visioneer_one

Thanks very much for this tip! Could you let me know the name of the product you use or a suitable alternative should the stuff you use not be available here in the states? I just picked up 4 more NIP discontinued FMA's today ($60.00 for all 4 - Woo Hoo!) at the "Northwest Expo" (our version of Toledo). I'd like to "pot" these along with my others in one sitting. Any help & a bit more detail on the process would be appreciated. Thank very much!
Steve B.

P.S. Also picked up another new U-Can at the Chief Aircraft booth. $179.00 with no tax - saved a few coins & now have a back up when that sudden gravity surge hits

<<...also picked another U-Can...>>

That's right, rub it in!<G> I'm chomping at the bit; WHERE is that stupid boat?

My buddy lets me get a flight in on his when we're at the field, but that just makes it worse...

Steve

Dirk,

My pal and I are running YS 91 FZs, his in a UCD and mine in a Kangke CAP Sport (but it will be in a UCD just as soon as my hobby shop guy gets one in). The UCD is a bit lighter, and of course much more agile, but the airplanes are about the same size. He is running a home-brew 20/20 blend, I'm running Cool Power 15%.

We've found that the best prop for our purposes is the APC 16x4W. We were running APC 16x6, but Dave Shadel advised that the static rpm we were getting was a bit too low for keeping the engine happy. I had thought the 16x4W was allowing the engine to overspeed, but no.

Anyway, this prop is amazing. It's like putting brakes on your model. Got a floater that just doesn't want to come down (i.e., a UCD without spoilerons on a calm day)? No problem. Chop to idle and watch that big boat paddle slow your plane down to a walk.

Acceleration is unbelievable as well. You will sacrifice some top end speed, but we're not flying pylon racers here. Even at that, you'll still be able to smoke most of the two-banger sport ships in the pattern. Plus, wide open it makes a really weird howling sound that will get everybody's attention.

Steve

Just noticed your question. I use Permatex "Ultra Copper Sensor-Safe RTV" to fix the wires in place. I picked up the current tube at K-Mart, so you shouldn't have any problem finding it. Should you need to substitute another brand, make sure it says that its the "sensor safe" type for automotive use. Like I mentioned earlier - don't use regular clear silicone RTV - that stuff releases acetic acid as it cures, and will munch your servo's electronics in short order.

The procedure is quite simple. Open the bottom of the servo case, goop in enough RTV so that the wires are covered, close the case and wipe away any excess. Set the servo aside for a day or so before using it, as it takes a while for the RTV to cure completely.

visioneer_one

Thanks very much. Permatex products are readily available here in the states (though Kmart stores seem to be going the way of the dinosaur). If I can't find the one you mentioned, I'll drop by an electronics store to find something that has the neccesary properties.