stallwart

As suggested, replace the clunk line. Great Planes 3/32 blue tubing is more flexible than Hangar 9's, and should do the trick. Just don't allow the clunk to rest on the bottom of the tank when the stopper end is straight up.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Yeah you don't want your clunk to fall to the front of the tank when you vertical, if thats what you mean. The clunk will get stuck for sure. You just want it to move freely to all four corners on the bottom of the tank.

KingCobra79

Brent,
Great video, and thanks for the info. Mine is still waiting for the 80A ESC from RCToys. 3 weeks and still waiting-how do these guys stay in business???

BCarter

As per the hobby shop guy, I charged at C/10 which is 10% of the capacity of the battery. this means 125 mha on my charger, I do have a lower setting, however the guy said you don't want to charge too slow. I did discharge the battery before I charged it.

Thanks for the response.

afineman

KingCobra79

Thanks for the comments

I'll be doing some more testing this weekend.

If you want I can forward you the link to the videos/chat about this electric conversion/new battery testing.

OOHH and just for laughs here is the 2nd attempted flight, the 3rd and the actual 2nd flight, OOHH no repairs needed after the crash (except prop change OOHH dual rate sw was in the middle SSOO NO RATE[&o]) http://media.putfile.com/p51-1

Brent

KingCobra79

Brent,
OK, sure, thanks.
Al

dshemelrick

well three flights and prop disintegrated mid air and 80% of plane is still in fifty to sixty foot tree and horizon -hobby said to ship it to them so iguess ill have to get chain saw out and send it all to em,how much to ship a tree with a plane in it. they were rude about it and thats the end of my pts.me ill just start buying from tower hobbies from now on cause ive never had a problem getting service from them.

opjose

The prop disintegrates?

Are you talking about the standard prop included with the PTS?

I thought everyone changed it out ASAP. It's a lousy prop.

I was sent a replacement PTS for a completely different reason (see prior posts), not only were they quite nice about this, but they were prompt and apologetic.

You may have gotten someone on a bad day. When this happens to me with any company, I usually call back to "check" the next day at some other time... so as not to get the same person again.

I've found both companies equally responsive to problems.

dshemelrick

yes a stock prop,new from box put together and took out to fly,bought it for a sunday flyer because tired of loading trailer to take my bigger planes out and thought it would be fun and it was till then

opjose

Sorry to hear it.

Yet another reason NOT to use the stock prop...



Along these lines...


I had a crash with my PTS P-51.

A post flight autopsy revealed that the white fuel tubing going from the mixture valve to the carb had cracked open at the carb in flight.

The included tubing has rather thin walls.

I'd avise everyone to change it out for stock medium fuel tubing, that usually has much thicker walls but same diameter opening.

dshemelrick

bought a pulse xt to relpace it but last horizon purchase for me wrote them and talked to them,no satisfaction with the deal and hobby shop owner is nice guy here and i still buy stuff from him but nothing labled horizon hobby on it,any one have any os 1.20 very old parts laying about.

tr21triton

well my replacement for my (mid air collision) lost pts is finished.this one has a super tigre g-51 on it's nose and should sho enough get it.i'm hoping to fly her monday if we get a break from the heat here in georgia

dshemelrick

I know about the heat coulnt fly this week has been 108 to 111 here and im not going out till it gets to 90s at least but would like to see 80s again.Have to go to lhs and pick up the trainer i ordered to keep people from flying my good planes

cwalke32477

MAN! You all complain about wind too much. If i didn't fly when it was windy, I would never be flying as it is always windy here in North Georgia.

I quite enjoy enjoy "hovering" my p51 in a 20mph head on wind

P.S. no training gear on this bird, took it off after first flight. Only use flaps for landing - make a big difference in the amount of BOUNCE you get with the gear on this thing

afineman

Hey All

Another video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBz3Adotuf8\

I found a problem with the A123 new Li-Ion batteries, they fade really fast, in 1 segment of the video I'm going WOT then next segment, I'm dead sticking it in.

Anyways, today I was more relaxed and enjoyed the flight, with the set up I have, I have power galore (rather than abort the first take off I floored it, went vertical over the tree).

I am really curious, U guys that fly this stock, is there a difference ( my flight video) vs your experience. Just curious, thanks

Brent

1080tommy

I needsome help with tuning the PTS. I have about 20 flights on this plane. Last eek when I was flying on the first flight of the day on landing the engine sputtered and almost died causing a near crash. AFter I brought her in and checked her out everything seemed ok. Went back up for three flights with no problems. When cleanin up to leave, I notice a black hexhead screw where the plane was just sitting. I looked into the cowl and found that the carb screw and two cam locks had fallen out and the carb was still attached but very loose. When I got home I of course removed the cowl and saw what had happened and reinstalled the carb locks and screw. Now comes the bad part. When the engine starts it needs almost full throttle trim on the radio to idle. When the throttle is brought dow to where it was normally the plane dies out. If I advanc to full throttle, it runs geat and does not sputter or even attempt to die, however when the throttle is brought back to idle, it runs for bout 30 seconds and then slowy dies out until it is no longer running. Basically, the problem is that the plane will not idle, but when advanced to full throttle it runs great. I kow this is almost impossible to diagnose not seeing the engine running, but maybe one of you guys has seen something like this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated becuase I a grounded until I find out what is going on. Thanks.

Tom

1080tommy

Sorry about my typing in the last post, my computer is now also acting up!!!!!!!!!![:@]

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds like when you put your carb back on you didn't get it in the same spot as it was. Just loosen up the grub screw on the throttle servo, then make sure the idle is all the way down and the throttle cut switch is in the kill position. Then just pull or push the throttle linkage until the carb is fully closed and tighten the grub screw. After this is done check to be sure that you get full open and closed with the radio. Should be ready to go at this point.


Shane

1080tommy

Thanks Viper. I tried what you said and adjusted the linkage to the throttle servo. The results were pretty much the same. The plane wil not idle and both mixtures are off no matter what the position of the needle valves. I took the cowl back off and noticed that the carb was not all the way down by about a 32 of an inch or so. I tried to push the carb down and it did move in towards the motor. I then tightened the carb locks down will try again tomorrow. If anyone else has any input please let me know I am new to this hobby and could use all the help I can get. Thanks. For now Im grounded.[>:]


Tom

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Tom, if the carb isn't going down all the way try loosening the carb up and be sure that both pieces that hold against the carb are lined up correctly with the carb. neck. Sometimes the piece on the oppisite side of the screw will be in to far and won't allow the carb to seat properly. If it's not seating after that take the carb out and visualy inspect the inside of the motor where the carb goes to be sure there isn't any obstructions in the way and that the washer at the botom is flat. Just curious, have you changed plugs in it? If so be sure to use an OS type "F" plug or something similar like the hangar 9 super plug pn#HAN3011 as these motors don't use 2-stroke plugs, they use 4-stroke plugs. Then reset the needles, usually about 2 1/2 turns out on the top needle is good and be sure that the low speed needle is flush with the outside edge. This should be a good starting point. If it won't start from these settings just lean the high speed needle 1/8-1/4 turn at a time until it starts. Then richen it back up slightly after it warms up for about 1 min.

Good luck

Shane

inurocker

Well after lurking and one week of reading this thread and most everything I could find on the Internet. I got my PTS Wednesday and have been putting it together doing all the improvements and mod's. I am a new be and just learning to fly with the help of a very experienced instructor but any and all help will be appreciated. Has anyone solved the chattering growling problem with the flaps servo. I have removed all of the trash on the hinge slots and eased wood around the control horn stalks they are moving much more freely now. I have also tried setting the throws in the TX still there. If I apply slight pressure to the flap it will stop but I know if I don't get a handle on this it will shorten batt. flight time. I read somewhere in the thread that it could be low voltage form the factory batt. or needs to be a higher torque servo.
I love this place so much great knowledge on this plane.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Ed

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Just be sure that it isn't binding anywhere first. Mine first one did the same thing and it ended up being the two rods in the wing that you attatch the servo rods to for the flaps. I had to trim a little bit out to allow it to move fully then it stopped. If you have a good 6.0V (5 cell) pack you can use try to hook it up and see if that helps. I ended up using a different radio where I could put the flap control on a dial to control the amount of flap used. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Good luck.


Shane

opjose

Yes, as the above poster said, you do not NEED a different radio though. The provided one has more than sufficient sub-trim and throw adjustments... (for a "pack in" radio it's quite nice actually...)

On my first PTS I could never fully eliminate the flap chatter initially.

What I did was to pull off the wing, disconnect the linkages, and bend the flaps as far up as I could safely and as far down as I could, to loosen them as much as possible. Move them up and down many times to loosen the hinges...

I also cut a little bit more wood out of the opening in the wing top to assure no binding at the extremes.

Finally I adjusted the servo so that in the UP position there would be just a little "down" flap, and in the down position I changed the throw amount to slightly less than what is specified.

This for the most part eliminated the chatter, but not completely... at times I'd still hear a little.

Remember that when the engine is running the plane is subject to some vibration, that same vibration will "nudge" the flap servo enough in flight to stop the chattering.


As the plane wears in things get much better...


If you want to be safe, install a bigger battery... I installed a 2000mah battery to permit me to fly all day long w/o recharging.


On my second PTS I purchased an ARF, and installed the aileron and flaps myself. Needless to say, these travel freely with no servo chatter what so ever.

inurocker

Thanks guys. I have tried and done all of the thing you recommended except a larger Batt.
It is better but it still is annoying me. I just like thing to work right.
I was already planing on a larger batt.
I may try a high torque servo. I will post my results.

I can't wait to fly it !
Thanks again

opjose

I tried a high torque servo as well. It didn't really help.

The servo is trying to "seek" a fixed position, that is is having problems getting to that final point.

Even with the high torque servo this happens as it is trying to get to a relatively TINY increment.

With the engine running, the vibration is more than enough to "bump" the servo into position in spite of resistance from the flaps.

Don't worry so much about it, the strain on the battery is very small. What is more worrysome is when you hear the servo chattering like crazy attempting to reach a point that it cannot move to.

The minor clicks will disappear in flight and as the plane wears in.