BTW, I edited the post title. I've been informed that what I have experienced is not typical for a Yellow ARF so I'm just changing to be careful on pull pull in general.
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Ok, it was late one night when I installed the pull-pull that came with the Yellow Giles .60 kit. Since I had never installed a pull-pull before I followed the instructions and crossed the cables.

Maiden flight almost ended in disaster. Got a lot glitches but was able to get her down. Come to find out the cables in the kit are NOT coated. I replaced with kevlar (real easy stuff to work with btw) and it cleared right up.

Just wanted to let anyone else know to throw out the pull-pull cables that come with these kits before you're not so lucky.

BTW, before I flew it I ranged checked it and it checked fine. When I got it down I did another range check and once again, it was fine. Then I range checked on the other side of the plane and couldn't get 25 feet. The cables just happen to be between the antenna and myself on that side.

Very strange... I've had 6 Yellow planes (3 in the 60-size) and had no problems with the pull-pull (with interference, tension, durability, etc) through several hundred flights on each plane. It sounds more like a freak incident rather than a regular occurance.

Coated, not coated... shouldn't matter. Inorris - the antenna cable was in the designated tube...? or could there be a problem with a goofy vibration or funky happenstance with the pull-pulls? More details please.. I'm interested!

-Juhan

Tube? There was no tube in the kit nor in the instructions that I saw... Maybe this is the problem.... Metall to Metal rubbing does cause interference so I can't see how you're not getting this if you have it setup the way I did.

The ground check got better when I uncrossed the cables but I didn't want to take any chances. Flew again today without any glitches.

BTW, do you know what they use on these? Is it monocote or ultracoat? I've got a piece of covering that has come loose from just under the cowl and torn so I need to replace it.

I believe it's monocote.

Blackdog

hello hello

I Have The Cap 232/60. I never crossed the pull/pull cable. I quess I was lucky not crossing them. I never had a prob. When I build the new Giles G 300/120 from Y.A., I'll remember your post.

All of the Yellow aerobatic planes have nylon-coated pull-pulls. (This information from Charles at Yellow.) Crossing these lines will not have any residual radio effects. None.

Sorry for the confusion.. the tube I was talking about is the small antenna tube on the base of the fuse... so you can slide the receiver antenna all the way down the fuse with ease...

-Juhan

Ok this is odd because my cables I'm pretty sure where not coated nor was there any antenna tube.

It definately was the source of my radio interference as I've now flown several times with no more hits. and I can range check on both sides of the aircraft 100+ feet.

Maybe I got a Friday plane...

In any case, I'm not knocking the plane at all. I like it so far. I used almost all the supplied accessories too which is rare. The tank, cables, and pushrod where the only thing I replaced.

Thought you all might want to see picts.

I haven't put the decals on yet btw...

It really is a good looking airplane. Built very strong and light.

Man, that thing really cries out for some wheel pants!

Pants? We don't need no stinking pants....

Actually I fly off of a grass field so while the pants would make it look good, they wouldn't last long.

It did come with some really nice fiberglass pants btw...

Beautifull airplane. If I brought my planes up from the basement (my workshop) and put them on my floors or carpets it would be like signing my own death warrant. LOL

I fly off a grass field too, but I'm lucky in that it gets mowed nice and regularly Means I can leave my pants on when I go flying

This time of year I wear shorts when I fly :spinnyeye

Any how, why are you guys crossing the pull-pull? Coated wire will wear off at some point. Any metal rubbing to metal is going to make RF noise. It may or may not hit our band width. I never have crossed my pull-pull, from 40 size to my 33% edge. I have never had any problems.

Scott

How long of a servo arm would one use for a pull-pull typically? Is there any way to figure out how long one should make it to get the recommended throw before committing and soldering the cable through the arm? Seems in most pics the arms are longer than the norm when using pull-pull...

I'm setting up my DP Ultimate 40 with Hitec 225's and trying to make the right choice of arms. Guess I could put clevis with eye on both sides so I can change if necessary? Who sells good pull-pull hardware?

Crossing pull-pulls may create a better exit angle for the cable/clevis/surface horn.

As far as the Hitec 225s, Dubro has some decent large-style horns (I think) as well basic pull-pull hardware. There are several folks who pump out pull-pull setups, but they escape my mind at the moment. I sometimes even concoct my own with copper tubing and decent wire.

Quickie note about using 225s on a 40-size plane: Are you using metal gears? 225s do strip on occasion when attached to larger surfaces (like on 40-size planes). I love the 225s and use them often.. but am wary about them stripping on planes such as my Pen Knife and Ultra Stick 40.

-Juhan

I use Dubro riging couplers in either 2-56 or 4-40 size with coated steel fishing leader available from fishing supply sources. They also have crimp sleeves in bulk. For about $10 you can get enough cable and crimps to build several pull-pull setups.

I did not use metal gears on the 225's...might be a mistake but I have a Kyosho Cap 232 with OS 70FS that I snap roll and fly very hard and it hasn't stripped in over a year...either lucky or I baby my landings

I had considered a 225MG for the rudder at least but decided not to for now...I can always pop one in later.

As far as the servo arms...do I need to put in longer ones than the typical ones used for non pull-pull? Most of the pics I've seen seem to use longer arms. Did you mean Dubro horns or arms?

I used the 2-56 Dubro stuff....rigging connectors, steel clevises etc and some nylon coated, stainless steel fishing trace wire. It hasn't stretched/lost tension yet (this is on my World Models Ultimate 120....even with blenders etc).