Ultra Stick Lite ???
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (65)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Sandown NH
I am putting together an Ultra Stick Lite 120 and am going to be using Ailerons only on the wing and want to know if I use the inside servo location or outside servo location since I will not be using the Flaps.
Thanks
Ron9844
Thanks
Ron9844
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Idaho Falls,
ID
ron9844, I've had all the Ultra Sticks. They are really fun to fly. You should use the inside (closest to the fuse) servo holes for aileron only wing setup. It's hard to find but I did find that in the manual somewhere. It was just in the written information in the aileron mounting area somewhere. But nevertheless, that's where you mount it. If I was building mine the first time I would not mount the servos for the elevator and rudder in the fuse/wing area. Almost everyone of these planes build very nose heavy. You have to build a mount for it, but it's really pretty easy, (I ended up doing this on my 120 and 60 size) but, I would mount the servos in the tail area. I fly mine with a YS110FZ engine and was able to drop my weight from originally 11lbs to 9lbs 0ozs. I could drop easily another 2-3 ounces with a smaller battery and lighter servos. But I love it where it's at and it performs great. It will do many 3D stunts now and is a joy to fly. Easy to land and is just a great/fun airplane.
These are kinda like a Jeep. Tough, rugged, do anything planes.
Good luck.
Barry
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (61)
Find my thread "Ultra Stick Lite done right" ... there it shows you how to build a 9+ pound USL lite... You can take a lot of weight out of it and it will remain strong and fly great.
Mine, with a G26 Gasoline engine (a lot heavier than a YS, etc) weighed well under 10 pounds. It is a rocket ship.. takes off in 10 feet and goes straight up!
DP
Mine, with a G26 Gasoline engine (a lot heavier than a YS, etc) weighed well under 10 pounds. It is a rocket ship.. takes off in 10 feet and goes straight up!
DP
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (264)
Yes, mount the servos inboard. I have mine setup with the qaud flaps and a 537 servo moves each surface. I almost never use the flaps or spoilers. If I had to do it again, I'd just build it with the strip aileron option.
BTW, I have a G-26 on mine with 3.5" of the nose removed from the fuse for a perfect balance. The G-26 is a great engine for this plane. It will sustain a vertical climb at half throttle and flat out haul at full.
BTW, I have a G-26 on mine with 3.5" of the nose removed from the fuse for a perfect balance. The G-26 is a great engine for this plane. It will sustain a vertical climb at half throttle and flat out haul at full.
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Idaho Falls,
ID
bigal422. I have the 110 on mine, its a Lite 120. I only use two wing servos, and I moved the rudder and elevator servo to the tail for balance. Mine weighs exactly 9lbs 0ozs and it wasn't really hard to get to that weight. In fact I have 2 HS5645 metal gear servos in the tail and 2 Futaba 9001 in the ailerons and a Futaba 3004 on the throttle. These aren't exactly light weight servos. I used DuBro Super Lite tires and everything else is stock. Oh, I did use Central Hobbies carbon fiber pushrods to stiffen the controls. The 110 flys this plane wonderfully. You don't need any more power. I can hover this plane easily with massive pull out. I use a APC 16x6 prop. I use 30% heli Cool Power fuel, YS loves high nitro and, get this, I fly at 4800' elevation. Vertical is truly unlimited. And this plane will do a great upright flat spin. It lacks elevator and rudder for real great 3D but is extremely aerobatic anyways. It lands so easy it's silly and it's big enough that it's great in windy or adverse conditions. I really like this plane and setup and could recommend it wholeheartedly to anyone. Nice airplane.Thanks,
Barry
#8
If you do some lightening you can get UNDER 9lbs. with a big glow. For example I run the ST 1.40 and my plane weighs about 8lbs. 10 oz. I use a Mezjlik CF 18X6, Graphtech LG, Futaba S3305 servos, Small Futaba 6V battery, 12 oz. main tank with 2 oz. header tank, Bisson Pitts Muffler, Stock Engine Mounts.
If you run the stock mounts, The heat from your engine will transfer into them so they function as extra cooling "fins." <<Little Tip I picked up from a friend.
Back to the original question- Yes use the inboard aileron bays.
If you run the stock mounts, The heat from your engine will transfer into them so they function as extra cooling "fins." <<Little Tip I picked up from a friend.
Back to the original question- Yes use the inboard aileron bays.
#10

My Feedback: (50)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: lenoir,
NC
Barry, I just have to ask. Do you think the YS 110 would be to much for the ultra stick 60. I really like hovering and torque rolls. I like having reserve power to pull out.
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Idaho Falls,
ID
I guess there are those that say you can never have too much power. I'm power hungry too but I had a Saito 100 on my 60 and that it was great. Again, I use 30% Nitro, but I also fly a 4800'. In my mind the 100 is great for the 60 but with good throttle management the 110 would be awesome. I have 5 110 motors so I'm no stranger to them. I just think it would be a waste on the 60. It just doesn't need it. I'm very, VERY impressed with the Lite 120 and the YS 110. Anything at or under 9 1/2lbs is a great flyer for the YS. Certainly it will hover and torque roll all day with the 110, obviously the 60 size would also, but I'd be a little worried about running the engine so slow that you get loading up problems and poor response. Thanks,
Barry
#12

My Feedback: (50)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: lenoir,
NC
Barry, I am a stranger to them. This is my first YS. The thing makes great power, but is so hard to keep tuned. That is the reason its on the shelf right now. I had it on a hanger 9 Miss America and just couldn't keep it set. I know most of the problem is my inexperiance on this motor. I have decided to get it out agian and put it on an open cowl plane. I may have to press on you for a little tuning help.
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Idaho Falls,
ID
They are hard to tune engines. But, when you get them down, they work pretty good. Go to www.ysperformance.com for info. This is a good place to start. Just don't try to lean it down too much. And they work better in open cowl situations.Good luck,
Thanks,
Barry
#14

My Feedback: (50)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: lenoir,
NC
Barry, I finished the ultra stick 120 yesterday. I got several flights before the wind got up. The thing flies great, but the 110 is not near enought for this plane. Vertical is very limited but does a pretty good job of basic pattern stuff. The 110 is still really rich. It only had 4 previous flights on it prior to yesterday. Thanks for the info on the YS web site. It was a big help. I am planning to shed a little more wieght and lean on the engine a little more. I think this will help the performance.
#16
bigal,
i'm Not sure exactly what it is you wanna know so i'll go through benefits and construction:
Benefits:
the main tank (12 oz.) will empty into the 2 oz. header tank and give you a constant mixture throughout the flight because the engine is drawing fuel from the 2 oz. tank. This way you can take off with the mixture set how you want it and It will stay there.. You don't have to tune extra rich to compensate for the engine leaning out. The only "downside" is when you get to the point where your main tank is completely empty and your just running on the header the engine WILL lean out.. But there's also an upside here, You know when your on your last 2 ounces of fuel and yo need to land.
Construction:
Outside of the plane construction is simple, You simple get your fuel tank stoppers ready ALMOST like they normally would be.. We'll start with the main tank, run your clunk and pressure lines as you normally would. And connect your fuel lines outside of the tank (Pressure line to muffler, and leave the carb. line alone for now). OK now to the header, run your clunk line as on a regular setup, the clunk line from the small tank WILL go to the carb., BUT your pressure line will be different. Instead of bending the tube up to meeet the top of the tank, just run it straight into the tank.
Hooking Up The System:
The pressure line for the main tank (big one) will go to the muffler as usual. But the line connected to the clunk will go to the pressure tube on the small tank.. Now the Clunk from the small tank (header) will go to the carb.
You need to try to set the tanks side by side with the fronts even with each other.
I don't know how clear this explaination is, but if you have any questions just post them here.
i'm Not sure exactly what it is you wanna know so i'll go through benefits and construction:
Benefits:
the main tank (12 oz.) will empty into the 2 oz. header tank and give you a constant mixture throughout the flight because the engine is drawing fuel from the 2 oz. tank. This way you can take off with the mixture set how you want it and It will stay there.. You don't have to tune extra rich to compensate for the engine leaning out. The only "downside" is when you get to the point where your main tank is completely empty and your just running on the header the engine WILL lean out.. But there's also an upside here, You know when your on your last 2 ounces of fuel and yo need to land.
Construction:
Outside of the plane construction is simple, You simple get your fuel tank stoppers ready ALMOST like they normally would be.. We'll start with the main tank, run your clunk and pressure lines as you normally would. And connect your fuel lines outside of the tank (Pressure line to muffler, and leave the carb. line alone for now). OK now to the header, run your clunk line as on a regular setup, the clunk line from the small tank WILL go to the carb., BUT your pressure line will be different. Instead of bending the tube up to meeet the top of the tank, just run it straight into the tank.
Hooking Up The System:
The pressure line for the main tank (big one) will go to the muffler as usual. But the line connected to the clunk will go to the pressure tube on the small tank.. Now the Clunk from the small tank (header) will go to the carb.
You need to try to set the tanks side by side with the fronts even with each other.
I don't know how clear this explaination is, but if you have any questions just post them here.
#17

My Feedback: (50)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: lenoir,
NC
Ice Man,
You've been a big help. The info you posted was very well explained. I don't think I will need this set up for my current set up, because I am running a YS 110 and it creats a constant 9psi. I will keep this in mind when and if I ever set up another 2 stroke. Thanks again, Big Al
You've been a big help. The info you posted was very well explained. I don't think I will need this set up for my current set up, because I am running a YS 110 and it creats a constant 9psi. I will keep this in mind when and if I ever set up another 2 stroke. Thanks again, Big Al




