I thought I would sum up the staggerwing for folks. The lower right wing issue is resolved through Top-Flite (see other thread). This airplane builds very straight forward and the retracts are perfect and easy to install without any mods. I will continue to post pics to help the next fellow out. This kit is refreshing to build to say the least. Top-Flite includes so much hardware, even retract wood frames for the valve and air tank and the ball-link for the valve. They really thought this one out.

Here are some pics of the tail wheel retract. This can be operated by using a servo or a air cylinder purchased seperately from the gear. The pushrod housing is aligned perfectly and installed already for you. I bought the cylinder but after seeing how simple the servo would be to connect, I am going to use a servo and mix it in my radio. The gear doors are simple, just a little time sonsuming.

The main gear doors are already hinged and very acuurately detailed on the inside of the doors. Th cowling is beautiful and will accomodate most engines (in the range) without much butchering.

It does look like a top quality arf.
Are the retract bays large enough to hold 3 to 3 1/2" grass tires ?

Lear31A,
I am very excited about getting mine. Can you tell me the cowl dimensions and the distance from the firewall to the front of the cowl? I want to put a Q-35 on her and want to know if it will fit.

Thanks

Husker: Here is a pic of 4" Sullivan Skylite wheels. The wheel wells are plenty big. Unfortunately, these wheels will not fit the Robart gear b/c the wheels are too wide. \
Navy: The manual suggest the spinner back plate be 6" from the fire wall and the cowl is very roomy inside. I will have to measure the inside of the cowl and get back to you. You can probably tell by the pic above with the ruler.

The next hot thing is Chinese will fly them for you, just send money they will send letters with photos of how you plane flew that day.[sm=shades_smile.gif]

Let us know if you decide to give them a try at flying yours. That would save alot of time!

oh boy, here we go..............

ANYWAY, back to the goods..........
I mounted my air valve stem under the belly and is easy to get to while sitting on the gear.
The pull/pull tailwheel is a no-brainer, but time consuming. Be sure you have connected all the tailwheel pushrod and pull/pull wires before installing the gear doors. It gets really tight back there after the doors are on. The pilot looks ok as well!

I usually only go for warbords but this plane looks like a beauty !!!!
Are you going to add any interior detail ? Dose the servo bay allow for more detail if the modeler chooses to go with a full interior ?
Thanks for answering because I cant tell from the pics

The kit comes with a black floor that slides into place with the pilot attached to the board. It is definately possible to add alot of detail, just not depth b/c the fuel tank is under the board. I will take some photos of it.

Thanks great info

Turns out this thread should be strictly about the gear. The main gear doors go on somewhat easily, just a bit time consuming. You can see in the pic that gear down=GOOD, Gear up=BAD. I spent a while adjusting the doors to close flush. Also, the manual suggest drilling and tapping the gear strut. I found it easier to drill through the strut and then place the screw from the inside of the strut protruding through the outside of the door and then put a lock washer and nut on. On the wire that pulls the bottom of the door open/closed, simply bend the outside of it beside the place that it slides through at the 2 main screws. The manual has you get your dremel tool out and cut away a slot to put a wheel coller, simply bending the wire works and is ALOT less time consuming. Hopefully this info will help someone on their build. Now, what engine??

Hopefully these pics will explain the cockpit. The pieces are just dry fitted in place. I will paint all exposed wood grey or black. Also, there are two molded seat backs that will be in there.

Looks good , allows for as much or as little detail as you want

It would be easy to fabricate a new instrument panel and add guages and other goodies from Hobby Lobby.

Nice job, on the assembly. Thanks for showing us.

Lear, Looks like you are doing a great job. I have built and flown many Staggerwings in the past. I have a Byron Staggerwing near completion. These models are with in inches of each other. One concern is your use of a snap on ball link for your air valve. I would change it out for a clevis that can be locked to keep it form comming off. If your servo set up gets a little out of wack, this could lead to the ball link being poped off. Belly landing is not fun. Course that was one of the selling points of the full scale Stagg. Beech had one belly in three times during a demonstration to prove that if the retracts were inoperative the plane could belly in with little to no damage on a grass strip. Retractable landing gear were not very common when this plane came out and pilots were afraid of them. Anyhow, can't wait to here how your first flight goes. If it is anything like my Staggs, the plane will be a floater on landings, and you will be surprized at how well they handle. I have flown two full size G model Staggerwing Beechs and can attest to there great handling. Got to love the Staggs.
Gary

Gary, thats probably a good idea, I will change the ball link to a clevis. What engine did you have on your Byron?

Also, after spending a countless amount of time reading about the MOKI 2.10 engines, I am sold. This will be the engine for the Staggerwing. They are no longer sold as MOKI and are hard to find low time ones. I have found one and made an offer, so we will see. That engine evidentally runs like no other. I have never read so many positive comments on an engine. The saga continues............

Well, it is moving along rather quickly now. The stabs slide on after after a little 80 grit. The cowl really makes it look huge, b/c it is really big!

Lear -
On my Byron, I have a Quadra 35. It weighs 19lbs and flys it fine. The scale size between the two is very close - the Byron ws is 77". That's why I am so interested in seeing if it will fit the TF Staggerwing. Love the sound of the gasser, and the ease of operation, not to mention the relative ease on the wallet of the fuel...

I am with you on the gas engines. I dont mind the plug sticking out of the bottom of the cowl, it has to be cut some anyway for cooling. I really want a gas engine but the G38 will not fit b/c it is rear exhaust. ( I am assuming it wont fit) There is only 6" to play with from the firewall to the prop, so, most engines that have the carb or exhaust in the rear would be really tight, if it would work at all. The G62 would work but would be alot of weight,etc. But hey, this is the fun part of this hobby, researching and buying just the right motor,right?

Does anyone have any idea wether a Moki 2.1 or a 1.8 fit inside the cowl horizontally? I cannot find any dimensions on the Moki's. I really want a gas engine for this project.

If you mount it side wise the head will stick out the side of the cowl. It will fit inverted but the 2.10 does not like being inverted.

Thank you sir. The decision is made finally! I just ordered a BCMA40 gas engine. The dimensions are perfect and this thing is light. I cant wait to see it.