perche

Hi! i have the 300s 140.

Its a animal

i have a sc 180fs in it. Strong plane! flyes slow,with no bad incidents. great fun.

The covering........thats a difrent story....

cjoker5475

thanks for the reply back. what is the CG on it. and does it fly pretty stable or is it real out of balance feeling. anyone else have anything.

perche

The cg is as the manual says, exactly on the wing tube. its werry stable, and a real "floater" engine cut on the maiden, Just after take off) but no problem, sailed like a feather

Enormusly stong plane!!! you wont rip the gear of this one..werry wel built. but covering needs some att. i am replasing most of the trimm. rollrate like a elecrtic drill on extecy.

cjoker5475

what servo's do u recommend.I what at least the minimum recommendation.And how many.

perche

I use Hitec Digital HS5955TG on elevator (2) and 1 one rudder. But i guess Hitec Digital HS-5645MG is fine too, and at almost half the price.

On the ailerons i use 5.5kg futaba "standad" (2) . Go for Hitec Digital HS-5645MG all the way!


Thomas

cjoker5475

im using jr servos but i dont know what jr servos to get because i dont know what the recommended minimum torque and speed.

cjoker5475

also .did you use any of the hardware.if not what did you have to get and where.and do you have any pics of your setup,because this is my first gasser. and i dont have any clue on how to put all the electronics in and where it all goes. like the receivers and batteries switches.etc. thanks for any help

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

joker, i would guess standard (+-40oz) for ailerons & elevator (one for each half) and a stronger (70 oz+) for rudder

that's what i'm getting for a similar size Sukhoi

use this table to calculate just to make sure:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/eflight/calcs_servo.htm

V.

f104g

I also have that version of the the Extra 300S 140.

Only had about 10 flights on it so far, but I'm prettty impressed with it so far. Really flies great. Very stable in the air and on landing. One of few models I've flown which needed very little trimming on it's maiden flight.

Canopy attachment has caused me some issues so far, but I think I have that sorted now.

Mine is powered by an SPE 40cc gasser. A great combination for me.

Groundhugger

Conclusion to story," don't buy a Neon when you want a Rolls ". In other words no matter who the manufacture is of the plane you are going to run into problems and must be aware of this when you buy. Expect to have to make modifications on ARF's. These things aren't made by robots. They are put together in third world countries. By pepole who make very little money for doing so. You don't always get what you pay for. I've heard the same complaints on this fourm about CMP on other forums about more expensive craft, including H9.
It's all about expectations. These are ARF's "Almost Ready TO Fly". Expect to do some work, somtimes more then you would like. I have a Will Hobby Spitfire. This plane has the best covering job I have ever seen. Not a single ripple or crease. Yes I have had to make modifications but I expected that. Yes the instructions suck but if you have any modeling skill its a piece of cake. I my opinion ARF's are for people who have built r/c planes but no longer have the time to do so. If you have a problem with doing mods on ARF's to get them flying you should spend your time and money on RTF's. Then if things aren't perfect you have a reason to complain. Complaints should be limted to missing parts, damaged parts and badly covered aircraft, point out what needs to be improved. When you make mods to ARF's you change the crafts CG. Its not always the manufactures fault, there are many factors to consider and it all comes done to the weight of the components and there placement. Instead of wineing try finding solutions to problems and sharing them with others . Bashing a product helps no one especially when the problem is that makeing the mods required is beyond a persons building skill level. Stick to your skill level even with an ARF. If you want it perfect have it custom built.

perche

Do you have black trim on the red on the wings?

cjoker5475

thats the same engine im putting in mine and i was wasndering how it flies. actually its a bcma.40 which is the same thing.what size spinner are you using.and what prop are you using.

f104g

no, the trim is all standard. I've got some of the covering lifting a little on the fuse near the firewall, otherwise so far everything is fine.

The 40cc is very easy to start due to the CDI ignition system, and balances the model just great. I'm using a master airscrew 20x10 classic prop. This combo can pull the Extra around the sky very well, although it seems to lose energy in the vertical fairly quickly. I will be trying other props to see how they perform in the air. I'm sure those using a similar size glo motor are getting a much better power/weight ration than me, but that's cool. And there's plenty of flight time in the supplied tank (converted to gas) for the 40cc. Long enough for me anyway.

There are other posts around on RCU in relation to the Extra not being a 3D model, and I would agree with that. But I'm still happy with it never-the-less.

perche

CAn it handle a 50cc?

cjoker5475

thanks for all the info.my plane should be here thursday and im trying to get everything together when it gets here. my biggest problem is dont know how to set everything in the plane . like where the receiver goes.and the batteries for the ignition and receiver.and the switches.im new to gas planes .i had nitro 40 size planes but this my intro to gas and big planes. do you happen to have pictures of your setup inside your fuselage.

f104g

The set up for this model is much the same as what you've done before for your .40 size. Not sure if this is the kind of detail you need, but here goes.

If you're using a gasser motor similer to the SPE 40cc, then at least 2 battery packs are required. 1 for the Rx, the other for the ignition system. I use 1800 mAh NimH 6v packs for both. Obviously 2 switches are required, 1 for each system.

I have the Rx and it's battery pack situated behind the servo mounting tray. The CDI ignition module and it's battery pack are situated in the space in front of the servo mount. The plug lead and cap from the CDI module connect back to the motor through the firewall. All radio and ignition components need to be well packed in foam rubber to protect against vibration. Make sure you use lock-tite or similar on your engine mount bolts to ensure nothing loosens up.

Do make sure that you also do a range check before you fly with the motor running. I also spend a few moments after a flight checking the model before shut-down to make sure there's nothing moving around that should'nt be.

f104g

a 50cc? Not really sure about that perche.

Maybe a DA, 3W or similar 50cc would put too much stress on the airframe.? They are quite powerful motors. A larger motor, needing a larger prop,would reduce the already modest prop clearance the 20x10 has. You would also probably need balast in the tail for a heavier motor installation. The 40cc does'nt require it.

I believe there are kits of the Extra around specifically for 50cc motors. I would probably have bought one of those if I had a 50cc, instead this model.

However, if you have a 50cc available, then why not give it a go.

cjoker5475

thanks for the help . ill need it ,that for sure.anything else you can think of that will help me get started please tell. O how do you start a gasser with electric ignition. is a certain way to prime your engine so you dont start it.

f104g

yep that's pretty easy. Turn the choke full on and flip the prop until the motor fires. Turn the choke off, flip the prop again. Should start about 2 flips there after. If it does'nt after about 5 flips, then repeat the procedure to re-prime the motor.

Before even attempting to start the motor, make sure you have the model tethered. Make sure the throttle is set to idle, and wear a glove to flip the prop.

The switch that you use to connect between the CDI module and it's battery supply is a kill switch for the motor.

cjoker5475

ok so your ignition stays on all the time then.cool,i thought maybe you have to turn the ignition off to prime it then you turned it back on to start.i didnt know ,thanks for all the help.

perche

----Been there!!

nucleusbrains

Hello I'm totally new to this. I was wondering will an O.S. 40 work in my CMPF4U Corsair50?

f104g

What did you think of that model? (a CMPRO ??) did it go well with the 50cc?

hickory

believe it or not ...raidentech finally came up with a replacement wing set for my 140 size p40.....most said it couldn't be done but i guess they got tired of me nagging them lol....thanks norman ( the tech who found the wing )

perche

The extra 330l is an exelent flyer. But the fuse is one of the worst i ewer seen. soft, and the paint chips of the plane.

its not cheap if its not good!!

Not recomendet...