Tom Nied

Yeah, I get it. And don't forget to put your FAA # on your plane too. Well, come back anytime. Totally get it.

u2builder

Hey Jim, I only know you from this thread but sad to see you leave the hobby. I only started this hobby in my early 60's, but I had many and given up some. I get what you mean about so many things to do, and the flying field issues. But of my many hobbies the thing I really like about this hobby is that I can still do it as I get even older and it seems like it keeps my mind stimulated and is some thing to look forward to. You don't really have to sell your favorite planes as you can just go into hiatus mode and if you want to fly at some point you just need to charge up some batteries. You really don't get enough for these planes to bother selling them it seems to me. I have dozens of planes at this point which is crazy but I like a lot of them and can't seem to sell the ones I don't like. Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do, and thanks for the advice you have provided.

Joystick TX

Jim, I sure hate to see you leave the hobby. I'll miss your "Building with Jim" articles for sure. But I understand, there is only so much time in a day. I'm retired and trying to bowl, camp out, fly my planes, shoot my pistols, help job seekers with resumes, and keep the wife happy, days fly by. Months are like weeks.

Cancer has slowed me down a lot. I shed over 45 lbs of tumors and beat really low odds of surviving. I was so weak at times, I couldn't open the refrigerator door. I used to get 20 or 30 flights a week on my GSS, I looked at my log book and saw that I only had four flights this year.

One thing I like about this hobby is that you can do it when you get old, I just switched to a little electric Sport Cub, it flies great.

Looking forward to your next book! I can keep up with you on LinkedIn.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Priorities change Jim, I get that. But so do flying interests. Try your other "healthier" lifestyle out, and if it doesn't fit, you can always return. Sell the planes if you must, but I'd hang on to certain key pieces of gear, like your favorite transmitter. It's not likely going to bring much, and having it "in stock" might make a transition back into the hobby a little easier.

Regarding the motorcycle, especially in areas of high traffic, I have one I keep plated and insured (have had a road bike forever), but frankly I'm scared to drive it. It's bad enough suffering the consequences of a mistake you make, but quite another story when somebody else takes you out with a quick left in front of you. Happens WAY too frequently! All they have to say is "I didn't see him" and they're off, pretty much Scott free. Off topic here, so I'll just say it's my belief those people should be charged with involuntary manslaughter automatically.

I find a quiet ride through the forest on a quad once in a while much more relaxing. That's something I've been doing forever as well. Best of luck in your new endeavor! -Al

Tom Nied

Well, I'm back at the GSS. Re opened the box and I'm going to try again. I got to admit, it intimidates me because of its size, but I'm going to review what I've done so far and inch ahead following the manual. So this is what I found I had done before shelving it. I had installed the aileron servos without testing them. And in fact while connecting the servo extensions, bent a pin in the servo extension in both wings, making them both inoperable. Whiskey tango foxtrot! Had to pull them (oh great, I used white silicon around the openings) cut off the shrink tubing and redo the install. Ok but now I'm ready to make the carbon fiber tube pushrods. Have everything I need now and feel confident to pushing this assembly forward. I'm starting to feel better about this. It's just a bigger plane than I'm used to.

Joystick TX

I don't know if you have read anything about assembling the pushrods, you seem like a pretty careful builder, so you probably have. Just in case you missed it, it is a good idea to clean the pushrods and inserts to remove any oil or release agent that may interfere with the epoxy. I use JB Weld and also bolts, you can see photos of them in my gallery.

u2builder

Yes, while I have built many models (60-90 size mostly) for some strange reason the GSS intimidates me also, and more so when I get it to the field. In my tiny workshop I can barely move the pieces around. But really it is just one thing at a time and some things a couple of times. I think it came out good but seem to have lost the few pictures I took. I did poke a couple little holes in the covering which did not make me happy but they probably won't be the last. I should make some wing covers. I used CF rods and also cleaned the pieces with acetone and also used JB weld. Our flying field will probably open in a month. I an sure I will have more to learn when I try to get the Fuji running since I've never tried a gas engine. Will have plenty of help at the club though.

Good luck Tom,,,,,,,,!

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I do everything the guys are talking about above, and I also use a small drill bit to reach inside the carbon fiber tubes and rough up the inside (the inner surface tends to be smooth and shiny), which helps the JB Weld to soak in and grab on. Additionally; I put a carbide bit on my dremel, and run it on low RPMs to rough up the contact section of the titanium push rod ends to insure positive adhesion. I wash my rod ends in denatured alcohol or acetone to remove any lubricants that might remain on them.

U2 - You have to poke a hole or two in each plane. That's what makes it YOUR plane.

~ Jim ~

u2builder

Hahaha. Glad you are still here Jim. Maybe you will keep a finger in the pie! You never know, you might be sitting on a peaceful knoll on a hunting walk and see an eagle soar overhead and get the urge again.
Maybe I'll put one of my new FAA number thingy decals I had Callie make over the little hole near the cockpit.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

And don't forget, guys, you can have my beautiful GSS for your very own. RTF !

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...itemId=1064071

(shameless plug) Lots of photos. Check it out!

~ Jim ~

Tom Nied

Great tips. I'm pretty close to making the aileron carbon fiber tube pushrods. I have cleaned my titanium ends as well scuffed them up with the Dremel. But I'm going to have come up with a way to clean the inside of the carbon tubes (4-40) and get something into them to scruff them up to let the J B Weld to have something to grab onto. A Q-tip isn't going to fig. I've got the servos reinstalled, working just fine now. I'm kind of getting into this assembly.. Currently trying to figure servo arm to control horn relation. Is it good to start with a 1-1 ratio? I want to mount the horn as perpendicular to the servo arm as possible.

SkyPilot101

A round jewelry file works good on the c/f tube I.D. LHS sell them for a few bucks each.

Tom Nied

Think I got one. Thanks

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I just use a drill bit about half the size of the hole, mounted in a hand-drill, and I just hold it still and spin the carbon fiber tube on the end, putting a little pressure on the tip at an angle. I rotate it, and back it off the bit slowly. All you're doing in there is scuffing & breaking that smooth surface open, so the glues/epoxies can soak in and grip. It would hold without doing anything, so scuffing it even a little bit makes a big difference in strength.

The GSS doesn't require a ton of servo power, so if you're using MG servos (I use the JR ST126MG's) like the 126MG's or comparable, with a metal arm, then you can use one of the middle holes and still have plenty of power. Most of the MG's are powerful enough that you can use the outside holes and have zero problems. The GSS doesn't place a lot of demand on the servos.

~ Jim ~

Joystick TX

There has been a lot of discussion about the CG on the GSS. I don't know what they have in the book now.

I started with 6" and went all the way to 6-1/2" which was too much for me. It is a good idea to make small changes and several flights to get a real feel for the settings. I wound up with 6-1/4". That allows me to have a really slow speed (I use flaperons), the plane can flair a lot and even do a tail wheel first landing. Three-pointers are a cinch.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

And I like my taildraggers to land with the tail flying high, so I like my tail lighter. Usually I do this with my biplanes. There's a cost for everything you do, and this is no different. When it's light in the tail, the plane tends to nose over more easily if you're not careful. It's usually best to leave that until you're more familiar with the flying characteristics of the plane. To be honest, my GSS isn't that light in the tail, and as Steve says, it makes three-point landings easy as pie.

Tom Nied

I got to cut the decals out by hand? C'mon, I thought this was an arf.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Better clear your schedule for the next two weeks. Those decals are TOUGH.

~ Jim ~

Charlie P.

I do this with some positive horizontal tail incedence in anything I build or assemble. Nothing more disappointing than a model that flies squatted.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

A tail incidence change alone, say to lift the tail, is going to cause a negative change in the wing's incidence in flight, so the tail and wing will be fighting each other, no?

It would seem to me that changing tail incidence, if you hope to do anything elevator trim can't, will need to be accompanied by a change in wing incidence as well?

Tom Nied

What center of gravity location was finally established? I know a lot of arf manufacturers have it cautiously a bit to far forward. Any thoughts?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Great Planes models are conservative to say the least. Mine ended up way in back of suggested, but should mention my flying style encourages that kind of thing. I love the slow speed handling a rear CG leaves me with - so my planes are generally pretty nuts when it comes to CG.

If you are low time, or possibly aren't currently flying regularly, I think that suggested point might be a good plan for the maiden. I would caution that this is likely to leave you with a plane that's going to use a lot of runway trying to get it to slow down. Keep that in mind! Many Sportsters loose their main gear on the early flights. You cannot fly this thing down to a landing trying to slow it! You can get away with that on a .40 size plane, but stuff this size have much more momentum when it comes to that, and it will not take kindly to the kind of abuse that will put on the gear.

That said, I don't remember the specifics, where suggested leaves you in relation to the wing tube, but pretty sure the plane will be very civilized balanced there. In back of that - you be the judge. That will be a call based on your expectations and flying ability. Save that until you get some time on it though... -Al

Tom Nied

Manual states 5-1/4" [133 mm], for the first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 1" [25 mm] forward or 1" [25 mm] back to change the flying characteristics.

I'm tempted to set it at 5 3/4". Think that's crazy? Hate it when I can't slow a plane down for landings.

u2builder

I prefer rearward CG but with heavy Fuji already, I really didn't want to add a lot more dead weight. I put dual 2700 mah battery packs and the switches for them in a hatch I made in the tail and got the CG back to 5 3/4". I could add a few ounces of lead if I need to.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Where does 5 3/4" leave you in relation to the wing tube?

I can't even imagine flying this plane 1" forward of suggested.