New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
#1076
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Even better are the kitchen scales that sometimes pop up in garage sales for $10.
I have a "heirloom" from family but have seen many similar. Here's one on ebaY similar to mine - goes up to 24 pounds.
I have a "heirloom" from family but have seen many similar. Here's one on ebaY similar to mine - goes up to 24 pounds.
#1077
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Too funny! That's pretty nearly an exact match to mine, though that one may have an extra layer of dirt on it. Close though, or just right really. Too clean, and the Lady may want to "borrow" it, then put it away somewhere I'll never find it. Like the kitchen.... Dirty is safe.....
To anyone concerned looking for/at one of these, being slightly off at zero is normal (within reason)- so it will indicate correctly (or close enough as mentioned earlier) at 10 or 15 lbs, or wherever you calibrate it using that black knob the needle is pointing at.
To anyone concerned looking for/at one of these, being slightly off at zero is normal (within reason)- so it will indicate correctly (or close enough as mentioned earlier) at 10 or 15 lbs, or wherever you calibrate it using that black knob the needle is pointing at.
#1078
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Just remember I have NEVER had a plane that was less sensitive to C.G!!!!!6 or 7'' doesn't seem to matter much,elevator never gets twitchy or other bad habits,it just slows down and lands better!!! Brian[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=49_49.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]
#1083
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Too small for what? It's a sport plane, as long as exotic performance isn't the expectation (hovering, unlimited vertical, 10' take off runs), I'll bet it would be fun to fly with that engine?
ORIGINAL: rexbirk
I have an MLD-28 gas engine that needs a home. Anyone use one on this plane? Is it too small?
I have an MLD-28 gas engine that needs a home. Anyone use one on this plane? Is it too small?
#1084
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: SBrian
That baby looks tuff to zero in?
That baby looks tuff to zero in?
Back to Rexbirk - if a 28cc is what you have use it. I mostly fly at 1/2 throttle with the 34cc. Put an 18 x 8 or 18 x 6 on it and have fun. You'll probably lose a little in knife edge, but it's no 3-D model in any case. Might do well with a lighter engine and less weight to drag around.
#1085
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Good points by everyone. I am the type who likes to fly low and slow but I also like to have an over abundance of vertical when I want. I have two MLD-28 engine but it seems this is too much plane for my flying style with my engines. Its a beautiful plane though!
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the comments.
#1086
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Thanks for all your help...I maidened the Sportster today. It was really nice. Very easy flyin plane with gobs of power. I flew it around at mostly half throttle with a Xoar19X7. I am at 6000 feet so I was a little nervous about power. The motor is still running rich due to the fact I am breaking it in. I think when the motor is broken in, I will use 20X6. I think my plane came in about 14.75 pounds. I may be off a little due to my scale is much like the beauties I saw in earlier posts.
#1087
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Went out Saturday and found the right aileron servo (a Futaba S9001) was shot! Pulled the case open and there were six teeth missing. Very, very glad I found it during my pre-flight check; but now I'm worried at the cause. This servo had only eight flights on it!
You can bet this weekend I'll be doing some low passes to listen for aileron flutter. I can't rule out "hangar damage": we did have a stranger in the house while I was at work to replace a component on our electric range and he moved that wing panel from where I had it stored to get access to the circuit-breaker panel. I can't imagine that even lifting the wing flat by holding just the aileron would shear teeth. Third possibility is that I did it in transporting it to the field or back, but that also seems unlikely. Last time out I had four flights and didn't notice any problem, but as I was still breaking in the engine and getting used to the model they were pretty light aerobatics.
Anyone have any tips on balancing an aileron with small weights? I used the stock CA hinges and have plenty of range before they bind/bottom out. More free movement than the control throws at high rates. I will likely also seal the hinge gap with Monokote.
You can bet this weekend I'll be doing some low passes to listen for aileron flutter. I can't rule out "hangar damage": we did have a stranger in the house while I was at work to replace a component on our electric range and he moved that wing panel from where I had it stored to get access to the circuit-breaker panel. I can't imagine that even lifting the wing flat by holding just the aileron would shear teeth. Third possibility is that I did it in transporting it to the field or back, but that also seems unlikely. Last time out I had four flights and didn't notice any problem, but as I was still breaking in the engine and getting used to the model they were pretty light aerobatics.
Anyone have any tips on balancing an aileron with small weights? I used the stock CA hinges and have plenty of range before they bind/bottom out. More free movement than the control throws at high rates. I will likely also seal the hinge gap with Monokote.
#1088
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
I changed to high torque servo's with metal gears, futaba 3305's and also changed the hinges to larger plastic ones, this solved my problems with aileron flutter
#1089
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
#1091
Senior Member
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: ahicks
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Few modelers actually go to that effort. Some do cut out lightening holes and recover. Anything to change the mass helps. If nothing more, it raises the speed at which the flutter happens, and that's usually enough.
It sounds like this model has a problem that hits a smallish percentage.
#1092
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Yes, balance weights should be on the other side of the hingeline from the surface they're balancing.
Few modelers actually go to that effort. Some do cut out lightening holes and recover. Anything to change the mass helps. If nothing more, it raises the speed at which the flutter happens, and that's usually enough.
It sounds like this model has a problem that hits a smallish percentage.
ORIGINAL: ahicks
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Few modelers actually go to that effort. Some do cut out lightening holes and recover. Anything to change the mass helps. If nothing more, it raises the speed at which the flutter happens, and that's usually enough.
It sounds like this model has a problem that hits a smallish percentage.
#1093
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: rexbirk
Good points by everyone. I am the type who likes to fly low and slow but I also like to have an over abundance of vertical when I want. I have two MLD-28 engine but it seems this is too much plane for my flying style with my engines. Its a beautiful plane though!
Thanks for the comments.
Good points by everyone. I am the type who likes to fly low and slow but I also like to have an over abundance of vertical when I want. I have two MLD-28 engine but it seems this is too much plane for my flying style with my engines. Its a beautiful plane though!
Thanks for the comments.
I wouldn't hesitate to use the engine for a second. If that plane is made for a 1.60 motor, then a 26CC is the rough equivalent power to that. You're using a 28CC. I have a 26CRRC gasser that I would not hesitate to use on this plane, it would fly it very well. I was going to use it on the new Super Sportster I just ordered, in fact. Then I boinked my other plane with a 30CC Syssa, enough to remove the engine. So now I'll be using the Syssa instead. Otherwise, I'd have had no qualms whatsoever in using my 26CC on it. PLENTY of power.
This will be my second giant Super Sportster. Nice flying plane.
I'm enjoying reading the thread so I can get back up to speed while mine is in shipping to me. Changing out the gear is going to be a given, that's for sure. It really sharpens up the looks and I know it must make the taxiing a dream. I'm glad to see other guys having good results with smallish gassers in them. I have a feeling this will become a favorite of mine, just like the last one.
~ Jim ~
#1094
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: SBrian
Glad to hear you are all set with your radio problem! PS I can add the sound of a 5 cylinder radial engine if I must! You can do those kinda things with electric planes these days. [&:]
Glad to hear you are all set with your radio problem! PS I can add the sound of a 5 cylinder radial engine if I must! You can do those kinda things with electric planes these days. [&:]
~ Jim ~
#1095
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Yes, balance weights should be on the other side of the hingeline from the surface they're balancing.
Few modelers actually go to that effort. Some do cut out lightening holes and recover. Anything to change the mass helps. If nothing more, it raises the speed at which the flutter happens, and that's usually enough.
It sounds like this model has a problem that hits a smallish percentage.
ORIGINAL: ahicks
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Regarding balancing, those weights would need to be ahead of the hinge line, right?
I'd seal the hinge line(s), take a hard look at your control hardware, and seriously consider going with metal gear servos. I get the fact that your damage may not have occured in flight, but plenty of people flying with gas have had the same thing happen to them - in flight - often resulting in control surfaces departing. It happens so fast, you can no longer depend on hearing the flutter, then dealing with it. If it flutters, it's gone....
On my 3rd or 4th flight, with metal gear servos, I blew one aileron off completely, and had the second still holding by the outside hinge only, landing using rudder. A little less than gracefull but made it down in one piece. The soldered on clevises were my issue. I replaced everything with HD 1/4 scale hardware and have had no further issues. FWIW
Few modelers actually go to that effort. Some do cut out lightening holes and recover. Anything to change the mass helps. If nothing more, it raises the speed at which the flutter happens, and that's usually enough.
It sounds like this model has a problem that hits a smallish percentage.
Anyone have a sacrificial aileron from a crashed model that can say where the inside ribs of the ailerons are? Failing that I'll try the outer edge, but I'd rather have the weight inset about as much as the control horn; but coming in from the outboard edge.
#1096
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RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot
Rex,
I wouldn't hesitate to use the engine for a second. If that plane is made for a 1.20 motor, then a 26CC is the equivalent power to that. You're using a 28CC. I have a 26CRRC gasser that I would not hesitate to use on this plane, it would fly it very well. I was going to use it on the new Super Sportster I just ordered, in fact. Then I boinked my other plane with a 30CC Syssa, enough to remove the engine. So now I'll be using the Syssa instead. Otherwise, I'd have had no qualms whatsoever in using my 26CC on it. PLENTY of power.
My first one was powered with an O.S. 120 four-stroke, and it had plenty of power. Fast too, as I recall. Landed great.
This will be my second giant Super Sportster. Nice flying plane.
I'm enjoying reading the thread so I can get back up to speed while mine is in shipping to me. Changing out the gear is going to be a given, that's for sure. It really sharpens up the looks and I know it must make the taxiing a dream. I'm glad to see other guys having good results with smallish gassers in them. I have a feeling this will become a favorite of mine, just like the last one.
~ Jim ~
ORIGINAL: rexbirk
Good points by everyone. I am the type who likes to fly low and slow but I also like to have an over abundance of vertical when I want. I have two MLD-28 engine but it seems this is too much plane for my flying style with my engines. Its a beautiful plane though!
Thanks for the comments.
Good points by everyone. I am the type who likes to fly low and slow but I also like to have an over abundance of vertical when I want. I have two MLD-28 engine but it seems this is too much plane for my flying style with my engines. Its a beautiful plane though!
Thanks for the comments.
I wouldn't hesitate to use the engine for a second. If that plane is made for a 1.20 motor, then a 26CC is the equivalent power to that. You're using a 28CC. I have a 26CRRC gasser that I would not hesitate to use on this plane, it would fly it very well. I was going to use it on the new Super Sportster I just ordered, in fact. Then I boinked my other plane with a 30CC Syssa, enough to remove the engine. So now I'll be using the Syssa instead. Otherwise, I'd have had no qualms whatsoever in using my 26CC on it. PLENTY of power.
My first one was powered with an O.S. 120 four-stroke, and it had plenty of power. Fast too, as I recall. Landed great.
This will be my second giant Super Sportster. Nice flying plane.
I'm enjoying reading the thread so I can get back up to speed while mine is in shipping to me. Changing out the gear is going to be a given, that's for sure. It really sharpens up the looks and I know it must make the taxiing a dream. I'm glad to see other guys having good results with smallish gassers in them. I have a feeling this will become a favorite of mine, just like the last one.
~ Jim ~
I thinkthe 28cc engine would work well too.
This guy hovers the SuperSportster quite effectively on a convertedRyobi 31cc weedeater engine with 18x8 prop: www.youtube.com/watch
#1097
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
I've installed my "aeroelastic flutter counter-measures" but I won't be able to demonstrate they work unless the aileron doesn't strip servo teeth . . . which I'm not sure it did in the first place. And since you can't prove something won't happen . . .
Hopefully at least I've dne no harm. From what I could gather the intent is to move the center of gravity ahead of the center of lift on the control surface. I couldn't find the ribs in the aileron (if there are any) anywhere near the position I wanted, so I just went to the outer edge. I figure the control horn and linkage has the inner edge stiffened much more than the outer.
For the curious - it's a .270 bullet of 140 gr, drilled for a 4-40 size rod which is silver-soldered in place. The wing end is bedded in the new Gorilla CA (medium) glue.
Hopefully at least I've dne no harm. From what I could gather the intent is to move the center of gravity ahead of the center of lift on the control surface. I couldn't find the ribs in the aileron (if there are any) anywhere near the position I wanted, so I just went to the outer edge. I figure the control horn and linkage has the inner edge stiffened much more than the outer.
For the curious - it's a .270 bullet of 140 gr, drilled for a 4-40 size rod which is silver-soldered in place. The wing end is bedded in the new Gorilla CA (medium) glue.
#1098
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Very nice! My understanding is in a perfect world, that weight would balance the aileron on it's hinges. Beyond that, my brain starts hurting so I never go there. I agree you couldn't have hurt anything doing that though! The Decathlon & some other aerobatic planes use something similar (called spades?) that use aerodynamics - in addition to weight/mass, ahead of the hinge line.... not going there either!
#1099
RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
ORIGINAL: Charlie P.
I've installed my ''aeroelastic flutter counter-measures'' but I won't be able to demonstrate they work unless the aileron doesn't strip servo teeth . . . which I'm not sure it did in the first place. And since you can't prove something won't happen . . .
Hopefully at least I've dne no harm. From what I could gather the intent is to move the center of gravity ahead of the center of lift on the control surface. I couldn't find the ribs in the aileron (if there are any) anywhere near the position I wanted, so I just went to the outer edge. I figure the control horn and linkage has the inner edge stiffened much more than the outer.
For the curious - it's a .270 bullet of 140 gr, drilled for a 4-40 size rod which is silver-soldered in place. The wing end is bedded in the new Gorilla CA (medium) glue.
I've installed my ''aeroelastic flutter counter-measures'' but I won't be able to demonstrate they work unless the aileron doesn't strip servo teeth . . . which I'm not sure it did in the first place. And since you can't prove something won't happen . . .
Hopefully at least I've dne no harm. From what I could gather the intent is to move the center of gravity ahead of the center of lift on the control surface. I couldn't find the ribs in the aileron (if there are any) anywhere near the position I wanted, so I just went to the outer edge. I figure the control horn and linkage has the inner edge stiffened much more than the outer.
For the curious - it's a .270 bullet of 140 gr, drilled for a 4-40 size rod which is silver-soldered in place. The wing end is bedded in the new Gorilla CA (medium) glue.
could you please post a bigger picture
to see exactly where you installed the counterweight ?