For those of you in the process of or about to assemble the GP .90/1.20 Stearman, there are several items of which you should be aware.
1. On pge 20 of the instructions, in the caption under photo #1: "...Install the engine mount with #8-32 x 1 1/4 socket head cap screws..." Unless you wish to have four holes punctured in you fuel tank, use one inch long screws instead. Or put a 1/4" spacer behind the engine mount as I did.
2. On page 28, photos #4 and #7 show the correct arrangement of the push rods internally and externally. On some models the two rod tubes exiting on the right side (left side, inverted) have been reversed and will cause the rods to cross and interfere with one another. Check for this condition before beginning assembly. Hobby Services will replace or fix the fuselage if you are not sure how to address this issue. (217)398-8970, then press 5. Ask for Cory.
3. On page 22 in the caption under photo #3: "The cowl ring should be flush with the top of the fuselage...". Don't rely upon this statement if you wish the side stripes on the cowl to be in alignment with the stripes on the fuselage. Dry mount the cowl and check for alignment. Mine ended up at 1/8 inch above the fuse.
4. On page 18 in the 3 photos above caption #9: The top photo shows the aileron connecting rod parallel with the wing struts. This angle increases in operation, bends the control horns and causes binding. To minimize this condition, I suggest the use of GP swivel mount ball links GPMQ3862 on the bottom ailerons with Esna-type lock nuts. The top can still use a clevis and disconnect there, leaving the bottom connected and laying across the wing for transport. Someone earlier reported that relocating the upper aileron control horn closer to the trailing edge (see that thread) improved the aileron's reaction.
5. On page 4 the red covering is stated as being "True Red". Mine is not...it is Missle Red.
6. On page 28 in caption #3 "Install and then remove two #2-56 x 5/8 machine screws." Should read: "#2 x 3/8 sheet metal screws...".
There are some other minor issues which I'm sure most can work out themselves.

Regards,
DrGO

always check your cowl screws before fligt mine came loose and the cowl went into the prop. I landed ok not much damage but an oversight

Tim,
Try using an external toothed #6 star washer against the wood and a split-ring lock washer under the screw head.
Regards,
DrGO

I put threadlocker on mine

GP Stearman advisory continued...

On page 21, caption #7, "cut the pushrod wire". A 4 stroke-cycle engine is shown. If a 2 stroke-cycle engine is used, the carburetor, of course, is at the front of the engine, so the pushrod wire length is too short even without cutting it.

Regards,
DrGO

Now with all the minor inconveniences resolved, she's ready to fly!

Thanks for the info...I installed the aileron control horns as per RC Report..no binding.
I was going to install an on board ignition system..however the model balanced out without it, so
I think I may leave it off. The plane weighs 14 lbs, hope to test fly it on Wed.

Were can I find info on how to install the aileron control horns so there is no binding? Who or where is RC Expert? Thanks for the help I can't wait to finish this plane and get out there!!

It's the June issue #215.
To correct the binding problem, move the control horn on the upper aileron back until the mounting base is 7/8" from the trailing edge. This will allow for enough movement up and down. The bottom control horn as per step 9 (pg 18). Mine came out 1 1/8" to the base.
Hope this helps.

Larry
AMA 11269

My mistake it's: R/C Report

Sorry