the mating surfaces and don't forget the drill the hole!). Pull the t-pins, wipe the area well and you're done.
The crayon line repels CA. I've found most of my hinge failures were because I put too much CA on the hinges and it puddled on the center causing crystals that cut the hinge in a short time. The crayon prevents this.
We had a thread about this very same thing a few months ago and the above was accepted as the proper way to install CA hinges so they won't fail.
Ask away if your not sure...it's kinda a one-shot deal so you want to do it right.
2. Paint a crayon line on both sides at that middle line.
3. Put in two t-pins along that center line and slip in the hinges into the slots you (or they) created in both surfaces and mate the other assembly to it. This will assure equal hinges on both sides and provide the spacing between the two assemblies (aileron, rudder, elevator).
4. Butt the two assemblies up flush with the t-pins and check the throw, it should be fine.
5. With the assemblies somewhat flexed but firm against the t-pins, drip in fresh CA into both sides, wait a few minutes, turn over and repeat. If it puddles at the hole you drilled--stop, 3-4 drops a side should be plenty. (Don't forget the petroleum jelly around the mating surfaces and don't forget the drill the hole!). Pull the t-pins, wipe the area well and you're done.
The crayon line repels CA. I've found most of my hinge failures were because I put too much CA on the hinges and it puddled on the center causing crystals that cut the hinge in a short time. The crayon prevents this.
We had a thread about this very same thing a few months ago and the above was accepted as the proper way to install CA hinges so they won't fail.
Ask away if your not sure...it's kinda a one-shot deal so you want to do it right.
07-14-2002, 05:34 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
About the 136mm spacing, I'm pretty sure it's meant to align the prop hub along the thust line down the center of the fuselage. The firewall has the proper right- and down-thrust built in and the motor mount holes are offset to take that into account.
The 136mm isn't critical at all, since you can typically wiggle the engine sideways a little before you tighten the bolts down anyway. In fact, I'm more worried about my Magnum 1.20FS being mounted too far forward for balancing than I am about that 136mm. In any case, I can always move the motor mount beams sideways to compensate for any thrustline deviation.
I agree about the "man(ual) of few words", but if you'ver put together 1 or 2 ARFs already, this stuff becomes pretty much self-explanatory.
I'll be done with ARF-bashing the Hobbistar 60, so it looks like my SS60 is finally gonna have its turn on the building table. So far, I've only glassed the front and backside of the firewall and trial mounted a couple of engine choices.
Good luck with yours.
The 136mm isn't critical at all, since you can typically wiggle the engine sideways a little before you tighten the bolts down anyway. In fact, I'm more worried about my Magnum 1.20FS being mounted too far forward for balancing than I am about that 136mm. In any case, I can always move the motor mount beams sideways to compensate for any thrustline deviation.
I agree about the "man(ual) of few words", but if you'ver put together 1 or 2 ARFs already, this stuff becomes pretty much self-explanatory.
I'll be done with ARF-bashing the Hobbistar 60, so it looks like my SS60 is finally gonna have its turn on the building table. So far, I've only glassed the front and backside of the firewall and trial mounted a couple of engine choices.
Good luck with yours.
07-14-2002, 06:08 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
Thanks It looks like it should be 133 from end of mount. If you add the 3mm for the nosegear bracket. Im not sure if I should bother and fiberglass my fuel compartment or not. When I flew before my planes never lasted long enough for the fuel to soak in, "If yo know what I mean?
07-14-2002, 09:15 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
F-S, I know what you mean!
I always pretend that my planes will be willed to my next-of-kin, so I invest the time. I fuel-proof the fuel tank area and the engine compartment. I normally just use a few coats of dope.
I think of it as a confidence builder.....
...This plane WILL survive until the wheels fall off!
LOL
I always pretend that my planes will be willed to my next-of-kin, so I invest the time. I fuel-proof the fuel tank area and the engine compartment. I normally just use a few coats of dope.
I think of it as a confidence builder.....
...This plane WILL survive until the wheels fall off!
LOL
07-16-2002, 02:01 PM
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World Models Super Stunt 60 Engine Mounting?
I fiberglassed the firewall mostly because I'll be somewhat overpowering it with a 1.20 4stroke or maybe a 1.08 2stroke. Besides, it doesn't take me any longer to do the epoxy & fiberglass than other means of fuel-proofing.
I took a look at the fuselage this past weekend, I am going to have to lower the fuel tank since I'll be mounting the engine inverted. Shouldn't be too difficult. I was going to put a larger (16 Oz.) tank in there anyway. I'll start off by fitting a hatch cover on the bottom like I did with my SS40 to make working in the tank compartment easier.
I took a look at the fuselage this past weekend, I am going to have to lower the fuel tank since I'll be mounting the engine inverted. Shouldn't be too difficult. I was going to put a larger (16 Oz.) tank in there anyway. I'll start off by fitting a hatch cover on the bottom like I did with my SS40 to make working in the tank compartment easier.
