Has anybody flown this ARF its the Miss America model? what are the charicteristics? any good? edt It also calls for 91 size 4 stroke. And wing span is 65" whight of 3500-4000 grams. After inspecting parts it looks very very good and hinges ect are all instaled. The covering is way better than my GP Ryan st-m. It has no wrinkles at all on any part.

Hi,
I bought one of them and building it now, it is a hell of an airplane and looks very good workmanship and qlty. materials, I am going to install a magnum 91 4c to it, I hope it turns out good, if anyone did fly this bird before ,some info about its tendencies and habits would be greatly apprecited.
thanks in advance,

Orcan
The Mad Turk

Hi I have not started assembly of moine yet but I was thhinking of putting a OS 120 4stroke in that I have already Or get a Saito 100

Hello all I have the Jamara Miss America P51. It flies good and is easy to handle and lands at a reasonably slow pace. It seem to have no bad habits, I have in mine a TT 91 4s which is a perfect match for this plane. Very stable flier. But watch the covering it rips very easily, in the wings.

Oh by the way those control surfaces are not glued in. Don`t get caught on your first flight.. sure would hate to see such a nice bird coming back down the wrong way.

Thanks for the heads up But I did mean to say they were predrilled and ready for glue. Thanks for the flying info on the plane. As for the engine have you enough power for everything The plane can do? If so I will get the Saito 100 to save weight on the nose :-)

Hi Jeeps.. I think the 100 would be a good choise. I had to add 4 ozs to the noise of mine.. and yes I have enough power . The TT 91 is a beast.

Its not quite done as yet as you see no pilot and struts R missing. But the retracts are in.

thanks for the info, I sure will follow the advices

Anyone can show me how retract and retract servo was installed ?

I used B&D air retracts. Not sure if they are still in business. Mechanical retracts are tricky to install right so that the servo don`t buzz and drain your battery. You first got to have the time and patients to play with it until you get it right. Because you must get it right or else you will either kill your battery in flight and come crashing down or have many collapse gear landings, taxing or on take off runs.
I would go with air. They are a few places online that you could get a cheap set of main gears for under $125 or even $100. Now you may say air has its problems and it sure does. My B&Ds where the worse . Use spring air so that way if there is a leak the gears will come down. Now having said that , if you do set the mechanicals p right. You will have many trouble free flights and not have to worry about air leaks or remembering to refill the air tank before each flight. I have the H9 AT6 using mechanical and had close to 100 trouble free take off and landings. I cant remember where I got my retracts , might be from Tower Hobby. They work great. Just make sure they are the right one for your bird. I use a FMA S600 servo.

Here a not so good pic of my AT6 servo .

Thank you for the picture.
Can you tell me why it's treacky to install retract servo ?

A Retract servo is design to rotate 180 degrees and shut off. That means the rods going to the retracts have to be the right geometry so that in the up position the servo travelled the full 180 deg and shut off. Same thing when the gear is in the down position . If there is anything that is preventing the servo from reaching the full 180 deg travel it will stay on and and kill your battery. You will know that its hang up by hearing a buzzing noise. That noise is the servo trying to reach its end travel. It will only shut off if it reach the full 180 deg.
Now some times you may have to bend the wire going to the gear so as to avoid hitting things in the way. Like wing ribs, the connector on the other side of the servo arm and maybe even the wheel when it come up into the bay.You may have to make 2 or 3 bends and still make sure the rod the right length . So start out with a rod that is a bit long and connect it to the retract one side at a time and work it with you hand until its not hanging up anywhere. And oh by the way watch the flexing . Use 4-40 rods not 2-56 its too flexible. Make sure you put the centre screw of the servo in-line with the linkage on the retracts that goes in and out. One more thing use a retract servo no other. The way you set it up is, With the gear down and lock connect the rods to the servo arm with the servo in the down position. Check the travel of the servo from your radio. Retract switch down gear down. Switch up gear up. After you connect both sides work the gears from the radio and make adjustments until the gears lock in both up and down position AND THERE IS NO BUZZING.