Whats the best way to recover and old ARF? Do you need to remove control surfaces to do a good job? Im wanting to redo my GP AT-6. Has anyone ever tried adding flaps to this ARF? Would it even be worth the work?

I would suggest stripping it all off and re-doing the whole thing. This will look better

I have not done the AT-6 but im sure its pretty straight forward


good luck and post some pics when you are done!!


matt

I do this frequently. I remove the horns, rudder, ailerons, elevator and do it right. Takes me about a month. Sometimes I by an Arf like the WM Midget and re cover. Many nice planes out their but the covering and colors stink. My Shoestring is next on the list this winter. I have a few hindred flights on this baby and has serviced me well and time for a rebuild. I was thinking of that hot neon pink!!!

That sounds interesting. I have been thinking of doing that myself. What is the best method for removing the old covering?

Krister

Most of the time I just lift a corner and start pulling. If it's monokote, it may come off as one or more of three layers--film on top, color in the middle, adhesive on the bottom. If the adhesive layer won't come off, best way to remove it is to sand it lightly (i.e. scrape it off). If the whole thing doesn't want to move, heat it with a covering iron next to where you're pulling, to soften the adhesive. Ultracote and others seem to come off easier. Vinyl stick-ons come off easier if you brush the underside with some denatured alcohol as you're pulling.

Since the rudder and elevator are glued in place whats the best way to cover these areas again? Im talking where they meet the fuse. This plane has CA hinges I will need to cut these what is the best replacement when putting it back together?

I have done quite a few, I always re-cover for fellow Club Members. It is easy, just takes some time. You can use a heat-gun as well to remove the old covering. You can then sand off the adhesive, then fill any dents or repair any damage. You can cut and re-hinge but it's easy to leave the control surfaces on. I use one piece for each side of the H-stab and V-stab, then Seal the gap as I go with the single piece of covering. I do that for both sides when CA Hinges were used. I always cut the CA Hinges and Redo with Du-bro pinned hinges, then pin each side with a toothpick. I just don't trust the CA style over time, with a recover job. Where the stabs meet the fuse is not too hard, just use your iron or I like to use the Monokote Trim Seal Tool, makes it easy in the tight spots. Just work the covering onto the area, use some heat, and it will conform nice. The best advise I can give is-ALWAYS take your time, don't hurry. Good Luck, post some pics.

There is your answer nocrashesyet...that sorta sounds Native American...they call him nocrashesyet...

I always do this too. It actually is a good thing to seal your hinge gaps, and doing it when you re-cover is the ticket. Looks nice too when done right. Also in my experience, it's better if you don't try to use pieces that are too big, or try to cover too large an area at once, especially on the fuse. It is a lot easier to use large pieces to do the wings, one half at a time. You might also take some time to consider the scheme, so you can plan which "pieces of color" covering will go where, and in what order to keep all overlapping seams as fuel proof as possible. It just takes a little planning but it is worth it. Good luck with that.

As for putting flaps on your AT-6...I wouldn't know for sure, but I bet it wouldn't even be worth the trouble. JMO.

Jim

On right angle joints I usually cut a strip, maybe 3/4" wide, and lay that in the corner before I do the larger surface. You need a trim iron to stick the strip tight into the corner. Also remember the general rule of covering, that forward pieces overlap after pieces, and pieces closer to the fuselage overlap pieces further out. This helps keep the airstream from driving exhaust residue under the seam.

As to removing control surfaces, I've done it both ways, depending on my thoughts as to the feasibility of re-hinging. If I re-hinge, I would more likely choose Robart hinge points if there's thick enough wood to drill into, or pin-type hinges--Dubro, GP, Klett, etc. if the surfaces are only 1/4" thick. I like the Dubro hinging tool, the sharp fork followed by the pick, since it makes you work slow and feel your way through the job.

Thanks for the covering tips. My main questions have been answered. I'm going to the Reno air races next month and will be checking out the AT-6's to try and get some ideas on the covering scheme.

Thanks again,
nocrashesyet (yea right)