I am getting ready to start assembling my Funtana 90 and I have seen several posts here on the different mods guys are making to the Funtana 90.
I have done several searchs on this subject but I would like to have a thread just on the must do mods you guys are making.
So let the fun begin.

Thanks

Neilarmstrong

"That may have been a small one for Neil but it sure is a big one for me ! "

I did the RCU Review of the Funtana 90, and with my setup (YS 110FZ) the only mod I did was to mount the tank behind the wing tube.

You may want to consider doing a Pull-Pull on the rudder to bring the rudder servo forward which will alleviate having to add nose weight

I would use a different tank than the one that came with the kit (too leakie) and use a Sullivan tail wheel, the stock one is way too weak.

I would glass the engine box mine came apart in mid flight with the saito 100. I would also install a better tail wheel and do pull pull on the rudder.

I've had over 200 flights on this plane and its amazing.

good luck with your build

Hi Mike B. I am also currently working on my Funtana, and got a question. Wouldn't placing the tank in it's original position eliminate the need for extra nose weight? I am going to use an YS 110 as well, and the same servoes you did, except for the rudder. going to put a servo with more torque there. was hoping to build the plane without to many upgrades, but it looks like I'm gonna get a sullivan tail wheel.

I think which item is a "MUST DO MOD" is really up to the pilot. Some pilots go further than others on mods. I made several and most seem to do fine with exception to a few. I took photos of the complete build of my FT 90. If you need any photos just e-mail me with what you need.

I had a Sullivan tail wheel (5-10lbs), but it kept twisting and buckling even on good landings which would limit the amount of time I could fly, so I replaced it now with another type that seems much better. I flew yesterday doing flat spins (upright and inverted), blenders, knife edges, walls, waterfalls, harriers, hovering, torque rolls, rolling circles, rolls, etc... This plane is very fun. If you are at sea level, the YS 1.10FZ is all that is needed. Vertical performance is very good. The APC 16x4 is spinning constantly at 10,300 on the ground. I need a APC 16x6 or 17x4 to get the rpm down some. I can't imagine what 30% would fly like.

Specs with conclusion to the side
YS 1.10FZ (WOW!!)
Wildcat 20/20
(5) HS-5645MG on control surfaces (168oz torque Digital Servos)
(1) HS-85BB on throttle (49oz torque analogue servo)
Robart hinges,(5)3/16" for Ailerons & (4)1/8" on each elevator and rudder (smooth movement)
Gorilla Glue used for Robart Hinge installation
Robart 1" Control Horns
1" servo arms
Hitec Super Slim 8-channel Rx
Futaba 9C Tx
1650mAh NiMH 6.0V (4.9oz weight)
Dual Wire Tail Brace (Stiffer tail)
Great Plane Scale Tail Wheel assembly (much better)
20oz Tank (22 minute flights)
APC 16x4 prop (spools up quick, but I need a APC 16x6 or 17x4)
2.5" Tru-Turn Spinner (perfect size)
PSP Spinner adapter kit (1/2 price of Tru-Turns and works great)
PSP Fuel Dots (easily refuels and depressurize the system)
Beefed up entire wing (highly recommended!!!)
Charging jack
Black Nylon wing bolts
Clipped in wing (extra insurance if the wing bolt breaks)
Blocked wheel pants (didn't make a difference because they still cracked, no longer used)
No pilot to save weight (Could have used one, but did'nt)
1:1 Mechanical Advantage on servos (very important to reduce flutter)
All gaps are sealed including the rudder
RTF weight 8.67lbs

Couple of photos to show mods

Sullivan bent wheel (the 10-22lbs version may do better)


Great Plane Tail wheel being used now


PSP Spinner Adapter Kit


Clipped in wing


Hope this helps and again if you or anyone needs any photos, feel free to e-mail me...

DTB

DTB

Well all I can say is I am on my way to Jackson with my Funtana kit.
Would you prefer if I leave it on the front or rear porch ?
If you could get it finished by lets say ----- this weekend I would appreciated it.
Thanks for the nice reply and photos looks like this is going to take more time than I thought.

mat_bjoe, the fuel tank does not have enuff weight empty to completely make up for some weight up front. You can get by if you are using a heavy battery and mount it up front. You may want to move the tank back to just in front of the wing tube, this will allow the battery to be placed further forward plus it will keep the CG shift down somewhat.

The number one and two required things that must be done with this plane are:

1. Do a good inspection of the wings. Its not hard and takes only a minute thanks to the transparent covering on the bottom of the wing. Twist the wing and look at all the ribs for cracks. Either repair anything that does not look right or call Horizon for a replacement.

2. Set up the control surfaces using good mechanical advantage to prevent flutter.

3. OK, here is a third. Throttle control.

Thoughts on tail wheel. My stock tail wheel assy. lasted many flights, but I have a habit of touching the tail wheel while flying the length of the runway. Got tired of the stock unit bending. I am not a great fan of the Sullivan units as they tend to bend sideways over time. First replacement was a Carl Goldberg unit but I keep popping the little clip off the bottom, not good for how I like to fly the thing. Then I went to a leaf type tail wheel, can't remember the manufacturer but it developed slop at the pivot point. I now have a C. B Associates unit on the rear and it seems to be holding up fine. Two other brands that I think would work would be Sig unit or a Dave Patrick. The bad thing is all replacements add tail weight.

Hope this helps and have fun flying that thing. I have no idea how many hours are on mine now, but its been a fun plane to fly.

Ed M.

Ed, I didn't know you had changed tail wheels again since 10/02/04 LOL.. are you flying today? I know you are, so where? I tried to call you yesterday, but I should have known you were punching holes in the sky somewhere. I'll talk to you later.

Georg Matthews, You can leave in on the back porch. I'll have it ready by 2:30pm. So come on down to Mississippi. Bentgear and I will be more than happy to help you out.

Also I have found that TnT landing gear products has a nice upgrade main landing gear for the Funtana .

DTB, I should be out at DC's this afternoon. Out at Flowood yesterday, had to maiden a Senior Telemaster for a guy. He put a YS 120 on it, don't think I ever got past 1/3 throttle. Sunday I have been asked to fly at SS's new place and do some pictures for him. BTW, tried to email the pics of the flyin but it always bounced back. Too big I guess. Have them burned to a CD. Maybe we can get together in the next couple of days. Can't beleave we both forgot about the Dremmel at the flyin for two days, guess that's what happens when you are having fun.

GEORG, don't leave it for DTB to finish. I didn't think he was ever going to get his in the air he was so picky about every little thing

Ed M.

LOL!!!!!!!

Well I don't think time is much of a factor. It is 40 outside right now with 30 Mph winds.[>:]

DTB
That is by far the most over engineered 90 size plane I've have ever seen.
I think you might have a little to much time on your hands.
I just slapped mine together and flew.

Georg Matthews,

NO modifications except a Sullivan tail wheel bracket for 60 size to 1/4 scale planes weighing 10 to 22 pounds. My Funtana 90 is otherwise stock out of the box and is powered by a YS 1.10 using an APC 16x6 prop. It weighs 9.5 pounds (got a heavy one) and the CG is at 6 7/8 inches with NO added weights. The key to correct center of gravity is to pay attention to the manufacturer and don't use heavy servos because they are absolutely not necessary.
This plane is a blast to fly and has given me no trouble at all.

Maybe so by some pilot standards, but I don't worry too much with that. I do all my birds like that. I used better gear in places I felt it needed to be better supported. Just a matter of preference I imagine. Some of the items listed are general; such as: the charging jack, having proper mechanical advantage, 1" servo arms, Tx and Rx choice. Having it listed sounds like a lot, but not really at all.

After all those mods, I still lost the rear of my exhaust today on my YS. I guess I should have beefed it up also. HUH???? LOL....

Also, my CG is 7-1/4" from LE

DTB

you mentioned you did some work on the wing to mod it, what exactly did you do to beef it up? I know wing failures are still happening! [&o]

To keep it short DiabloKid, it was mainly regluing joints and making sure that the servo trays were securely attached to the ribs. I used thinned epoxy and thin CA. I had a few cracked ribs that I resecured. Reglued the joints from the LE to the TE. Some here again may feel this wasn't needed, but only I saw my wing while building and now I feel more secure about the construction. The wing is a lot stronger than it was originally and this didn't add too much weight because excess glue was not applied.

These planes are designed light for their size and corners were cut to save weight for better 3D performace, but this IMO can cause some structural weakness. I fly my Funtana pretty hard, flipping, flopping, rolling, parachutes, walls, inverted walls, blenders, upright flat spins, knife edges, inside and outside loops, rolling circles, etc... The wings takes a lot of abuse from me, but that is my flying style and I have/had to place attention to where it would be needed. Bentgear can confirm my flying style.

I really believe a lot of the wing failures are due to cracked ribs that were overlook or no attention was placed toward it, but many failures are do to pilot error of not having proper mechanical advantage or using sub-standard servos plus an host of other reasons. These ARF's and any other ARF IMO needs to be inspected for your approval. Most ARF's don't pass my qualifications so special attention has to be done in certain areas for me to have a piece of mind about the construction. ARF (Almost to fly). I am not trying to be funny, but I take that literally. The key word I focus on is the word "ALMOST". I think if attention is placed in key areas, then you should be able to strengthen the structure and still keep the weight down. Again, with all the mods I have done, it still only weights 8.67lbs ready to fly before being fueled up.

Duplicated post by mistake...[:@]

thanks for the info DTB, did you have any isues with recovering the exposed areas? What technique did you employ in getting it to look clean?

Before I flew my plane, I read all the exploding wing storys on the long Funtana thread here. I knew something was going on or a lot of people didn't know what they were do, but I also knew Bentgear's Funtana was doing fine with no modifications what so ever. I didn't want to take any chances so I dropped thin CA onto all the joints on the LE and where the ribs meet under the sheeting, also on the sheer web area also (front and back). The wing tube area was beefed up also using a little more glue. I mainly used a long extension with a brush on the end to work through the tip and root of the wings. I was able to do all the work needed without removing the top or bottom covering. Every rib has been brushed with thinned epoxy to make sure no cracks were unattended and the servo tray ribs were reinforced with a little glass. These ribs have to be strong IMO and the TE of the rib was resecured also. Be careful of the ribs close to the tip. They all had tiny cracks that you couldn't see through the covering, but once the covering on the tip of the wing was removed, the cracks were there in plain view.

Before the building police comes to arrest me, I'll be the first to admit, this may have been a little over kill even by my standards, but one thing for sure is the wing and servo trays are a lot stronger than they ever were when they left HANGER 9 and obviously did not add much weight as I am still under 9 lbs. If you take this route, the key is to not go crazy with the glues. That stuff adds up weight quick. A little does a lot.

The photo below shows a crack rib on tip of the wing that was not seen through the covering. The photo doesn't show the crack very well, but there was enough space to allow light to pass through when viewing it horizontally.