KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Ichy,

Yeah, I chickened out..I got to that point in the build before you posted your flight results, so I just went with the stock install on the rudder. I still like the way yours looks a lot better and might modify it later on.

Dave

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

Well, I went out and bought some white and black self adhesive Monokote trim and covered the gear doors and edges of the wheel wells. I was afraid that I would just mess things up if I tried to paint, but it didn't turn out half bad this way. Thanks to everyone for all the tips so far. Oh, and I know that my "No Guts No Glory" sticker is in the wrong place, but I didn't think far enough ahead and mounted my switch and charge jack right where it should have gone...oh well. I tried to place it where I thought it looked more like some of the common nose art on P-47's, between the cowl and canopy.

Dave

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

And just a couple more...

Super Sean

My Feedback: (15)

For the first time i ran my p-47 with a YS 110. i was very happy with all the power. although after i ran it i was cleaning the plane and noticed the paint on the bottom of the belly pan was coming of and was very sticky. I was very dissapointed. i wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem. I probably will call up Horizion and talk to them about it.

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Super Sean,
I have heard of at least one other person whose belly pan was not fuel proof (I believe their post was early in this thread). As I recall, he solved the problem with a coat of clear LustreKote or similar product. I have been flying my Jug for several months and have not experienced the problem.
John

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Dave, don't fret about the 'No Guts No Glory' thing......you just expressed your individualism! [sm=rolleyes.gif]

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

I'm almost afraid to ask (mainly because I think I know the answer and it involves a good bit of work), but how do I adjust the retracts so they go up in the wheel well more when they are up? It looks like they have a little play in them when they are retracted and I don't exactly know how to adjust that. I think it involves removing them from the wing, adjusting the linkage, reinstalling them, testing them, and so on...

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi...

I'm just began assembling the H9 P-47. Epoxied the wing panels and mounted it on the fuse with the supplied bolts. I was ready to mount the belly pan and discovered one of the formers came out. I glued it in and then was ready to draw its outline on the wing. If I move the pan full forward to leave only a small opening where it meets the wing I measured about a 3/16" gap between the rear of the pan and the fuse. Is that large a gap normal because I'm concerned about getting oil/fuel in either of the two gaps. I will fuelproof those areas anyway but that large a gap on either front or back looks crummy. Dis you run into the same situation? If so, how did you resolve the problem? I could fill the gap with 1/4" balsa and maybe I could find a paint to match but I'd rather ask around before I start adding mods and weight to the plane. Thanks in advance...

Ed

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Ed,
Many builders have had loose formers in the belly pan (mine had two loose). A gap between the wing and belly pan is usual in this model, and H9 provided a narrow strip of Ultracote to cover the gap. 3/16" sounds like a bit wider gap than I recall on my Jug, but I do recall using a piece of scrap covering to add to an area where the supplied strip wasn't wide enough.
John

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

John...


Thanks for the reply. I'm not too concerned about the gap on either side of the belly pan running parallel to the fuse but about the gap at the rear of the pan when I have it positioned full forward. I guess I could fill the gap with some lite ply and scrounge around for some paint or use the covering hat I remove from below the pan. Guess I'll flip a coin. I expect to use a Saito .91 and am seriously considering pneumatic retracts but don't want to butcher the wing panel to make them fit.

Thanks...

Ed

Ichy

Ed, I have a large gap as well. Even though I have flown mine, I am going to do some more work on it. I have some of the silver covering that I will iron on the fuse at both ends for fuel proof but will not add anything else. I can't see it when it's on it's wheels and I can't see it in the air. But I agree, it's dosen't fit well.

Dave, I don't think that there is anything in the linkage that you can change to help you out. I think, that the only way is to bend the gear wire or shim the retract. I may be wrong though!

Root, I hope you figured the retract servo out. Not sure how to advise other than there is a certain distance on the servo arms that the connections have to made. should be listed in the manual.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I had the gap as well; I made the gap at the front of the belly pan, then I found a roll of some gray self adhesive foam weather stripping from Home Depot; it was 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick; I made a gasket; stuck a length of it to the inside of the fuse where it meets the belly pan; works great; keeps the oil and gas out, and the color blends in with plane; the roll was 8 feet long so I have plenty to replace it as needed. As far as the gap between the belly pan and wing; the strips of Ultracoat provided is useless, bought a roll of the stuff and covered the gaps.

As far as upgrading to pneumatic retracts; it is worth the effort; a bit of work to get them to fit, but several of us have done so and have not regretted the effort; I posted several pictures in this thread of my efforts.

Doug.

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Ichy...

Thanks for the reply. I was going to call Horizon and ask them about the problem but I guess it's not unusual. Im just concerned not so much about the esthetics but about the wood getting oil-soaked. I put a coat of finishing resin on the former that the wing plugs into and the rear saddle where the wing bolts are locatedas well as on the outside of the firewall. I just hate to buy a roll of Ultracote to take care of the problem. I appreciate your response and may post a few more questions as I continue building. Thanks...

Ed

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Doug...

Thanks for the quick response. I may go to Home Depot to try to locate that weatherstripping. I'm just concerned about the wood becoming fuel-soaked. I thought about another way which is using some lite ply and epoxying this piece to the back piece nearest the bolts. Than get some Ultracote aluminum color paint and spray it. I used finishing epoxy for fuelproofing the wood that makes up the former where the wing bolts plug into and also in the area of the wing bolts. I guess it's no big deal, tho.

I read the entire thread especially concerning the pneumatics and frankly I got a little confused. which retracts are you using and are you using robostruts? I like the robostrut idea because I fly off grass. Will be using a Saito 91 and I'm just a little concerned about the additional weight of the struts. Did you post any photos of the interior as far as mounting the air tank and valve are concerned? How much did you have to modify the wheel wells? Do you fly off grass or hardtop and how are the retracts/struts holding up? Thanks again...








I had the gap as well; I made the gap at the front of the belly pan, then I found a roll of some gray self adhesive foam weather stripping from Home Depot; it was 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick; I made a gasket; stuck a length of it to the inside of the fuse where it meets the belly pan; works great; keeps the oil and gas out, and the color blends in with plane; the roll was 8 feet long so I have plenty to replace it as needed. As far as the gap between the belly pan and wing; the strips of Ultracoat provided is useless, bought a roll of the stuff and covered the gaps.

As far as upgrading to pneumatic retracts; it is worth the effort; a bit of work to get them to fit, but several of us have done so and have not regretted the effort; I posted several pictures in this thread of my efforts.

Doug.
[/quote]

oldtyme

techsarge,

I converted to the Robart 511's and added the Robostruts. With the gear doors in place,
you don't see much wire and they retract fully into the wing. The doors stick out a small amount
but good enough is perfect. There was hardly any wing modification necessary. I removed
the liners, used my Dremel to make the area where the retract mounts slightly larger, filled
the stock holes, drilled new holes, cut the liners to fit around the new retract mechanism's,
repinstalled the liners and fit in the wires/Robostruts. They work good and look good. The
511's (economy as they are called) are a nice choice for this model without going broke and spending
more on the gear than you did on the model.

By the way, I also have a gap and had to epoxy the formers back in my belly pan.

Regards,
Andy

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I fly off of Paved Runway; but have landed hot and run off into the grass; my Robarts with the Robostruts work great; no probems so far; the retracts I used were these

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAYN7

and I used these Robostruts

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXES94

the retracts come with wire gear; however the Robostruts fit right inside the socket that normally holds the sleeves that holds the wire gear in place. also went with larger wheels, I used the Robarts Diamond tread scale wheels; I think they were 3 1/2" or 3 3/4" dia; I didn't use the wheel wells that came with the plane; I used balsa and built some wells into the wing; see the pictures I posted earlier in the thread; there is a picture of the inside of the fuse showing the valves and the tank is under the valves and tail feather servos; as far as the weight of all this extra stuff; I use a RCV 91CD 4 stroke with a 12X8 3 blade Prop; pulls the plane aroud with all kinds of authority; that 91 Saito will work just as good; My plane weighs in at 12 lbs; also, made my own gear doors out of thinply and tricked it out with inside gear doors that operate on seperate air cylinders; pictures of this are also posted earlier, check them out; the pictures start at POST#497, Page 20

I hope this helps; it was a bit of work, but the results are awesome.

Doug.

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

hi, Andy...

THanks for the information. Sounds like it might be the way to go for me also. I want to keep the cost down and I'm slow trying to get things done and I don't want to take on a major project. I assume that you used the 511RS. Did you use the 650 or 653 with the offset? I'm not sure what to do about the gap with the belly pan. What I may do is remove more covering under the belly pan, fuelproof the bare wood and use that covering for the gaps. As I saids before, it probably is no big deal. I'm going to deal with the belly pan tomorrow and hope fully it will go smoothly. Appreciate your advice...

Ed

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Doug...

Looks like you did a super job with those retracts. Great pix! Nice touch with those inside gear doors. That sure would be a challenge for me. I noticed you used the straight Robostruts. Did you have to cut them down to size? Did you do anything special to reinforce the point where the retracts attach or anywhere else in the wing when you made the wheel wells larger? I kinda like the Robart economy retracts for the price but your setup looks really nice. I'm at the point where I'll mount the belly pan tomorrow and the tail feathers over the weekend. I think at that poijnt I'll have to make a decision as to which retracts I'll go with. I appreciate you comments on the Saito and will look at your photos a little more closely before I make a decision. Have a nice weekend and thanks again...

Ed

oldtyme

Ed,

I went with the 650's. The P47 had an ever so slight offset that the straight Robostruts are close to scale than anything. These are the same Robostruts that I'm going to use in my Top Flite P47 Kit. As for the belly pan........don't sweat it.......just make it the best you can and forget it. If you want, email me at [email protected] and I'll try to send you some pictures of the gear installation. This was my first pneumatic installation and it went well. I'm using this bird as a test bed for my kit building. If I can help I will. I've been building for 25 years so I've picked up a few tricks along the way. I've only recently been playing with the warbirds. I'm a kit builder but wanted a couple of ARF's for practice flying warbirds.

Cheers,
Andy

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Techsarge;

I had to shorten the Robostruts about 3/8 to 1/2"; no problem, used a tube cutter; something to consider about the 511 Economy Retracts, they air Air Up and Spring Down; which means when you take the wing off and disconnect the air or empty the air tank the retracts will deploy; could be problem when transporting and storing; as far as the work involved to install the retract upgrade; you have to widen the distance between the mounting rails because the upgraded retracts are slightly wider, and because I wanted the retracts to retract flush I removed about 3/16" off the thickness of the mounting rails thus lowering the rails allowing the retracts to sit deeper in the wing; I then reinforced the entire mounting area with epoxy and glass cloth; as far as the wheel wells; I didn't make the opening any bigger; when you remove the plastic wells the opening is plenty big to accept larger wheels like I had done, to make a wheel well I just glued in pieces of 1/8"balsa sheeting, to close off the wheel wells from the rest of the interior of the wing; essentially making walls for the wells; sealing it off and preventing the airstream from entering the wing interior; I also epoxied the entire wheel well interior, espeacially the floor/roof of the wheel well which is the underside of the top surface of the wing, didn't want the wheels busting through the balsa when they are retracted; your reply gave me the impression that you have the wing haves glued together; this may make it difficult to do a retract upgrade; I completed my retracts first before I glued the halves together, and I suspect thats what others did as well; I could be wrong, but it just made sense to do the retracts first; that weather stripping I mentioned, I may have got it from Lowes.

Doug.

oldtyme

Doug,

I have not had problems transporting my bird with the retracts in the down position. I left the liners
in because retracting flush was not a concern to me, I'll probably think more about it when I build my
TF P47.

techsarge........I'm not sure what the 511RS is but I did not buy the Robostrut ready version. I think it was Old Navy Flyer that discovered that if you use those with the 650's the struts are too short. I went with the wires and fit my Robostruts right up against the "coils" and they work fine. Had to redesign mounting the gear doors though. I made a spacer out of balsa and then made some U-bolts out of 2-56 threaded rod and used small 2-56 nuts. Cut off the rod with a cut off wheel after the nuts were on and it made a neat application.

Andy

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Oldtyme & Techsarge

Wasn't sure if there was any difficulty with the 511 Economy; I just assummed that there might be.

As far as the Retracts and Robostruts; Old Navy Flyer and Myself used the same set up, the retracts were the 'Robart 551W1 85 degree mains 3/16" wire(not Robo Strut ready) and we used the Robart 660 Straight RoboStruts 7/16"dia. We discarded the 3/16" wire struts and the robostruts fit inside of the socket on the retracts, normally to mount the wire gear, a 7/16" dia sleeve holds the wire which then fits inside this socket; we had to cut off about 3/8 to 1/2" off the robostruts, they fit snug inside the retract socket and are plenty long enough and work well, and have a more scale apperance.

I hope this clarifies stuff a little, this retract stuff can get confusing.

Doug.

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Doug...

Thanks alot for all the information. You really did a super job on the P-47. The photos speak for themselves. I'll have to decide what to do now that I've allready epoxied the wing panels. I imagine I would have to run air lines to the retract and these lines would have to be fished to the opening provided for the retract servo. Looks like with the 7/16" struts you have plenty of leeway now in the event the landing is a little hard. Thanks again for all your time and help and hopefully I'll decide what to do in the next couple of days. Have a nice holiday weekend.....

Ed

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

Finally, I'm all done. I've got the G90 mounted in the standard position with a Pitts muffler and a couple of exhaust extensions that I shortened so there wouldn't be too much loss in RPM's. I'm still breaking the engine in, but I'm hoping to take her up tomorrow depending on how I have the engine running...wish me luck.

Ichy

LUCK