Model Tech Simply Magic -- Engine Installation++??
#1
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I just started assembling my Model Tech Simply Magic.
It appears some of the construction steps used to be done by the assembler because I have found several steps in the assembly manual that were already done. It also appears that some of these steps have actually made it more difficult to continue with the assembly instructions.
Specifically, the one that really has caused me a problem is the hole drilled in the firewall for the throttle pushrod. When I followed the measurements for installing the engine I ended up with a engine mount hole that would have been directly adjacent to the throttle pushrod hole. Without giving it much thought I, instead moved the engine mount to the center of the firewall. This put my mount just below the throttle pushrod hole. BTW, the pre-drilled throttle pushrod hole is perfectly placed for my OS SX-50 when engine is mounted straight up.
This decision did not create a problem until it was time to mount the cowl. Guess what, the cowl will have to be shelved -- not going to work without remounting the engine. That's OK, not worried about the looks and my OS 50-SX is more than capable of compensating for the increased drag from not having the cowl.
It appears some of the construction steps used to be done by the assembler because I have found several steps in the assembly manual that were already done. It also appears that some of these steps have actually made it more difficult to continue with the assembly instructions.
Specifically, the one that really has caused me a problem is the hole drilled in the firewall for the throttle pushrod. When I followed the measurements for installing the engine I ended up with a engine mount hole that would have been directly adjacent to the throttle pushrod hole. Without giving it much thought I, instead moved the engine mount to the center of the firewall. This put my mount just below the throttle pushrod hole. BTW, the pre-drilled throttle pushrod hole is perfectly placed for my OS SX-50 when engine is mounted straight up.
This decision did not create a problem until it was time to mount the cowl. Guess what, the cowl will have to be shelved -- not going to work without remounting the engine. That's OK, not worried about the looks and my OS 50-SX is more than capable of compensating for the increased drag from not having the cowl.
#2
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From: Royse City,
TX
I also experienced the same problem!! I'm still not sure why this hole was pre-drilled. This step should have been left for us to perform based on the engine type and orientation (up-right or inverted). It sounds like it is too late for you, but here is what I did for those that may be in the process of assembling their Simply Magic. I plugged the hole with a hardwood dowel. This is an inexpensive cure and allowed me to install the engine mounts as noted in the instruction manual.
Items needed:
1. Hardwood dowel
2. 30 minute epoxy
3. Denatured alcohol (to remove excess epoxy)
4. Xacto saw (to cut hardwood dowel
5. Sandpaper
follow these simple steps:
1. Purchase a hardwood dowel from your LHS or home improvement center that is slightly larger than the pre-drilled hole. BE SURE THAT IT IS HARDWOOD....you will need the strength!
2. Drill the pre-drilled hole so that the dowel will fit very snug.
3. Cut a piece of the dowel to 4 inches (does not need to be exact).
4. Apply 30 minute epoxy (again, for strength) to one end of the 4 inch piece of dowel (coat about 1/2 inch) and to the hole you drilled in the firewall.
5. Insert the hardwood dowel into the hole so that it slightly protrudes through the inside of the firewall.
6. Use denatured alcohol to remove any excess epoxy and then allow the epoxy time to cure.
7. Once the epoxy has cured, use an Xacto saw to cut off the part of the dowel that is sticking out of the firewall. Get it as close as you can... you will sand it flush to the firewall.
8. Sand the dowel flush to the firewall.
9. Using 30 minute epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol, re-coat the entire firewall to fuel-proof the bare hardwood dowel and to provide a smooth surface to install the engine mounts.
You now have a solid, smooth firewall in which to safely mount your engine to fit your needs!
I hope that this helps!!
JLB007
AMA# 732453
Dallas R/C Club
Items needed:
1. Hardwood dowel
2. 30 minute epoxy
3. Denatured alcohol (to remove excess epoxy)
4. Xacto saw (to cut hardwood dowel
5. Sandpaper
follow these simple steps:
1. Purchase a hardwood dowel from your LHS or home improvement center that is slightly larger than the pre-drilled hole. BE SURE THAT IT IS HARDWOOD....you will need the strength!
2. Drill the pre-drilled hole so that the dowel will fit very snug.
3. Cut a piece of the dowel to 4 inches (does not need to be exact).
4. Apply 30 minute epoxy (again, for strength) to one end of the 4 inch piece of dowel (coat about 1/2 inch) and to the hole you drilled in the firewall.
5. Insert the hardwood dowel into the hole so that it slightly protrudes through the inside of the firewall.
6. Use denatured alcohol to remove any excess epoxy and then allow the epoxy time to cure.
7. Once the epoxy has cured, use an Xacto saw to cut off the part of the dowel that is sticking out of the firewall. Get it as close as you can... you will sand it flush to the firewall.
8. Sand the dowel flush to the firewall.
9. Using 30 minute epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol, re-coat the entire firewall to fuel-proof the bare hardwood dowel and to provide a smooth surface to install the engine mounts.
You now have a solid, smooth firewall in which to safely mount your engine to fit your needs!
I hope that this helps!!
JLB007
AMA# 732453
Dallas R/C Club



