I am on the brink of buying a 30% Lanier Edge, and am asking anyone out there if they have experience w/this model. What should I be on the lookout for regarding weaknesses in the airframe? Slow flight handling? and any other comments on the strengths/weaknesses of this plane would be appreciated.

Thanks all, Bill

There is a good length discussion in the Giant Scale section, but bottom line is people really like the plane, and replace the stock wheel axles as they tend to break quickly. I'm also on the verge of getting one.

I am on my second one (trees suck!!!) this plane flys great at sea level with a ZDZ 60. hovers at less than 1/2 throttle and pulls out good but not like a rocket. Flys the IMAC patterns fine at the rear of the given CG range (it is quite conservative).

Can someone measure the width of the cowl? I'm thinking of getting one and putting a twin in it but I don't want anything hanging out of the sides of the cowl. How much of the ZDZ 60 hangs out the bottom?

snyder_man

i have one on the shelf waiting its turn.im finishing and flyin the gp wagstaff now.i saw the edge fly at hodges last spring and it seemed very capable and stable.had to have one. mine is a true beaut, built and covered very nicely. im putting a zdz 80 in her.i see where aero-works is producing a 31% edge too billing it as an inexpensive truely aerobat intro plane.its more expensive and i didnt like the colors.

I dont think a twin will fit without most of the heads sticking out the sides. Below is the only pic I have handy of mine with the ZDZ 60

Got mine today, looks great. The covering job is well done and has none of the problems that I've read about in other post. The wing tube was taped down and the cowl paint looks good. Ordered a ZDZ80 for it. This is my first edge and will use for 3D mainly.
Are you guys really attaching the landing gear fairing with clear tape as suggested in the manual? Also should this plane be balanced upright? Any other suggestions or advice? Thanks

Dave

I glued 2 1/4" dowels to the landing gear plate that were long enough to just touch the bottom of the fairing, then drilled through the top and installed two button head sheet metal screws to hold it on. Lots of flights and still holding strong. Thow away the axels as fast as you can or they will end up giving you a spectacular ground loop followed by (at the very least) scuffed wing tips and a good temper tantrum. Three out of three planes in the club have lost an axel. I have tried the balance up-right and upside down and it does not seem to make a difference on the balance machine.

akflier,

Thanks for the tips. Good idea with the dowels.

Dave

Thanks for all the feedback. I did in fact order the plane through the LHS. I am particularly interested in the question by snyder-man regarding the width of the cowl. I am considering a ST 300 twin, but I also do not want to butcher the cowl. I have a ZDZ 60 that is available. Any thoughts?

Bill

Sorry about the Typo in the preceding post. The engine I am considering is a Saito 300 twin, NOT a ST 300. ( I don't think ST makes such an animal)

Bill

With a ZDZ 60 the plane comes in at 23-24 lbs depending on radio gear and batteries. With the ZDZ 60 I have to put all batteries on the motor box to get the ballance at the rear of the CG range. (1- 2000 ma 6 cell on ignition and 2- 2400 ma 6 cell on radio). I am not sure of the weight difference on the ZDZ versus Saito but I would put the rudder servo on a pull pull and move it forward to help with the balance. I am using 1 HITECH 5945 on the rudder and can do knife edge loops so I am not sure I would add the second servo to the rudder and save a little weight there.

I to would like to know the cowl width ?
trying to make a decision on plane for an engine
i have needing a place to go.
THANKS

2Lo, The cowling width is 9 inches.

Take Care,

RD

I just orderd one of these not long ago and it sounds like it is going to be one nice plane.But I see that with the zdz 60 it still comes out at 23-24 lbs.My question is has anybody built one in the 17-20lb range that Lanier claims.

Yeah I did. It flew great..... then I woke up and I was still in bed dreaming about those wonderful manufacture claims that are BS...
I did figure out that while most say this plane is not real solid in the routines but is great for 3D, it can be VERY solid in the routines. All you have to do is drop the throw way down and get rid of some of the expo. I now have six flight modes for mine. Three are for IMAC and are for different parts of the routine and then I have the freestyle, bit more freestyle then all out much as you can get ...... It REALLY made a world of difference on this plane and has made it a dream to fly. I had always stopped halfway through the trimming chart and figured aww heck thats good enough.... Take the time to really dial this plane in and you wont be disappointed.

I also got a 5735 to put on the rudder pull pull so I can cut down on the size of the ignition battery and save a little weight there, and it should also move the CG a little more forward and make the routine even better. I added another deg. of right so now I am at 3 deg and it took all of the left pull out on the up lines and it tracks much better through a loop. It did not affect the hover or have any other negative impacts.

Hi akflyer thanks for the info I was going start at about 2 deg but you solved that one for me.I see you are running a pipe on your zdz60.Is it the K&S?I also am going to run a zdz60 and I am at 1200ft so I will need all I can get from it.Oh yeah one more thing if you don't is what props are you running.

Yep, its a K&S. I used a 22X10 for breakin then had a Menz 24 X 10 till last week and I picked up a Beila sp? 24 X 10. Dont even waste your money on a wood prop..... The difference is incredible going to the carbon fiber in terms of smooth idle and better power. The tail feathers no longer vibrate at an idle and the prop tips track straight as an arrow. Besides I think it looks better too.
I will be home on the 16ht and am moving the rudder servo up and am going to see if I can go to duralights etc. to lighten it up some more depending on the new CG location. At the arm the rudder servo is now (in the tail) the 2 oz servo should be worth ~ 12 oz in the nose, therefore I should be able to lighten it up a good bit. I would plan on putting the rudder servo under the canopy and save yourself some heartburn later.

Just checkout the prop disc it looks darn good comming at you, and I LOVE the sound of the pipe when compared to my other edge that had the pitts muffler.