Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

On the .60 P-51 you also have to reiforce the firewall as with most ARF's these days, also the retracts shoould be replaced. The stock retracts will not hold the wieght of the plane, you will be bending or breaking the gear wire. My buddy drilled his out to accept a 5/16 wire then added robo struts, but the plastic in the block keeps breaking. (see photo) Also there are no flaps so you would need to put flaps in it especailly if you're new to flying these planes as the 60 does come in a little fast without them. (see photo) other than that it is a fun plane to fly after getting used to the PTS, he has the Saito 1.25 w/ APC 16x8 prop and it screams and has amazing vertical for those BIG loops.. The last photo is my PTS after mods to the tail, not nessacary for everyone.

Shane

lanny2003

I just used a small wire-tie.
Thanks

stashu

Hey, That P51 H9 for 119.95 sounds appealing. I add my own radio and engine. Has anybody built one of these 119.99 planes??.
I would like to see a manual, but I cannot find one online??----
thanks Stash

opjose

Go back about 10+ pages in this thread.

There are the first reports of people who received and built their ARF version.

gunfighter

My Feedback: (1)

As posted a page or two back, I have the $119.00 ARF version with a ST .45 and a MAC pipe. It is turning an 11X8 MAS 3 blade cut down to 10" and re-balanced. I did install the flap servo. Other than that - it is "Box Stock". No modifications at all! and it flies Fantastic! It has taken several HARD landings due to our VERY rough grass field with no damage at all. Speed is great - just above scale, and the aerobatics are very scale. I love it and would recommend this as a primary trainer to any one that has spent at least a little time on a simulator.

I do have a comment for the person trying to take off. If you "GUN IT" from a standing start, it WILL turn left in a hurry! Nearly any conventional geared (tail dragger) plane will do the same thing. If, however, you ease into the throttle while applying increasing right rudder to keep it straight (as the full scale Mustang pilots did) it will track straight and take off beautifully. You do not need full throttle to take off and start a gentle climb. You can continue to add throttle as you start your climb out. The old mustang pilots would advise - Keep adding throttle until you run out of rudder, then ease back on the stick!

I do plan to install a shorter gear wire with less forward "rake" to prevent the "bounce" that often occurs on landing. Other than this - mine will remain "stock".

This is truly a winner!

BTW - I did NOT do any of the "fixes" noted here - just did not think most of them were needed. (NOTE - I do not have the "trainer" engine, so those are irrelavent) Mine has somewhere near 125 flights on it now and NO problems except the "bounce" landing mentioned above. I, and others, put over a gallon of fuel through this plane this weekend and we all love it!
[8D]

stallwart

Stashu,

I "ARF'd" a PTS from second hand parts bought from a club member and a few new parts. The only thing different from buying the ARF version in my "build" was using a pre-cut cowling (no issue because I was mounting an EVO .46). The parts almost fell together.
Radio and servo installation could be done in the dark. I made most of the same mods that I had added to my first RTF version, but they were only about a third of those listed earlier by others. It balanced perfectly @ 4 1/4" from L.E. once completed.

(One of the most important things I've found that might be ignored by those of us new to R/C flying is----tighten the gear wires securely in place. Extra leverage produced by wobbling gear wires that are canted so far forward are what I believe cause most landing gear failures on this plane).

Get this plane--ARF or RTF. You'll love it. Next, for $220.00 or so, I might suggest the Modeltech or Avia Richmodel 90 size P-47 ARF, since they have flaps and allow intallation of optional retracts (Avia Richmodel can be purchased with basic Asian mechanical retracts included).

afineman

Greetings ALL

I have converted this plane to electric ( at least that is the plan )

Anyways, I am a slow builder ( even though it is an ARF), my plan is to do the maiden this comming weekend, here is how I have it set up ( DO NOT copy this setup untill the maiden, I'm not even sure it will fly Hee Hee Hee)

Typhoon 29/18/10, it is a 885 KV motor and is rated @ 600 to 750 watts (depending on the site you get the info from).

60 AMP ESC with a serpate 5 amp UBEC.

Powered with the new A123 Systems 2,300 MAH, 30C Li Ion batteries (6 in series)
as it stands now it appears I may get the correct CG @ 5.5 pounds, if all the math is correct it looks like I'll be getting a 1.3 to 1 thrust to weight raito ( I love the panic power).

I encluded a few photos of design #1 ( mounting the brushless face plate directly to the glow mount), design @ 2: is 4 plastic rods( same material as a PC board, but the spelling checker NEVER got the correct word) with Heli coils in end.

In the modified IC mount, I also used Heli coils.

Because I always video my maidens, I'll post it here, GOOD, BAD or even UGLY.

Later ALL

Brent

KingCobra79

Brent,

Looking forward to your results. I also am converting to electric. I am using E Flite 60 brushless motor on 4-1 inch standoffs bolted to blind nuts on firewall. Using Phoenix 80 esc and two 6000 mAh 11.1v Thunder Power packs. I haven't decided on a prop yet. Should be ready in about a week. (although I just chopped my finger today on F27 Stryker, so I may have to slow down a bit)

stashu

May I ask you approx. how much did it costs to go electric??

thanks!!

Stashu

afineman

stashu

Here is the motor ( these are good people to buy from) http://www.warbirds-rc.com/Store/hett291810.html $56.00

60 AMP ESC here ( OOHH bad customer support, make sure you know what you want) http://www.raidentech.com/60atoproelbr.html $36.00 after discount.

6 of these batteries http://www.a123systems.com/html/prod...650M1specs.pdf $120 ( make sure you know what you are doing before you try these batteries)

And an UBEC for $30.00.

Total higher that a Glow set up, BUT I wanted to test these batteries and if they work out these are the power source of the future ( total power to weight raito is less than a Lipo, BUT the C discharg rating and the C rating for charging is the selling point).


KingCobra79

A Stryker fan are we you may like this video ( 2 flight trying to get max speed, used an audio Doppler shift to measure speed) http://media.putfile.com/stry

Later ALL

Brent

BCarter

Hello All,
After reading serval posts on this site concerning the importance of testing batteries using a battery charger, discharger and conditioner I purchsed a Hobbico Pro Series Accu-Cycle. I have cycled my Tx sereral times now and so far it's told me that the batteries capacity is 582 mAh. I have two Rx batteries (i have 2 planes), one gave me 434 mAh, and the other 325. Are both of these acceptable? or is there a problem? What would the expected or acceptable mAh be? All batteries came with the original Mustang PTS and I have had them for approx 6 to 10 months. Any comments are appreciated.

** I do know a lot of people recommend going to the higher capacity batteries, my local Hobby Shop guy also told me though that in his 20+ years of flying he's always used similiar batteries without problem, even after flying all day. My style of flying is to go out for a couple of hours, usually getting about 7 to 10 flights in max. Twice now I have landed the plane and the servos have gone completely dead, I suspect it is the battery pack I mentioned above where it only have out 325 mAh, and I further suspect I will in fact be sending it back to Horizon for warrenty replacement.

As Always thanks for the responses.

Brian.

stallwart

Bcarter,

Sounds like you are a candidate for higher capacity batteries. Hitech 1100mAh nicad packs were recommended to me for 4.8v receiver systems and I now buy these. In cool weather, after 5-6 flights they read 4.6-4.7 volts. I'm sure with the hotter weather they would read lower, but I haven't thought to check lately after flying.

I cycle the batteries occasionally to be on the safe side, and make certain to adjust any "chattering" out of servos (including throttle servo at 2/3 to full speed throws). I trickle charge for 13-15 hours and never use a quick charger. The transmitter has the stock battery, with which I fly 2 planes a total of 10-12 flights per session. It's yet to beep a low voltage warning.

Soon, I plan to try a 1500mAh nickel metal hydride battery to see how it performs.

KingCobra79

My motor E-Flite Power 60 was $130, 80 amp ESC was $110, and the 2 batteries were $400, so $640.

KingCobra79

Brent,
Nice video. I can relate to throwing the wing into the ground. I will no longer launch with the power on, like I have been. Actually, I will look into installing a ducted fan on the F27.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Brian,
Stallwart is on the right track. There is alot to battery science and good sources for information are Red Shoelfield at the RC Battery Clinic or Steve Anthony from Hangtime Hobbies (NoBS Batteries), where I buy my packs. It is important to form charge each new Nicad or Nimh pack before putting that pack into service. A form charge is a slow charge 14-16 hours at C/10, followed by a discharge at C/5. This should be done three times with the fourth charge setting the capacity of that particular pack for later comparision purposes. Most packs after being form charged will read over the manufacturers stated capacity.

The Accucycle is not that flexible and is notorious for giving low readings and does not peak the pack. This is partially due to the factory cutoff voltage of the charger being set at 1.1v per cell. Battery manufacturers normally rate their cells at a cutoff value of 0.9v per cell. When the Hobbico Elite became available I did away with my Accucycle Pro for these very reasons and to have more flexibility. I can now charge Lithium batteries along with Nicad and Nimh and have found the Elite to be very reliable and accurate. About every 10-12 charge cycles or so, I slow charge my packs as Stallwart suggests. I use my Ace Digipulse overnight at C/10 for 16 hours and this helps balance the cells within the pack.

I would suggest that from your readings the TX pack is within limits and probably is fine. Both receiver packs are reading low enough that if the readings are accurate they should be trashed. Before throwing them away, see if a friend or fellow club member has an Elite, Triton or some other type of peak charger. Cycle the suspect packs three times and then see what the capacity readings are and go from there. When using a peak charger it is also recommended to change the peak sensitivity to 10mv for Nicads and 5mv for Nimh batteries. These are all things that are not user selectable with your Accucycle Pro, hence the problem with inaccurate readings. The original battery that came with my PTS would not cycle past 325ma after being form charged and double checked. Horizon replaced the pack and the new one cycles well past 600ma. Hope this helps ya .

duckling

Hi Guys,
Where can I get a two bladed spinner using a 11 x 7 two blade set-up for the P-51 PTS. The off the shelf spinner the hobby shop sold me touches the cowl. Thanks!

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

If your spinner is hitting you can just move the motor forward a hair until it clears the cowl, most all spinners will touch if the motor is to far back as there position on the flywheel is relatively the same for all.

olstoney, I also use the NoBS batteries and love them. I got one question, what does C/10 and C/5 refer too as far as charge rates? Also I was told to never go below 1.1V percell on a discharge, is it ok to go lower? I use the Accu-Cycle pro series Elite.

Shane

BCarter

I have yet to see a plastic spinner without that lip on the back, therefore I just bit the bullet and went ahead moving the engine forward about a 1/8 of an inch. I figured it would take less time to do that then actually find a perfect spinner. Since then I am always keeping an eye out for a spinner without that lip and I'm still looking. Just make sure you note the angle of the motor before you loosen it so you can make sure you put it back right. While your in there, you may think about replacing the Philip's screws with Cap head, and if you haven't done so already, tighten, locktite and replace the motor mount screws as well.

My 2 cents.


Thanks guys for the responses on the battery questions btw. Man! this hobby just gets more and more complicated, not that I'm complaining, but I just want to FLY!!!

tr21triton

the 2 3/4" great planes spinner has a flush backplate that will fit just like the original.the du bro spinner has a lip on it that causes it to hit the cowl.....

stallwart

In addition to the Great Planes spinners, Sig sells a plastic spinner with flush backplate. There are also several aluminium spinners (I like the cheaper TS and more expensive DB spinners) and some with plastic cone/ aluminium backplate, but I can't recall who markets them.
Since the plastic Dubro cone bolts to threaded metal nuts in the backplate, it is probably a better design than the other plastic cones.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Pit-Viper 1,
C/10 refers to the slow charge rate in milliamps or 1/10th. In the case of a 600ma battery this would be 60ma. C/5 refers to the discharge rate and in this case is about 250ma. You are correct that the pack should not be discharged regularly with a cutoff voltage lower than 1.1V per cell. Once a pack has been form charged and the given capacity has been determined cycling with a 1.1V cutoff should be used for your capacity guide.

My point is that with a 1.1V cutoff the pack may or may not show it's rated capacity. It is important to note this because most manufaturers use a 0.9V cutoff to rate the cells, so obviously there is a 0.2V difference. Therefore simply put a 0.9V cutoff must be used if you are checking for rated capacity per the manufacturers specifications.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

OK thanks, I thought thats what you meant just never heard it like that before. I took your advice and put it too work on my packs as I was getting the same low mah reading after each charge. I was told that the amount of Mah that is displays while charging is the amount that was used and what is being replaced, does that sound right? My packs are now back up too par after 2 cycles, I thought these NoBS bats. were good before, prob fly most of the day with them now. Been getting almost 2hrs flight time on "1" 1100MAh pack. Thanks for the advise.


Shane

wow460

in response to what dark wombat said,there is an arf version for 109.00 that does not include the radio or engine or anything.although this does not solve your building fix you can buy and equip your own radio.

Abaco24

A Tru-Turn 2 3/4 works fine too with an 11X6 prop, used MAS on mine.

All the "mods" a few posts up just seem to me to be tinkering. I haven't made any mods to mine and it flys fine. Of course tinkering in the hoppy shop is always fun, but I haven't had any problems from the start flying as it came, which I think is H9's goal for most beginner pilots buying this plane.

opjose

No, many are ABSOLUTELY essential.

E.G. hardening the landing gear blocks, fixing the mixture needle "walking", fuel proofing, cutting the cowl to prevent low speed idle from binding, etc.

This plane needs work to correct inherent manufacturing (QC) problems out of the box. Once done it is very nice.