Corby Starlet
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From: WATKINSVILLE, GA
Today was finally the day!!
I got Miss Starlet out to the field and made her maiden flight. All went well, and she flies really great. After so much time waiting for the field to dry, the plane to get all those last minute adjustments done, everything went great.
I love this lil plane. Real pitchy, but I was ready for that.. Gonna get some more time on her tomorrow.
I got Miss Starlet out to the field and made her maiden flight. All went well, and she flies really great. After so much time waiting for the field to dry, the plane to get all those last minute adjustments done, everything went great.
I love this lil plane. Real pitchy, but I was ready for that.. Gonna get some more time on her tomorrow.
#203
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ORIGINAL: racerchuck
[font=''Arial''][/font]Today was finally the day!!
I got Miss Starlet out to the field and made her maiden flight. All went well, and she flies really great. After so much time waiting for the field to dry, the plane to get all those last minute adjustments done, everything went great.
I love this lil plane. Real pitchy, but I was ready for that.. Gonna get some more time on her tomorrow.
[font=''Arial''][/font]Today was finally the day!!
I got Miss Starlet out to the field and made her maiden flight. All went well, and she flies really great. After so much time waiting for the field to dry, the plane to get all those last minute adjustments done, everything went great.
I love this lil plane. Real pitchy, but I was ready for that.. Gonna get some more time on her tomorrow.
She is a bit pitchy .. this is why I mentioned keeping those elevators travels small and possibly a bit of expo.
Once you get used to that, she's one of the best flying planes around!
Well done mate !
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hi Everyone,
Just thought I would re - introduce my self as it has been a while since I have been on line.
I am always pleased to see comments about my design (Corby Starlet) and the nice things people have to say. If anyone has any questions they would like to ask please feel free and I will do my best to answer them for you.
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
Just thought I would re - introduce my self as it has been a while since I have been on line.
I am always pleased to see comments about my design (Corby Starlet) and the nice things people have to say. If anyone has any questions they would like to ask please feel free and I will do my best to answer them for you.
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
#205

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From: Naperville,
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It is certainly good to hear from you again, CJ!
I have always wondered about putting a scale cockpit into the smaller (52/70) Starlet. Would taking out the existing balsa "shelf" that the pilot bust is mounted upon significantly reduce the structural integrity of the fuselage? Or does the wing and the wing hold-down bolts & dowels provide all the torsional strength that is needed?
- RB8
I have always wondered about putting a scale cockpit into the smaller (52/70) Starlet. Would taking out the existing balsa "shelf" that the pilot bust is mounted upon significantly reduce the structural integrity of the fuselage? Or does the wing and the wing hold-down bolts & dowels provide all the torsional strength that is needed?
- RB8
#206

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Hi, Chris!
GREAT little plane here! In fact, mine just landed on the workbench a few days ago, it's now back to being the current project and I'm going to be finishing it up, so your timing could not have been better! It had been sidelined because I screwed something up and had to repair it before resuming work on it.
I do have a question. I have two choices here for my power plant. I have a new Saito .62, and a new Saito .72. I'm not into craziness or 3-D or hovering, but I'm a very good aerobatic pilot. I've been trying to figure out which way I should strike the balance, by keeping it a bit lighter with the Saito .62 or making it a little faster with the Saito .72. I have been looking at the landing gear and they seem to be pretty darn short, so I'm leaning toward using the .62 and having a tad more prop clearance.
I would enjoy hearing what your thoughts would be on powering it. I'm sure few people have as much intimate knowledge of this model as you do..
It's great (and more than a little bit exciting) to see you in here, Chris!
~ Jim ~
GREAT little plane here! In fact, mine just landed on the workbench a few days ago, it's now back to being the current project and I'm going to be finishing it up, so your timing could not have been better! It had been sidelined because I screwed something up and had to repair it before resuming work on it.
I do have a question. I have two choices here for my power plant. I have a new Saito .62, and a new Saito .72. I'm not into craziness or 3-D or hovering, but I'm a very good aerobatic pilot. I've been trying to figure out which way I should strike the balance, by keeping it a bit lighter with the Saito .62 or making it a little faster with the Saito .72. I have been looking at the landing gear and they seem to be pretty darn short, so I'm leaning toward using the .62 and having a tad more prop clearance.
I would enjoy hearing what your thoughts would be on powering it. I'm sure few people have as much intimate knowledge of this model as you do..
It's great (and more than a little bit exciting) to see you in here, Chris!
~ Jim ~
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
HI RB8,
I often thought about putting in a little deatil in that area,at the time the reason was that I wan'ted to keep my model the same as what the purchaser would get in the box, I see no reason why you could notleave out the floor,most of the strength is gained from the formers F2 which is the the former in front of the leading edge,F3 which is the instrument panel and F4 is the former located at the trailing edge of the wing and to top it off the ply doublers on the inside of the fuse should keep it all stable for strength.
I have plenty pic's of the inside of the full size cockpit should you need a little help with some detail.
Good luck and nice chatting.
CHRIS WHITE
I often thought about putting in a little deatil in that area,at the time the reason was that I wan'ted to keep my model the same as what the purchaser would get in the box, I see no reason why you could notleave out the floor,most of the strength is gained from the formers F2 which is the the former in front of the leading edge,F3 which is the instrument panel and F4 is the former located at the trailing edge of the wing and to top it off the ply doublers on the inside of the fuse should keep it all stable for strength.
I have plenty pic's of the inside of the full size cockpit should you need a little help with some detail.
Good luck and nice chatting.
CHRIS WHITE
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hi Jim,
Great to hear from you Jim, my model was only ever test flown with the FS70 engine and I would say that it was the best engine size for the model, it also help achieve the desired C/G for the modelwhich will help smooth out the landings.(KEEPING THE WEIGHT ABOVE THE MAIN AXLE"S HELPS THIS) The model with the FS61 will fly fine but you will need to add some dead weight with lead in the nose.. The extra power from the FS 70 will give you good authority but at the same time it will not turn it into a 3d machine. When I ran the FS 70 I think I used a 13 x 6 master airscrew and the prop clearance was fine as well,I would not suggest making the U/C legs longer. When you go to assemble the model I would suggest mixing up some Z Epoxy and painting inside the tank bay area using a paint brush,try and make sure you get it on the U/C plate and the supports that hold it in.
Everthing in the kit that u you get I used on my models without any changes of hardware, so should feel safe in that area.
I hope this has helped in some way and have fun with the Corby..
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
Great to hear from you Jim, my model was only ever test flown with the FS70 engine and I would say that it was the best engine size for the model, it also help achieve the desired C/G for the modelwhich will help smooth out the landings.(KEEPING THE WEIGHT ABOVE THE MAIN AXLE"S HELPS THIS) The model with the FS61 will fly fine but you will need to add some dead weight with lead in the nose.. The extra power from the FS 70 will give you good authority but at the same time it will not turn it into a 3d machine. When I ran the FS 70 I think I used a 13 x 6 master airscrew and the prop clearance was fine as well,I would not suggest making the U/C legs longer. When you go to assemble the model I would suggest mixing up some Z Epoxy and painting inside the tank bay area using a paint brush,try and make sure you get it on the U/C plate and the supports that hold it in.
Everthing in the kit that u you get I used on my models without any changes of hardware, so should feel safe in that area.
I hope this has helped in some way and have fun with the Corby..
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
#210

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Thanks, Chris.
You've given me some things to think about, and I'll go with the Saito .72. I wasn't going to change the landing gear, no need to worry about that, my concern was just the height versus the prop length. I guess 13 inches is not a real big prop, and it would be the same prop for the Saito .72.
I'm hoping to get some "play time" in tomorrow with the Corby.
I had thought about getting the larger Corby model with a gasser, but that will have to be in the future, as my hangar is pretty full right now, so something would have to go to make room.
Thanks for the advice, Chris,
and of course Chad.....always good to see you, Chad.
~ Jim ~
You've given me some things to think about, and I'll go with the Saito .72. I wasn't going to change the landing gear, no need to worry about that, my concern was just the height versus the prop length. I guess 13 inches is not a real big prop, and it would be the same prop for the Saito .72.
I'm hoping to get some "play time" in tomorrow with the Corby.
I had thought about getting the larger Corby model with a gasser, but that will have to be in the future, as my hangar is pretty full right now, so something would have to go to make room.
Thanks for the advice, Chris,
and of course Chad.....always good to see you, Chad.
~ Jim ~
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hi there,
I can confirm the model (Corby Starlet 52/70) is covered with profilm,they had to get a large production run of that colour to get it near the oringinal full size scheme, so I guess if the factory has run out of that clour type it may not be around again to purchase.
Hope this helps.
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
I can confirm the model (Corby Starlet 52/70) is covered with profilm,they had to get a large production run of that colour to get it near the oringinal full size scheme, so I guess if the factory has run out of that clour type it may not be around again to purchase.
Hope this helps.
Regards
CHRIS WHITE
#212

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From: Naperville,
IL
I found a film that matchs the yellow of the original 52/70 Corby Starlet. It's from HobbyKing, "Covering Film Solid Cyan-Yellow (5mtr) 105". It's very reasonably priced at $13, but will cost another $15 to ship to the US. I got the 5m roll (~15ft), and it has the same white "undercoat" as the film on the Sportsman Aviation Corby.
- RB8
- RB8
#213

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From: WATKINSVILLE, GA
This is a timely post for me. I have just banged my Corby up a little, and am getting ready to rebuild the fuse forward of the landing gear. I inadvertantly reversed the ailerons while adjustin my radio the other day, getting ready for my SECOND flight with my Lovely Corby. I banged it flat in from abouT 3 feet up.
I've got mine powered with a Magnum 70 4 stroke, and I think the 72 will be enouh for yours Jim. Funny, what else have you got flying?We may have more in common han I thought....(Waco,CWM, & Starlet)
I've got mine powered with a Magnum 70 4 stroke, and I think the 72 will be enouh for yours Jim. Funny, what else have you got flying?We may have more in common han I thought....(Waco,CWM, & Starlet)
#214
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Just thought I would put a pic up of my F4C Corby which is a comp model which I will take to the US Scale masters this year in September. Here is a pic of the model with John Corby on the left and the owner of the real Corby back in New Zealand.
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
#215

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Hey Chuck, good to see you in here!
I also have a SIG Spacewalker II, an Ultra Stick 60, an Extreme Flight 74" YAK 54, a SIG Sundancer 50 Bipe, A Golden Skies RC Crossfire 320, and a Super Sport 40-46. And that accounts for about every extra nook and cranny I have for storage!
Since Chad Veich, Chris White, and now you all feel the .72 will be a good motor for my Corby Starlet, I don't have any hesitation using it, so that's been decided.
Chris,
The yellow on that competition model looks a little bit CUB-ish to me, is that the full-scale color or are we just seeing a little darkness from the way the photo was taken? Beautiful model, by the way.
RedBall,
Thanks for the tip on where to get the coating. 30 bucks is a deal when you need it badly!
~ Jim ~
I also have a SIG Spacewalker II, an Ultra Stick 60, an Extreme Flight 74" YAK 54, a SIG Sundancer 50 Bipe, A Golden Skies RC Crossfire 320, and a Super Sport 40-46. And that accounts for about every extra nook and cranny I have for storage!
Since Chad Veich, Chris White, and now you all feel the .72 will be a good motor for my Corby Starlet, I don't have any hesitation using it, so that's been decided.
Chris,
The yellow on that competition model looks a little bit CUB-ish to me, is that the full-scale color or are we just seeing a little darkness from the way the photo was taken? Beautiful model, by the way.
RedBall,
Thanks for the tip on where to get the coating. 30 bucks is a deal when you need it badly!
~ Jim ~
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hi Jim,
The photos are changing the colour somewhat...I posted three pictures about 4 posts ago of the full size and even when you look at 3 pictures you can see a differents's in the colour. The joys of building scale Iam affarid.
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
The photos are changing the colour somewhat...I posted three pictures about 4 posts ago of the full size and even when you look at 3 pictures you can see a differents's in the colour. The joys of building scale Iam affarid.
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
#218
Okay, so am I the only one in this thread who has noticed that the model doesn't seem to have nearly as much dihedral as the full-scale? Or is this just an illusion?
Question for Chris White how much dihedral is in the full-scale Corby? It looks to be at least 5 degrees, if not more, where the model has a quite shallow angle. Can't see the number in the full-scale three-view included in the manual.
The spirited look of all that dihedral is a significant contributor to the cuteness factor of this little plane, IMO. I plan on making a new ply joiner for mine, with more dihedral, if that's what it takes.
Question for Chris White how much dihedral is in the full-scale Corby? It looks to be at least 5 degrees, if not more, where the model has a quite shallow angle. Can't see the number in the full-scale three-view included in the manual.
The spirited look of all that dihedral is a significant contributor to the cuteness factor of this little plane, IMO. I plan on making a new ply joiner for mine, with more dihedral, if that's what it takes.
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From: athens,
GA
Chris,
What should the incidence be between the wing and stab on the 38% scale Sportsman Aviation Corby? Should they be the same?
I recently purchased this plane, but haven't begun construction yet. I was reading a thread somewhere on this plane recently, and the owner wasn't happy with the way the plane was flying. He had measured the incidence between the wing and stab and found that the wing had a 3 degree postive angle over the stab. He eventually redrilled the front wing dowel holes in the fuselage and lowered the front of wing as far as he could, to 1 degree positive on the wing. This made the plane fly much better, but he had a 1/2" gap between the fuselage and the front top of the wing by doing so. This seems rather drastic fix for a prebuilt kit. I believe that the link below describes the problems I mentioned.
globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=202129...
Jerrya
What should the incidence be between the wing and stab on the 38% scale Sportsman Aviation Corby? Should they be the same?
I recently purchased this plane, but haven't begun construction yet. I was reading a thread somewhere on this plane recently, and the owner wasn't happy with the way the plane was flying. He had measured the incidence between the wing and stab and found that the wing had a 3 degree postive angle over the stab. He eventually redrilled the front wing dowel holes in the fuselage and lowered the front of wing as far as he could, to 1 degree positive on the wing. This made the plane fly much better, but he had a 1/2" gap between the fuselage and the front top of the wing by doing so. This seems rather drastic fix for a prebuilt kit. I believe that the link below describes the problems I mentioned.
globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=202129...
Jerrya
#220
I found these pics of Corbys in similar orientations, one is a full-scale, the other two are models. Tell me you can't see the difference in the amount of dihedral here.
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hello dgliderguy,
You are 100% correct, the model Corby does not have the same amout of angle in the wing dihederal as the full size. I buit 3 version of the model before it went to the factory, all of them had small changes in one way or another.
With regards to the dihederal the reason it was lowered as the model would show signs of pro - verse roll when rudder was applied in both level flight and in knife edge flight. Simple put pro - verse roll when applied makes the model roll in the same direction of the rudder direction in both knife edge and level flight, the first protype that was made had the scale dihederal and it did pro verse roll quite badly, hence the change to what it is now. Its all a bit of a compromise when you design model's and when they are used by the public it is even more important to get it as close to every bodies skill level. I do agree with you all the same that the dihederal is a nice feature of the full size.
REAGRDS
CHRIS WHITE
You are 100% correct, the model Corby does not have the same amout of angle in the wing dihederal as the full size. I buit 3 version of the model before it went to the factory, all of them had small changes in one way or another.
With regards to the dihederal the reason it was lowered as the model would show signs of pro - verse roll when rudder was applied in both level flight and in knife edge flight. Simple put pro - verse roll when applied makes the model roll in the same direction of the rudder direction in both knife edge and level flight, the first protype that was made had the scale dihederal and it did pro verse roll quite badly, hence the change to what it is now. Its all a bit of a compromise when you design model's and when they are used by the public it is even more important to get it as close to every bodies skill level. I do agree with you all the same that the dihederal is a nice feature of the full size.
REAGRDS
CHRIS WHITE
#223
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Just looked at the pictures,the centre Corby is not one of the ARF Corby's from Sportsman Aviation,this can be seen by the colour scheme,cowl and the wing tips, but also agree who ever made this one also decreased the dihederal for some reason.
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
REGARDS
CHRIS WHITE
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From: sydney, AUSTRALIA
Hi Jim,
Thats correct,with the dihederal in the model as it comes out of the box this will give you best performance for the Corby.
Evenif you asked to increse it I would not suggest it as it did get some bad habbits,some time being to stable is not always the best fit for all models,as I mention in my other comments to others its all about compromise, and I think thats the differne beweet good ARF'S or bad ARFS.
Regards
CHRIS WHITE</p>
#225
Chris,
Yeah, the model in the middle picture is the RBC kit; a little smaller than the Global kit, but same minimal dihedral, from what I can tell.
Sounds like you experimented a bit with the dihedral, and ended up with the setting you did to prevent that sashay that comes from an over-powerful rudder. I've had other models with large rudders and a lot of dihedral, and you only had to breathe on the rudder to get it to roll like a Pitts. It's that pesky yaw-roll couple at it again.
I will still add some dihedral, knowing full well what effect it is bound to have on my model, and report back here. I expect I will also end up with lots of aileron differential throw, to keep the adverse yaw to reasonable levels (another side effect of too much dihedral), and I will need a deft touch on the rudder stick in the turns. I don't plan on doing any knife-edge or precision aerobatics with this one, I'll leave that for the Cap-n-Extra guys. But I expect the snap rolls will be nice and crisp!
What a cutie-pie the little Corby is! Gotta love it!
Yeah, the model in the middle picture is the RBC kit; a little smaller than the Global kit, but same minimal dihedral, from what I can tell.
Sounds like you experimented a bit with the dihedral, and ended up with the setting you did to prevent that sashay that comes from an over-powerful rudder. I've had other models with large rudders and a lot of dihedral, and you only had to breathe on the rudder to get it to roll like a Pitts. It's that pesky yaw-roll couple at it again.
I will still add some dihedral, knowing full well what effect it is bound to have on my model, and report back here. I expect I will also end up with lots of aileron differential throw, to keep the adverse yaw to reasonable levels (another side effect of too much dihedral), and I will need a deft touch on the rudder stick in the turns. I don't plan on doing any knife-edge or precision aerobatics with this one, I'll leave that for the Cap-n-Extra guys. But I expect the snap rolls will be nice and crisp!
What a cutie-pie the little Corby is! Gotta love it!



