Well, here I am again - hat in hand and asking for guidance. I am installing the aileron pushrods on my new Sig Four Star Forty. This is my second plane - my first plane was a Sig LT-40. The aileron pushrods on the Four Star install differently from the aileron pushrods on my LT-40. The Four Star aileron pushrods attach to the aileron torque rods by the use of solder links. You retain the links on the pushrods by actually soldering them in place. That is my problem. I tried using a Weller soldering gun and I am just not able to heat the pushrod and link enough to get the solder to "stick." [>:] Any suggestions? [sm=confused.gif]

i dont know about the plane tech info specs stuff but try cleaning the metal, definately get the piece that the solder is going onto hot enought to melt and adhere the solder, and/or if all these fail try cleaning it applying flux and starting over.
sorry hope it helps.
Raf-

I use to have a Weller soldering gun. I went to Sear and bought a soldering iron for about $10-$15. The difference is like night and day. There are some that are more expensive, all depends on how much you're going to be using it and what for.

Also, like Raf suggested; use flux. You don't need a lot of flux, just a light coat on both the link and the area of the rod you want to solder to stick onto.

Good luck.

For this type of soldering I use a propane torch. I turn the flame down low and hold the two parts with pliers. Works like a charm and very easy. I also use flux.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Barry

why don't you use a thread on clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.

If you're using standard solder (rosen core) it won't work. Silver solder with a liquid flux (or paste, I prefer liquid) will do the job with the Weller gun you have. I use this from Great Planes: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFS75&P=ML. Be sure and clean the joint after you're finished, or it will corrode.

You've got to get away from those Z bends sooner or later, might as well be sooner...

As for the rest of the responses, they are all pretty much on track. You'll find that as you get more experience there are usually numerous ways to accomplish any task with models, some better than others. You'll need to do as you have here and ask questions, then try things that seem to make sense to you, or develop your own technique.

The torch is the easiest way. On your Weller:: I've found that I sometimes I have to loosen and retighten the nuts that hold / secure the heating element as they get a builup on them and don't make good contact. ( low heat ) ENJOY !!! RED

whats wrong with z bends on a four star?

Standard 60/40 rosin core solder will work just fine. In fact, I've tried to use silver solder before, and couldn't get it hot enough. then I got some advice from a few experienced modelers about just using regular solder. It worked like a charm, and has never failed me.

It won't??

Maybe you don't recommend it, but I've been using the same rosen core solder on my joints for as long as I've been flying. Used that same technique to solder the rods on my 4*60, flew it for over 2 yrs.

I have a torch, but I save that for sweating pipes in the house. Never used it on any plane, soldering iron gets plenty hot for soldering wires and rods. I do admit, the little iron I have is too small for battery packs; but then I do those.

My .02... do I get any change back?


Warning... the preceding is not meant to be little, degrade or annoy anyone. My thoughts, I got plenty; my wife says too many so I have to share.

I really need help with this one. I have an UCD3D 60 with a Tower Hobbies 75 in the nose. the problem I have is that I noticed that when I fill the tank fuel starts dripping from the carburetor, I tried a different engine with the same results. I'm fueling the ting using a Great Planes Filler with a three-line ste up (engine, filler and vent). I was told that probably it was caused because the tank is too high in relation to the engine, but being an ARF there is no much you can do about it. What is the problem? [:@][:'(][&o]

Bolt.

Start your own thread. What you are doing is called thread hijacking. If you have a question related to something else, simply start your own thread, and you'll likely get responses within minutes...