GP Stuka Arf questions...
#1
Thread Starter

I read before but, can't find anything now by using the search about landing gear issues with the Stuka. Something about how a part that holds the main wheels on was replaced which made it better?? Also read a suggestion to max out the throws on on the controls. Does this include the elevator?? I have a TH 75 engine and the end of the muffler didn't clear. I had to curve out the bottom of the fuse and then fill in the gap with fiberglass. I also used a Sullivan tail wheel bracket instead of the one in the kit. Appreciate any comments or suggestions! [8D]
#2
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From: Puerto La CruzAnzoategui, VENEZUELA
Hi Fastsky....What I think you´re talking about is the tendency the plane has to nose over. I´ve read a few post now about this bad habit. The landing gear of this plane is very solid and will hold very rough landings...I myself have had a few[:@]
The nose over tendency can be fixed bending the struts so that the wheels axis lies forward of the wing leading edge. I did this a couple of month ago and don´t remember having this problem anymore....remember you´ll need some up elev. to hold the tail wheel down at the beginning of the takeoff run.
The recommended elev. throw is ok for the first few flights ....then you can custom the throw to your preference. At the beginning it seems to be a very little throw but it works OK
Hope this will help
Marcos
The nose over tendency can be fixed bending the struts so that the wheels axis lies forward of the wing leading edge. I did this a couple of month ago and don´t remember having this problem anymore....remember you´ll need some up elev. to hold the tail wheel down at the beginning of the takeoff run.
The recommended elev. throw is ok for the first few flights ....then you can custom the throw to your preference. At the beginning it seems to be a very little throw but it works OK
Hope this will help
Marcos
#3
Thread Starter

Hi Nieto, based on what I read I did manage to move the landing gear just over an inch forward. This makes the ground handlying a piece of cake with no hint of nosing over problems. In fact I only needed up elevator in a stiff cross wind to keep the tail down. I maxed out the aileron throws. Managed to get in 2 flights before it got too windy on the weekend. With the ailerons maxed the plane responds as crisp as any of my sport planes. Very nice and looks really different in the air. Also very impressive slow speed flight and glide ratio. Haven't tried the flaps as yet. Want to get to know it a bit better first. This plane is definitely a better flyer than I expected. Later, Fast!
#4
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From: Seaside,
OR
Thank you for this post and the previous one you did. I just purchased my kit this weekend because I wanted to have a plane the was totally different at the field. Seems that everyone either has or wants the P-51/Corsair/Spitfire. I like being different and thought the look of the Stuka is somewhat of a cross between a dog and a dinosaur! Very cool looking. Thanks again. I will keep the adjustments in mind when I build mine.
#6
Thread Starter

The only problem I had with the Stuka assembly was with the pull strings that run through the wings. When gluing the sections together, epoxy leaked through the joints and made some lumps on the strings. Trying to pull the strings with the lumps on them gave me a lot of trouble.
#7
Senior Member
I yanked my strings out before I glued up the wings. Then I took a worm weight (bullet shaped) for fishing with some fishing line and just fished the servo leads thru after I glued them.
#8
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From: , CA
I yanked the string also and fished a small wire in. As far as the deflection go on the airlerons I did go a little over 1/8" more same on elevator. This is'nt a stunt plane so wild rolls and loops are'nt in the big picture. I cut down a set of Robart straight oleo's to give some shock absorbstions.. they work well. Did all the same as heating and bending the strut wire forward to get wheels more forward, never a nose over problem that way. Power in mine is a Saito 100.. plenty.
Nice plane, I like it, 2nd one..
Nice plane, I like it, 2nd one..
#9
Thread Starter

Bob101, thats sort of what I did. I used a flexible golden rod to poke its way through the wing and tied new strings on with that. I think your way would be faster. Hey Warbirdnut, why is your Stuka a different color than mine (looks great btw!) ?? Also was wondering what prop are you using with the Saito?
#10
Senior Member
I always use the worm weight and fishing line. Works good - just tie the weight to the end of the line and drop it in - pick up the wing and hold it exit side down and shake etc.. always works eventually even on wings that have a "jog" or "dogleg" in em.
#11
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From: , CA
Fastsky,
I took all the stock covering off and re-did it with a lighter tan color, then spayed on the brown camo spots.
The Saito 100 has a 14 x 8 prop. Again plenty of power. If you go to much on the surface deflections ( airlerons ) they become brakes and stall the wing not moveing the air over smoothly. IMO to much is'nt good.
Oh..buy the way, the wing spars next to the epoxy joint at the gull are weak, I had a wing just break off on a some what hard landing, (others have had this happen also). Thats why I used the oleo struts.. A little spring action for the gear.
Stock ones are SOLID. no dammpening.. effect at all.
Good Luck..
I took all the stock covering off and re-did it with a lighter tan color, then spayed on the brown camo spots.
The Saito 100 has a 14 x 8 prop. Again plenty of power. If you go to much on the surface deflections ( airlerons ) they become brakes and stall the wing not moveing the air over smoothly. IMO to much is'nt good.
Oh..buy the way, the wing spars next to the epoxy joint at the gull are weak, I had a wing just break off on a some what hard landing, (others have had this happen also). Thats why I used the oleo struts.. A little spring action for the gear.
Stock ones are SOLID. no dammpening.. effect at all.
Good Luck..
#12
Thread Starter

Warbirdnutty, thankx for the info and the heads up about the weak wung joint. Just a thought but I wonder if it would help to fiberglass the joint?? [8D]



