This question could be posted in almost any forum but here goes. What is the best way to attach a canopy to Monokote?? It needs to be fuel proof.

Zap smokes the inside. Silicon holds only for a while. What else should I try?? []

Mucho thanks. Phil

Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue. It looks like white elmers glue. Goes on white and dries clear. And it sticks to anything! I just used it to glue the canopy on my FuntanaS 90 last week. I used one of my wifes little tools she uses to shape her nails (can't remember what it's called but its like fine sandpaper on a stick) and roughened the the inside of the canopy and the covering where they mate. Works great and won't come apart. Good luck!

Thanks PTGARCIA. Now the search is on for Pacer products. I assume that Tower has it but I hate to order just that. Maybe my silicon will hold until I need some other stuff that the local shop doesn't have. Thanks for the tip.

Phil

I bought mine at the local Hobby People...I'm not sure if they have one in your neck of the woods. The stuff really does work well. Good luck in your search.

I'm curious about how important it is to peal back the covering to get a good bond into the balsa? If you adhere to the covering won't this pull the covering up over time? I am about to glue the canopy on a Gene Soucy Extra with a 160 FX and contemplating whether or not to peal back the covering or not? I have only used this stuff one time. I pealed back the covering on my Pitts with a 50 cc gasser. I normally use button heads into hard points with nylon washers, which has worked fine. With a gas engine the vibration causes the button heads to crack the canopy. Once I sealed the Canopy with Formula 560 canopy glue it has held perfect but here again I pealed back the covering to get a good bond. I sure would like to not have to peal back the covering on the Soucy if I don't have to.

I have used this glue on two planes now (well three, but the FuntanaS hasn't flown yet), a 40-size P-51 and a 28% Laser 200. Both have held without showing any signs of coming loose and I just glued the canopies to the covering, and the P-51 scoots along pretty well. The nice thing about the Formula 560 is that is remains plyable, like silicone. I don't think you need to bother with removing the covering. Just roughen the mating surfaces a little and be sure to clean the joint well be fore gluing.

As far as the covering pulling up, I don't think that will happen, especially if its down nice and tight before you glue the canopy on.

Rf I used the pacer on my Soucy extra with a 1.60 fx. No need to peel back the monocote just glue it right onto the covering. Works great. You'll love the plane with this combo.

Ok, I'm going to give this a try. Like I said, I would rather not bother with pealing back the covering if you don't have to mess with it. I will roughen up the canopy and the covering and Pacer it. Thanks for the feedback.

I have also used the 560 sucessfully on monokote. One suggestion I saw somewhere was to be sure there is a small hole in the canopy or cockpit for pressure equalization. Otherwise sitting in the sun can cause the pressure to build up in a well sealed canopy/cockpit area.

Brian

Brian, good point. I do this as well. It also helps to allow the air to escape vs ripping the canopy off if any should get under it when flying.

I also drill a couple of holes through the lower cockpit floor if it is all sealed up. Otherwise, the difference in the humidity tends to fog the inside. Once the vent holes are drilled I find that it stays clear.

I have used the glue for the canopy but you can still see the glue even though it drys clear,I also add a strip of monocoat trim over the glued area,it just looks cleaner.

when you use this glue over a covering, poke small holes in the covering where the glue line is. That way there is some glue bonding to balsa giving it extra strength while still looking good.

emery board?

Well, success with canopy glue as you guys recommended. I roughed up the covering with a little sand paper and then *****ed holes in it along the glue line and then added Formula 560. Tied rubber bands all around the canopy and let sit over night. So far so good. It seems good and secured with a nice clean finish. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

To keep the humidity out, and to keep the pressure equal inside I simply drill a small hole in the top of the canopy toward the very back and centered.

How long does it take for the 560 canopy glue to turn all clear?

I glued the windshield on my GP Spacewalker last night, and some of the glue is still white. It is gradully getting clear, but I thought it would be all clear by now.

I'm thinking maybe to poke some small holes in the windshield where the glue is white to let air in and make it cure.

Carl

If you have an archery specialty store, get a tube of fletch-rite (or fletch-tite...can't remember) arrow fletching glue. There is no need to scuff anything...just wipe it off with denatured alcohol then a CLEAN, DRY paper towel. This stuff dries SUPER fast and holds like crazy...dries so fast, in fact, that running a bead on the inside then shoving the canopy into position is nearly impossible. You can rubberband the canopy into position and run a tiny bead (the smaller the better) along the edge of the canopy where the rubberbands aren't. Move the rubberbands then run a small bead around the points that have no glue. Now run a bead around the whole edge. It's very thin and shrinks to almost nothing when it dries. A very easy and fast way to get a very clean and reliable installation. Let it cure for about 30 minutes and go fly. The canopy won't come off in the air but may be easily removed by running an xacto blade underneath it around the perimeter.

Another glue I've used with some success is acrylic based silicone. Cleans up (even cured) with denatured alcohol. Takes awhile to dry though and it always seems like I'm in a big hurry so I prefer the fletch-whatever.

rfw1953: That canopy looks very dark. Try to keep it out of the sun whenever possible or it might build up enough heat on the inside to melt it...I've seen it happen before. You probably already know this, but I just wanted to warn you in case you didn't.

-Tom

TT2 - Nope, wasn't aware of any melting issues. Thanks for the information. This is the first time I have smoked one. Used Tamiya Smoke PS-31 polycarbonate spray paint on the inside of the canopy. I wanted it totally stealth and it worked.

cfossa it may take a day or so, and maybe longer where you have a good bit of glue, but it does clear up.

Roger,

Thanks for the answer. It is gradually getting more clear ... I'll just wait a bit more and see if it clears up all the way.


Carl

rfw1953: I've seen guys with dark canopies throw a white towel over them when they're not flying. Seems to work OK.

Tom, thanks for making me aware of the heat issue. It does make sense. This is one lesson I won;t learn the hard way.

Carl, if the canopy glue doesn't clear up to you liking you can use automotive pin striping tape along the edges to cover up the visible glue residue. This also helps to dress the plane up a little and looks much better than seeing the glue show through. From what I can tell , even when it clears after curing you can still see it if you don't have a painted trim line on your canopy.

Pacer canopy glue is OK... definitely has its shortcomings though...

Best glue you will ever find for canopies is PFM.. I have tried everything and there is no comparison.

In addition to being crystal clear - it is incredibly strong and flexible, and it can be removed later if need be.

If you get excess on the canopy / fuse - simply let it dry and roll it off! Strongest stuff you'll ever get!

DP

DP what is PFM and where do you get it

I had to order a new OS .46AX from Tower and saw that they had the Pacer Canopy cement so I ordered that too.

Thanks for all the help. This should do the trick.

Phil

Just ordered some Pacer Canopy glue. Never heard of PFM??? What is it and where do you get it?? []

Phil