Super Cub engine instalation!
#1
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From: Luanda, ANGOLA
Hi guys,
I am putting together an H9 super cub and using a G26, I know lots of guys have done this setup.
I need some pictures of the engine throttle setup and do you keep the carb intake horn or do you take it out on the G26? how does the muffler and carb fit inside the cowl?
I am putting together an H9 super cub and using a G26, I know lots of guys have done this setup.
I need some pictures of the engine throttle setup and do you keep the carb intake horn or do you take it out on the G26? how does the muffler and carb fit inside the cowl?
#2

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I am not sure if my G-23 setup will help, but I will take pictures of it if you want. I had to use approximately 3/4 of an inch of lite ply to bring the engine forward the right amount.
You will love this plane, it is a joy to fly. I eventually will add Robart gear on this plane. Let me know if you want the pictures of the G-23.
Lee
You will love this plane, it is a joy to fly. I eventually will add Robart gear on this plane. Let me know if you want the pictures of the G-23.
Lee
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From: Luanda, ANGOLA
DrDeath
You can post the pictures of your G23 please.
The ply bloc that comes with the kit wasnt enought to bring the engine foward?
You can post the pictures of your G23 please.
The ply bloc that comes with the kit wasnt enought to bring the engine foward?
#4

My Feedback: (3)
Tiago Dias
The 1/4 inch block is about 1/2 inch to thin. There was a bulletin on Hanger 9's website about this. The bulletin may not be there now since the plane is discontinued. I will try to post the pictures later today or tomorrow. I have some family obligations to do and will be running around.
Lee
The 1/4 inch block is about 1/2 inch to thin. There was a bulletin on Hanger 9's website about this. The bulletin may not be there now since the plane is discontinued. I will try to post the pictures later today or tomorrow. I have some family obligations to do and will be running around.
Lee
#5

My Feedback: (3)
Sorry it took me so long Tiago I have been pretty busy. Here are the pictures.
1 and 4 are pictures of the throttle linkage
2 shows how much 1/4 ply I added to bring the engine forward enough to have clearance for the prop.
3 shows the ground location and switch
5 shows the gas setup and fuel dot
Hope these help
Lee
P.S. I also had to fix my Funtana 90. After a year and half of flying I had ripped the gear out on a windy day on a dead stick landing with the tail wind
. Wind pushed the plan up and it stalled at about 8 - 10 feet. I was able to flatten it out before it dropped. Only damage was the gear came out. I have glued that block back in and will cover the hole tomorrow.
1 and 4 are pictures of the throttle linkage
2 shows how much 1/4 ply I added to bring the engine forward enough to have clearance for the prop.
3 shows the ground location and switch
5 shows the gas setup and fuel dot
Hope these help
Lee
P.S. I also had to fix my Funtana 90. After a year and half of flying I had ripped the gear out on a windy day on a dead stick landing with the tail wind
. Wind pushed the plan up and it stalled at about 8 - 10 feet. I was able to flatten it out before it dropped. Only damage was the gear came out. I have glued that block back in and will cover the hole tomorrow.
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From: Luanda, ANGOLA
Ok...
I am having some problems with the engine installation on the cub. Apparently the bolt pattern for the G 26 is different.
I would like to see some pictures of the throttle setup on a G 26 as the carb is placed in a very different position from the G 23, also does anyone know what is the difference in length from the G 23 to the G 26 so that I know what is the exact distance form the firewall to the prop hub?
I am having some problems with the engine installation on the cub. Apparently the bolt pattern for the G 26 is different.
I would like to see some pictures of the throttle setup on a G 26 as the carb is placed in a very different position from the G 23, also does anyone know what is the difference in length from the G 23 to the G 26 so that I know what is the exact distance form the firewall to the prop hub?
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From: Luanda, ANGOLA
Sorry I don't understand what does the carb spacer as to do with anything, but yes it does have a black spacer but its not the same as the one you have on your engine.
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From: Peachtree City, GA
Couple issues.
First is the wood backplate is wrong size. message below shows how to correct. Found that you need a thicker pcs than 1/4". Measure distance for standoff after you put on the first backplate. Could not find the drawing but call the number below and they will send you the drawing file.
Second is a slot needs to be cut for stock muffler to fit but it is OK. Pictures below.
On carb set up mine was streight forward if you have the adapter to turn the carb. Mine came already mounted.
"Adapter Plate Thickness Issue
It has come to our attention that the thickness of the adapter plate for the G23 and G26 engines is too thin to allow the cowling to be mounted properly. We have also found that the inner three holes do not have the proper spacing to mount the plate onto the engine.
To correct this, you will need a 3" by 4" piece of ¼" plywood. Attach a copy of the downloadable drawing listed below to use as a template. You will need to drill 4 - 5/32" holes to mount the plate on the firewall, a ¾" hole for clearance of the crankshaft, and 3 - 13/64" holes to mount the plate on the engine. On the 3 holes to mount the plate on the engine, use a counter sink bit or a 27/64" or 3/8" drill bit to countersink the 3 engine mount holes enough to get the screw heads flush with the plywood.
Then mount this plate onto the engine as stated in the instruction manual in step 4G on page 34. Then use both the plate that came in the kit, and the plate you just made onto the firewall with 4 screws as in step 5G also on page 34.
In some limited cases the thickness may need to be increased slightly to get the cowl on properly, in this case you can add a couple washers in between the plate and the engine.
If you have any further concerns, please contact our product support team for further assistance to resolve this issue. You can call us at our toll free number at 877-504-0233 or email at [email protected]. Be sure to include your name and shipping address. "
Adapter Plate Thickness Issue
It has come to our attention that the thickness of the adapter plate for the G23 and G26 engines is too thin to allow the cowling to be mounted properly. We have also found that the inner three holes do not have the proper spacing to mount the plate onto the engine.
To correct this, you will need a 3" by 4" piece of ¼" plywood. Attach a copy of the downloadable drawing listed below to use as a template. You will need to drill 4 - 5/32" holes to mount the plate on the firewall, a ¾" hole for clearance of the crankshaft, and 3 - 13/64" holes to mount the plate on the engine. On the 3 holes to mount the plate on the engine, use a counter sink bit or a 27/64" or 3/8" drill bit to countersink the 3 engine mount holes enough to get the screw heads flush with the plywood.
Then mount this plate onto the engine as stated in the instruction manual in step 4G on page 34. Then use both the plate that came in the kit, and the plate you just made onto the firewall with 4 screws as in step 5G also on page 34.
In some limited cases the thickness may need to be increased slightly to get the cowl on properly, in this case you can add a couple washers in between the plate and the engine.
If you have any further concerns, please contact our product support team for further assistance to resolve this issue. You can call us at our toll free number at 877-504-0233 or email at [email protected]. Be sure to include your name and shipping address.
Bill



