serge1

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Holy S..........


I started my taurus 3.2 today. Only 3 flips and the engine popped...Wow!! However after a 10 min run on tarmac I heard
a strange vibrating noise at the back of the plane. After closer inspection I found the problem. The stab is deglued!...Half loose. How can I repair that? I am unable to get the stab out...

This is my first gasser and it seems to vibrate a lot..Is that normal?

Thanks

Serge

texasporty-RCU

I glued some doublers in mine (made of balsa, maybe light ply is needed) on the inside of mine. I went through the rudder servo holes with the pieces I fabricated. I simply made a template from the outside dimensions of the stab. After cutting them out I fine sanded them too match the contour and glued them inside with epoxy. It wasn't to hard to fish them though the rudder servo holes.
If it is broke loose from the top also. You are probably going to have to use a syringe to get on top of the stab area with epoxy. Hope this helps or at least gives you some ideas.

Mark

serge1

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Mark,


Thank you so much. I will try that.

Serge

CAPtain232

My Feedback: (40)

If your Taurus is vibrating that bad, then you do not have the needles adjusted correctly. The Taurus line of engines has thus far proven to me to be some of the smoothest out there. You are probably a little rich on the low end. These engines are not like glow engines such that you SHOULD or HAVE to run them rich during break in. In fact, gas engines can be adjust to what would be a good running condition as if it had 20 gallons through it. As it breaks in, it will need a little more adjusting, but not much.

Continuously check the plug, you should have a tannish color on it. If it is more whitish it is too lean, if it is darker than tan or getting black it is too rich. It is better to be rich than lean of course, but if you run it rich the plug will foul.

Geistware

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Get some liquid nails and put a bead all the way around the stab. It will never come loose again!

AJF--2

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I hate to bring up the obvious-- but I am sure the prop is balanced -- I know that I was surprised when I found out how much of a difference it makes. You are now swinging BIG LUMBER and at 7000 RPMs it makes a difference. Also Bill told me that it is important that the hole is drilled at EXACTLY 90 degrees. I use a drill press and then balance after the hole is drilled. This is really a big surprise to me. Have you called Bill O-- he really doesn't mind a call if there is a problem. (one of the benefits of a Taurus)

serge1

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Hi AJF,


The prop is well balanced. However I found that my ignition battery was almost dead , The engine stalled after a minute due to that...Can it be the problem? The vibration is only at idle.

Any idea?

"that the hole is drilled at EXACTLY 90 degrees."

-Good point. I must check that.

I will retry tomorow with full charged battery . I run hydrimax and it take 36 hours to charge the dam pack.

Thanks
Serge

Vince

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I do not think it's the prop, as stated above, the idle needle too rich will cause these suckers (not just Taurus) to shake like the dickens.

Vince

AJF--2

My Feedback: (119)

Max low RPM is 1750-- and I do think the battery will be the problem. I am very interested-- Keep us informed-- my money is on "the battery"---(Bill WILL NOT LET A BAD ENGINE LEAVE HIS SHOP!!!!--HE RUNS THEM AND SETS THE NEEDLE LONG BEFORE THEY GET CLOSE TO THE UPS TRUCK)

X-Cellant

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Serge1. You said your new to large gas planes. Just a note, you should not run your engine in these light weight airframes with out the wing. The wing helps dampen the vibration.

Good luck on the repair, it sounds like you have some good advice from the other guys.

Dave

Tim_Indy

Most engines will run rough at idle if the low end is set too rich. That's what gets my vote here.

Regarding the needle settings, I've got a Taurus 52 and know Bill is a great guy but............. Consider that he is putting 10 engines on the UPS truck all with the magic "pre-set" needles. One goes to New Orleans, hot, high humidity, sea level. One goes to Denver, cooler, 5,000 feet altitude, moderate humidity. One goes to Seattle, more high humidity, cooler. One goes to Las Vegas, super hot, zero humidty. You get the picture.......no way these will ALL have an ideal needle setting. The only way he can give needles an actual FLIGHT setting, is if you're going to fly with him in Michigan, on the same day he sets the needles.

IMHO, the only proper and safe "pre-set" setting is too rich on both the high and low speed needles. This insures that the initial startup won't be lean, and overheat the engine. It's necessary because many gas newbies are shocked and distressed to find that they might have to actually bend down and set the needles themselves!! :stupid: (just kidding........well.........not really!).

Might be gas, but I've STILL gotta tune for MY conditions, to keep the engine happy, and get the performance that I paid for.

Tim

AJF--2

My Feedback: (119)

I hear what everybody is saying about the needle-- and I really don't disagree with you. But USUALLY they are close enough out of the box not to cause that problem. Bill is in Mich-- I am in NC-- I own 3 and have yet to put a screwdriver on any of the needles. I am sure I will someday--but not yet. To expand on what Dave said-- If you are testing the engine in the PW and the canopy is on--be sure it is screwed in place or else all of that prop wash will blow it off and scratch it--(don't ask)

Tim_Indy

GREAT heads up. I knew that, but, forgot that things that are obvious to some, aren't obvious to all.

GREAT forum
Tim

serge1

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Dave,

You are fully right. That's what I thought also. I will run
the engine with the wing and post the update .

thanks

Serge

serge1

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You're right I am sure the engine is not a bad one. My bet is on the very low battery and perhaps the missing wing on the airframe. I will let you know.

Serge
Thanks

AJF--2

My Feedback: (119)

My first experience with a "no wing" gas engine was very similar. I had this new plane--(new to me anyway)-I'Kon N West Monocoupe 90A and I wanted to hear that G 38 run soooo bad--I just couldn't wait. My buddy was holding it by the tail surfaces and when it fired up---Well, I will just say that I had a hard time catching it to turn it off. (yall please don't laugh too hard-- you had to be there)

JBrannon

My Feedback: (3)

Hopefully you ran the engine with the WING ON. The wing does a tremendous job of stabilizing the airframe and absorbing vibration.

I learned first hand that running a small gasser with the wing off will quickly destroy the horizontal stab.

The vibrations produced at idle will make the plane bounce from wheel to wheel with the wing removed. I have seen this with my BME 50 AND my 3W 60.

Joe Brannon

serge1

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Hi Joe,

That's exactly what happenned. The place bounced
like a tail fish.

I learned my lesson!

Serge

serge1

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Ok. I started the engine with the ignition battery fully charged and the wing bolted.

Result: The engine is super smooth! Idle is also perfect!

What a great power plant! Now I need to get that plane in the air...Hummmm....

Thanks guys for all the help!

Serge

stomper

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Glad to hear you got It worked out .Best of luck on the maiden Serge

Doug

Geistware

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What size battery are you using?

serge1

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I use hydrimax 4.8V 1450 MAh for the ignition.

Serge

MCFLY-RCU

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Personally, this engine has been a great choice for my first gas.
(dave patrick 330l) It really is a performer. Also, Southgate aero (Bill) has great customer service. Good luck and many happy flights on this new year.

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

That's your problem with vibration... but it looks like you got that figure out already.