Its been over a year since I acquired the Hanger 9 1/4-scale Cap 232 and the Moki 180. This past week I finally started assembly.

Yesterday was my first session with the Moki 180 on my test stand. I had a hell of a time getting it started but am convinced it was because my glow starter didn't provide enough juice to the OS #8 plug. I eventually dug out my power panel starter and cranked the juice up to maximum GREEN. Ten minutes later she was purring at 6000+rpm with an 18x10 Zinger.

Per instructions from the Cline web site my setup configuration:
a) Large fuel line from the carburetor inlet to the output of the Cline regulator.
b) Large fuel line from the input of the Cline regulator to one side of a "T" connector.
c) Large fuel line with a stopper installed connected to center of the "T" connector.
d) Large fuel line from the other side of the "T" connector to the fuel tap on the 16 oz tank.
e) Medium fuel line from the crankcase vent tap to one side of a "T" connector.
f) Medium fuel with a stopper installed connected to center of the "T" connector.
g) Medium fuel line from the other side of the "T" connector to the pressure tap on the 16oz tank.

24 ounces of fuel later found me fighting the daylight so I dismounted the engine and put it up for the night. My experience did leave me with a couple of questions:

1) I had heard that the Cline Regulator system was based on demand and would not pressurize the tank. I'm here to tell you that when I disconnected the plug from the crankcase "T" connector it there was quite a bit of residual pressure left in the tank.


2) The break in instructions called for initiating a starting needle adjustment between 4 & 5 turns out from stop. It also suggested the the engine should be broken in a full throttle but rich enough to prevent rpms in excess of 6000. After I started the engine with the initial setting I tached it greater than 7000 rpm. I further richen the needle SEVERAL more turns and still ended up with more than 6000 rpm -- I didn't go any further because I almost totally unscrewed the needle and it still didn't go any slower. I did reduce throttle down to 6000rpm.

I'm only 24ozs into my bench breakin. I'm going to continue this until I've gone through the entire gallon. I will continue with the sloppy rich setting for an additional gallon with the airplane in the air. One of the last things I did before shutting down was to do a preliminary check on the engines ability to idle. I closed down the throttle to the stop (I could still see a very tiny opening inside the carburetor throat.) and the engine continued to run at a ridiculous low idle -- had to throw a rag into the prop and even that didn't work on the 1st attempt.

I'm beginning to think this engine is going to dramatically over-power this 1/4-scale Cap and I'm going to love it. I'm especially looking forward to a head-to-head comparison with another club member's plane with a Saito 180 on it. There is no doubt in my mind that the difference will be very noticeable.

Jim,

I've flown several with the Moki 1.8 and it is over-powered. And you will love it. I think that it's the perfect combo for my tastes. Mine with the 2.10 is overkill, I had to do a lot of work to put it in and not pay a weight penalty...
Make sure that the firewall is securely attatched. It likes to delaminate and fracture the fuse sides at the firewall. I ended up wrapping mine with glass.
Double up the wing dowel plates. They will wear into oblong openings.
The biggest problem is that the ply is very poor quality and putting a huge motor on it exacerbates related problems.

Chris

Chris,

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have liberally coated the entire nose section with epoxy and will continue to monitor the firewall for delamination -- it sure looks strong to me in its current configuration.

I already reinforced the dowels themselves -- inserted the wood dowel into carbon fiber rods and installed them into the wing. I did this because I wore groove lines in the dowels on my US 60. I have also thoroughly coated the wing dowel plates themselves with a liberal coat of epoxi -- again I will keep a close eye on them and endeavor to try to strengthen them even more.

How did you mount the Moki 2.10 and how much of the cow did you have to carve? I asked this because I am using the provided engine mount and find that, although the prop shaft lines up in the center virtically it is a little bit low horizontally. I will have to mount the cowl with a very slight down angle to center the shaft. I also had to carve the cowl on the left side to make clearance for the bottom of the cylinder when the engine is mounted sideways -- I will probably carve an opposite slot on the top of the cylinder as well for good airflow

Your thoughts???.

Which H-9 Cap are you guys talking about, the 73" or the 80"?

I assume it is the 73" because you say you got it a year ago and the 80" is relatively new, but wanted to make sure.

I was thinking of a Moki 1.35 or OS 1.60 . . .

I was talking about the 73" version. Either the Moki 1.35 or OS 1.60 would be a good selection for either version --- BUT --- the 73" tends to be a tail-heavy airplane that will require a lot of weight to balance with the Moki 1.35 or OS 1.60. By the time you add the weight in the nose you loose a lot of the inherent power-to-weight advantage you get with those engines. By going to the Moki 1.80 I not only gain 1/2 horse power over the OS but I get the extra weight I need in the nose to help balance the airplane.

Good point on the weight, I didn't realize the plane was typically tail heavy. Are you running two elevator servos in the tail?

Are you using the radial mount for the Moki 1.80? Also, what muffler and prop (size) are you using?

Thanks,
Lance

Yes, I am running dual elevator servos (2) HS-5625s. They will not be installed in the tail because of the tail-heavy tendency of the airplane. I'm not sure yet whether they will install in their normal position or aft of the wing saddle -- depends on the CG calculation. I also want to install a 24oz tank on the CG to give decent flight time for the Moki.

You cannot use the radial mount due to the design of the Cap's firewall. The engine installs just fine with the mounts supplied with the airplane. The only problem I see is the virtical alignment of the shaft with the cowl -- I will have to tilt the cowl down slightly to center the shaft. The horizontal alignment was perfect.

Engine installation without the cowl.

Jim,
I experienced the same thing on a recent project. But I used medium fuel line throw out without a cline regulator on my Moki 1.80. I too could not get a reading of less then ~6500 at full throttle with high speed needle screwed out until it almost fell out. I replaced all the medium tubing with large tubing including the clung and brass tubing in the tank. Now I can get a very rich run at full throttle. So you may need to do that.

-Scott

Fuel line is all large except internal to tank. I was actually told that the only critical line is between the regulator and the carburetor.

My break-in is currently on hold because when I tried to run it today is started backwards, threw the prop, and almost ran away -- don't know what it got to without the load from the prop. Lucky for my I found both the prop washer and prop nut. Its just too cold and too difficult to start this engine because of that.

Here is my fuel line configuration:

Hi, I'm thinking in a biger fuel tank I'm using the stock one and w/os 160 I only have about 7 to 8 min. What 24 oz fuel tank are u using? beause there is not much room for a biger one?
Rgds,
Cristian

I'm confused.
I have the Moki 1.8 on my Hanger 9 Edge 540 and I find the performance to be exceptional.
Unlimited vertical, although not shocking in any way, just really great.
The dang engine ticks like a clock and I have run about 5 gallons through it and never had a flame out yet!
In fact the best engine I have ever owned hands down.
What I am wondering is, why the cline pump?
I have regular size fuel line through out and no pump, just the same old muffler pressure?!
Does the cline pump give you more power, performance, reliability?
Just a question, not trying to sound like the smart guy.
Well...........cause obviously, Im not.

Lean540

You and me both, lean540! I'd rather have experience than smarts. I followed the importer's notes for my Moki 2.10 and ran 3/32" fuel line throughout with no problem getting a rich enough mixture to load up the engine. I ran Morgan Mach7 5% fuel with 1/2 castor and 1/2 synthetic oil. I sold the engine to an ofb who changed fuels and added castor to whatever fuel he decided to run, and the fuel line would not flow enough to allow the mixture to richen up. Evidently the big Moki sucks enough fuel to make fuel line diameter critical and dependent on oil per centage. He replaced everything from the clunk to the carburetor with large diameter line in order to run his fuel. Also, don't even try to flip a big Moki through. For the first start of the day, make sure the engine is wet with fuel and merely bump the prop backwards; it will kick and start frontwards every time. All starts after that, don't even choke or prime, just bump backwards (or twist the spinner backwards!) and off you go. Terrific engine! My choice for any airplane up to thirty pounds...JIM

I have 2 of these caps one with the Moki and the other has an O.S 1.60. Neither one needed any extra weight to balance, the Moki and a 6v. battery mounted on the tank did it for one and for the other I mounted my throttle servo up on the backside of the firewall and mounted the battery on top of the tank I ran dual elevator servo's in both and on the one with the 1.60 I just moved the rudder servo forward a few inches, that took care of the balance. You don't have to add a bunch of weight for balance with the 1.60 just move things around a bit .