I have just bought a 1/4 scale sig extra 300xs
Is there any problems that I need to fix on this ARF
How do they fly
Thanks
Rcman

the stock fuel tank sucks...

other than that it's the best flying airplane that I've ever had.

Have a Saito 1.8 in mine. You need a lot of right thrust, despite what the directions say.

I'm not a 3d flyer, but I can say this airplane torque rolls and does rolling circles (my two favorite maneuvers) better than any other airplane that I've ever owned.

It's very stable. Landings are so easy its a frggin joke.

Thanks tool
I am glad that you like the plane
I was thinking of putting a Gas 2.4 on it
Rcman

Yes, I love the airplane dearly. It is like one of my children. The 1.8 gives it decent power; it will pull out of a hover....not with AUTHORITY but it will pull out. Use good servos...70 inch-ounce at least on elevator halves and ailerons; 130 inch-ounce on rudder. Keep the CG forward for the first few flights then move it back as you get comfortable. The Sig Extra300xs will land easier than an Aerostar if the CG is forward. Move it back, though, and get at leat 3 degrees right thrust to do torque rolls. If you don't give it right thrust, then you can't hover, no matter how much rudder throw you have.

oh!!!

One more thing!

Instead of spending 15 hours installing the stock hinges that came with this kit, I just used the "large scale" fiberglass/paper hinges made by radio city. That alone cut the build-time down by 5 hours.

Thanks for that tip I will pick up some of them radio city hinges

I've got one with about 12 or so flights on it and did the following:

Modified tail heavily - just my choice
Glassed wing seam - do this!
Put on carbon gear
REPLACED tail wheel immediately
REPLACE main wheels as they fall apart - foam I would recommend not even installing the stock wheels. Replace immediately if you're on pavement and save your wheel pants from eventually hitting the ground.
Upgrade tail wheel springs - not much control with the factory ones - in my opinion.

I did use the factory tank and actually thought it was great... wish it was bigger but it fit perfectly!

Engine: Brison 2.4

Here's a thread you'll enjoy reading:http://rcuniverse.com/showthread.php...437&forumid=57

smartwork:

i had one back in the day with a satio 180 on there. She was a pretty ARF; however, looking at yours makes me say mine was just alright. Your looks Great way to bring that scheme to life.

I also really do like what you did with the colors...a little extra work payed off in a damn good looking ARF.

Why did you glass the wing? is there some evidence that the stock set-up isn't strong enough?

Thanks for the compliments on the look of my Extra. I really liked the plane but I guess in the world of ARFs, we still seek a dash of our own look to the plane. While there are not a lot of these around here, I did want it to look different - just in case.

As for glassing the wing, it's only along the seam where the halves join. It's just for extra strength and to help keep the halves from popping apart at the epoxy. But... it depends on how hard you plan on flying it and how much force you plan on putting on the wing. Just a precaution I took and it takes very little effort. Just don't slice the balsa when you take the covering off the wing - about 2" or 3" or so each side of the center seam - then lay the glass down. As for evidence of the stock not holding... nope, not that I know of and I wasn't going to be the case by which everyone else decided to then glass....

So far the plane is great but still getting familiar with it and its characteristics. Oh, bought new main wheels today. The stock ones are shot and the rims actually broke... and yes that's only about 12 flights. Stock foam wheels shouldn't have even been a consideration on Sig's part due to a lot of people having paved runways.

So, how is the new Extra coming?

-shaun

P.S. Oh, and regarding my scheme... I WISH the purple would have been the color you always see in the magazines which is more like the Deep Metallic Plumb Monokote rather than this lighter Smoke Purple Ultracote.

I was a bit disappointed to see that in person. Considered stripping it, but decided not to. Had already spent enough time on it and didn't want to repaint the cowl.

-s

Well, smartwork, it sure is a beautiful airplane. I was curious about the wing because I had heard one report of the wing folding....but that could be many things other than the inherent design, such as incorrectly joining the wing. Mine is not glassed, and I do occasionally put the airplane in stressfull maneuvers. If I had a 2.4 gasser, I'd defenitley consider glassing. As long as I have a 1.8, though, I'm just going to keep it light as possible.

Hey there, tool -

Just to clarify, I only glassed the seam... not the entire wing. So we're only talking about 2 strips of glass that are 5-6" wide and what... maybe 15" long. Those with a small amount of resin will probably be one of the lightest things you'll add to the plane.

-s

Hey Smartwork,
Beautiful work on the ARF!
What wheels did you replace the foamies with? Are they the same size as stock? Do you have problems with the stock wheel struts breaking at all? My last Extra 300XS's wheel struts broke...maybe my landings were too rough.

I replaced the tail wheel with just a good ole hard wheel like a Great Planes or something similar - works great.

Main wheels - I just replaced those with Dubro low bounce wheels. Take note when you go shopping not to buy them TOO wide for the wheel pants. If memory recalls, they were 3 1/4 tall and something like 1.25 wide - still a little wider than the factory foam wheels but the closest I saw. Whatever the low bounce are... that's what I got.

Funny you should mention the main gear. I put carbon gear from GraphTech on mine and love it, however my engine ran a lean on me the other day which caused me to glide her down on a windy day so rather than whip her around to the paved runway (heavy crosswind), I just glided down to the grass. Well, what do you know but it the wheel pant smacked a bump and actually separated the fiber in my gear right by the fuselage. Somewhat like if you twisted it. Didn't break off... just separated. So... another set is on order for another 50 bucks. I guess I just like saving that 6 ounces or so.

As for the actual axles... no problems with those at all.

-s

I've never balanced such a large model before. Can you guys tell me your preferred methods for balancing the Sig Extra 300XS (not the two person method). I understand that the plane must be turned upside down while balancing but what tool do you use? What do you use as a reference point, ie. what portion of the plane should be horizontal with the ground when balancing??

Also, I'm thinking about using carbon fiber rods for the push-pull rudder system instead of the stock wire. Has anyone tried that and had good luck with that set up (w/one high-torque servo).
Thanks

i used the GP balancer with the plane upside down hold it level once on the spikes then noticing which way it perfered to fall on the balance machine. i started out with 4 3/8 and made it all the way to 4 3/4 before selling the plane. It flew well on the later setting no bad habits.

Krayzc,
Thanks for the balancing advice. I'll get a GP balancer this weekend.
Did you use the stock pull-pull wires for the rudder or did you use something more solid?
Thanks

Rio1

i used the stock pull pull wire the only thing i did was to intall to clevelis on both ends of the cable vise having it were it was wired into the servo rudder pull pull arm. The rudder is very strong on this plane which makes for some easy knife edges and not a lot of rudder will be needed for that move.....

I used the Sullivan S568 heavy duty dual control horns on the rudder, and used the Sullivan S861 for the tail wheel. Also,
a Mejzlik carbon fiber prop 20 x 8 (we have a FPE 2.4) with a
tru turn spinner with lightweight backplate. Added tme smoke
system. We are close to finishing and cant wait to see how it
will fly.

I just love this dang plane............even though it has not been in the air yet.
I have talked to several people that own and fly them, they seem to all be very happy.
I would definitely replace all the wheels, don't even waist your time putting on the one's that shipped with the kit.
I also agree with the comment on the hinges, I just put together a H9 Edge with the fibre/fabric hinges and that is a dream.
They say these will last longer than the airframe if done right.
Mine came in tail heavy with a Saito 1.80 on the nose, like 16oz heavy!!!
Move the battery and reciever back and add a little I guess.
I actually made the rookie mistake of reversing the ailerons and hinging them.........damn!
Emailed sig and decided to just embed new ply and install control horns through.( will send pics when this set up fails . )
Over all I would say it has to be one of the best looking ARF's you can pruchase these days, looks pretty sexy with all those fancy stickers on her.
When I auger this one in I will build another to replace it.
Lean540

Hello Extra 300XS Owners,
Im in the building stage right now and at the point of installing the 1.20 engine. I have a few qustions for you guys.

Did you guys put in Thrust plates behind the motor mount, like 2 degrees right thrust or any down thrust?

Where any of you suscessfull in tinting the canopy like with rite dye or spray tint??

I did recover mine on the Dark purple and did a different sceme on the wing with colors purple,black,gray & white.

I did put 1/8 balsa sheeting on the underside of the fuse from just behind the wing saddle all the way to the tail for added straigth and recovered it.
any more building tips would be helpfull and thanks in advance
NEDYOB

To all Sig Extra 300XS-soon-to-be-builders....I have 32 loged flights on mine that I built last summer........Run the FPE 2.4, great engine, Futaba S9402 servos on everything, at 6 volts. Still have the stock front wheels, at the current rate of wear, will get 75 to 100 flights before they need to get replaced.
Replace the stock tailwheel for a dubro unit, give the stock foam TW to a parkflier guy. Replace the fuel tank for a Du-bro one, I used the 20 oz, changed the stopper for gas, put a barb on the pickup, AND ZIP-TIE ALL lines!!!!!!! Or else they will come undone. I moved the fuel tank back to the C.G. and straped it in with 2 zipties, with a layer of foam in between. Swing a Bolly 20X10. Do add the clevis to the inner rudder pull-pull wire, but replaced with Dubro's wire (dubro's is plastic coated). Used 4-40 steel pushrods, but soldered clevis and used Sulivan Gold-N-Clevis. Dubro heavy duty control arms work great. Replaced Nylon wing bolts for Metric bolts in steel cap screw, running through a dubro nylon washer, then a big steel fender washer. No glass on wing center, used stock pinned hinges run in with epoxy (Tip, rub some chapstick on the hinge knuckle) I think these hinges are better than CA type, and I wouldn't use CA hinges with a gas motor, too much vibration. I had both aileron servos strip their gears on flight #7, the other side on #15. Since then I sealed the hinge gap on all surfaces. I think either the vibration was causing the servos to fail, or else it might have been flutter. Put in at least 2 1/2 to 3 degress of right thrust. Mine has 3 1/4, and flys right now, perhaps due somewhat to the larger 20 in prop vrs the 16 in that a 120 would turn. 3D flight, elevators are too small for harriers and elevators, wants to snap the plane, but torque rolls, and hovers are fine. Put in as much rudder as you can get, at it will turn on a dime in strong winds on the runway, with the stock tailwheel springs. I was only disapointed that the elevators are not big enough for certain 3D, and was going to sell it when I finished my 33% Extra, but this airplane flys so well, I will keep it flying for a while, and hang it up in my garage when I am done, just for display. Oh yeah, I added 2 bolts to the cowl, and switched them over to metal screws and washers, but left the nylon ones on the canopy. (Remember to drill a small hole somewhere to vent it, or else it will deform in the summer)
My hands are starting to hurt, but I think I covered everything.
1. Seal the hinge gaps with monokote
2. 2 to 3 degrees of right thrust!!!!
3. Steel bolts for wing hold down.( I don't trust a couple-a-grand to a couple of .20 cent plastic bolts, but then again, its your plane, not mine.)
4. Zip tie all fuel lines, and if your stock tank has the metal stopper washer/nut, change it for a plastic one. Trust me.
Good luck, great flying, smooth airplane.

Forgot one thing, If you don't have an incidence meter....shame on you, go buy one or borrow one from a buddy before putting this bird together. I had to fix my stab incidence by 2%!!!!!! If I didn't check that, it would have been like flying around with 10 clicks of up elevator all the time. My plane flys level, with the trim at 0.