H9 Cub/OS 70
05-15-2006, 10:48 AM
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H9 Cub/OS 70
Hi all;
Does anybody have experience with putting an OS FS70 Surpass in the Hangar 9 Cub? If so, were there any problems with the actual installation? I'm concerned with the throttle routing, motor mount, CG and such.
Thanks!
Does anybody have experience with putting an OS FS70 Surpass in the Hangar 9 Cub? If so, were there any problems with the actual installation? I'm concerned with the throttle routing, motor mount, CG and such.
Thanks!
05-15-2006, 12:56 PM
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RE: H9 Cub/OS 70
Hello, Is this the new ARF PNP Cub? Anyway, you shouldn't have a problem. I'm using a OS.52 mounted near vertical head-down and have had to cut a relief hole for the cylinder head. So your larger .70 will definately need the same. I also rerouted the throttle line; a clear run, no problem, just move the servo too to accommodate the wire rod. You can always reverse your carb mounting direction if that helps.
I used a GP fiberglass mount rather than the kit's metal "clamp" unit.
The .70's weight should also be no problem. A little extra weight in the nose of a cub might be of benefit anyway.
I used a GP fiberglass mount rather than the kit's metal "clamp" unit.
The .70's weight should also be no problem. A little extra weight in the nose of a cub might be of benefit anyway.
05-15-2006, 04:23 PM
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RE: H9 Cub/OS 70
Ive been waiting on this anwser, posted about a month ago for this installtion, no anwser, too new maybe? am wanting to install an os 70 inverted , thanks for the info...JIM
05-15-2006, 06:45 PM
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RE: H9 Cub/OS 70
Inverted should be no problem; watch your spraybar height in relation to the tank, should be about 1/4 inch above the tank centerline. Weight is no problem either, and the power is perfect, for either of the H-9 Cubs. I have a .72 Saito inverted in my Cub floatplane, couldn't be a better match. Not as much cowl hacking required either.
05-16-2006, 06:28 AM
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RE: H9 Cub/OS 70
ORIGINAL: GarySS
Hello, Is this the new ARF PNP Cub? Anyway, you shouldn't have a problem. I'm using a OS.52 mounted near vertical head-down and have had to cut a relief hole for the cylinder head. So your larger .70 will definately need the same. I also rerouted the throttle line; a clear run, no problem, just move the servo too to accommodate the wire rod. You can always reverse your carb mounting direction if that helps.
I used a GP fiberglass mount rather than the kit's metal "clamp" unit.
The .70's weight should also be no problem. A little extra weight in the nose of a cub might be of benefit anyway.
Hello, Is this the new ARF PNP Cub? Anyway, you shouldn't have a problem. I'm using a OS.52 mounted near vertical head-down and have had to cut a relief hole for the cylinder head. So your larger .70 will definately need the same. I also rerouted the throttle line; a clear run, no problem, just move the servo too to accommodate the wire rod. You can always reverse your carb mounting direction if that helps.
I used a GP fiberglass mount rather than the kit's metal "clamp" unit.
The .70's weight should also be no problem. A little extra weight in the nose of a cub might be of benefit anyway.
Was there a problem with mounting the new motor mount? By that I mean were the new blind nuts hard to install? Can you get to that area?
05-16-2006, 10:59 AM
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RE: H9 Cub/OS 70
Redoing the motor mount is not easy. You must have patience and perseverance. I have normal sized hands and had no real trouble accessing the area.
The various issues are:
1. I wanted to recycle the original blind nuts, but the firewall splintered with two of them and still would not release when I tried to knock them out. So I just left them in and used brand new ones.
2. I had to grind part of the "flange" off two of the new nuts to get them to clear either the old nut or part of the interior structure.
3. Aligning the new mount (or the stock mount if that is what you use) is also tricky. I took a large sheet of paper and drew a straight line on it as my guide. Then I measured off the width of the fuselage's side on the paper and drew some side guidelines so that when I place the fuse down the firewall was centered on that first long line. I blocked up the fuselage with heavy weights (full gallon paint cans are good) so that it wouldn't shift during this whole process.
4. Then with my engine mounted on my motor mount I held it to the firewall and marked the mount’s “footprint” on the firewall with a felt pen. This took several tries on my part! Once satisfied I removed with engine from its mount and then used the mount as a guideline to drill new firewall boltholes. Its easy running the new blind nuts into their holes by using a long piece of music wire to guide it in. Screw them down to get them to dig into the firewall. One of mine is still spinning and not seated, so I will need to deal with that little problem later.
I’ve run on long so I’ll stop. You will still need to deal with the muffler's cowl clearance, and cooling holes; both incoming and exiting. I’m to that point so I better get back to work in my shop!!!!!! I'd rather solve these little problems than work crossword puzzles.
The various issues are:
1. I wanted to recycle the original blind nuts, but the firewall splintered with two of them and still would not release when I tried to knock them out. So I just left them in and used brand new ones.
2. I had to grind part of the "flange" off two of the new nuts to get them to clear either the old nut or part of the interior structure.
3. Aligning the new mount (or the stock mount if that is what you use) is also tricky. I took a large sheet of paper and drew a straight line on it as my guide. Then I measured off the width of the fuselage's side on the paper and drew some side guidelines so that when I place the fuse down the firewall was centered on that first long line. I blocked up the fuselage with heavy weights (full gallon paint cans are good) so that it wouldn't shift during this whole process.
4. Then with my engine mounted on my motor mount I held it to the firewall and marked the mount’s “footprint” on the firewall with a felt pen. This took several tries on my part! Once satisfied I removed with engine from its mount and then used the mount as a guideline to drill new firewall boltholes. Its easy running the new blind nuts into their holes by using a long piece of music wire to guide it in. Screw them down to get them to dig into the firewall. One of mine is still spinning and not seated, so I will need to deal with that little problem later.
I’ve run on long so I’ll stop. You will still need to deal with the muffler's cowl clearance, and cooling holes; both incoming and exiting. I’m to that point so I better get back to work in my shop!!!!!!
I'd rather solve these little problems than work crossword puzzles.
