Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated. I am really leaning toward gas.

maybe try a rcs 1.40 or 1.80 gas engine? other gas engines like brison, etc add quite a bit of weight. Glow I would go with an OS 1.6 or something similar.

My son and I both have the 1/4 scale Giles from G. P. We both use the OS 160 FX and really like it. Very reliable with plenty of power. In fact, I think this is at the higher end of the manufacturers recommendation. That said, I like more power than less. As the saying goes, you can always back off the throttle, but when you need more power with an undersized engine, well

By the way, the OS 160 also sounds much like a 4 stroke or gasser and is very reliable. Just remember to use the the larger sized fuel tubing in your gas tank and hose to the engine.

Good luck and hope this helps.

I have one with a Brison 2.4 in it. I would recommend this engine as well as a ZDZ (40 or 50cc) engine.

RFW1953 DID YOU HAFT TO MODIFY ANYTHING ON YOUR GILES202? STARTING MINE SOON. I HAVE A OS160FX TO GO ON IT.HOW DOES YOURS TAKEOFF AND LAND? THANKS EDDIE...

Aeroaviator:

ALFIRC just flew his giles with a ZDZ40 last sunday, in an e-mail 2 days ago he told me it was worth the price he paid for it.- he had it with the 1.60 FX before. sent hi,m a e-mail if you want first hand info on this formula, I have mine with 1.60FX and all I can say is that is o.k., I crashed with it 4 months ago and my engine has not been fine ever since.

THANKS EVERYONE!

OS bgx 1 3500 2.1 cid, recommended range is 1.60 to 2.0 2 stroke, spins a 20x8 apc at 8800 rpm's on 10 % .flies great

I didn't have to do any modifications with the OS 160 FX. I did have to cut the cowling for the Pitts muffler pipes but not too hard if you have a Dremel tool. CG was perfect, as the directions for this engine. No weight needed on mine, but you should check to be sure.

I am using a APC 16X10 composite prop. Son using the same and we really like how it flies. I practiced taxiing up and down the runway before I did my first flight. Be careful if you do this with any wind because she will want to get airborne on you if you aren't watching it. The Giles wants to fly.

I had my instructor do the maiden flight to trim it out for me. He has 30+ years experience, mostly with larger airplanes. I had flown a trainer and an ultra stick in sequence before the Giles. I also had access to G2 flight simulator and the add that has the Giles. It flies much like the simulator. Would recommend you do same if you have access.

As for flight tendencies, the Giles is gentle and user friendly, but much different than a 40 size airplane. You have to fly the Giles. Meaning, use plenty of power for take off and don't try to force it off the ground. Once in the air you can back down to 3/4 or 1/2 throttle to get the feel for her. I did figure 8's and standard left and right turns just taking my time. Get the feel for her.

On landing fly several approaches to get the feel for the speed. Be careful to not approach too slow because she will tip stall or snap if you come in too slow. On my down wind leg I slow to about 3 maybe 4 clicks on my Futaba Super 8 transmitter. On my base turn I let the nose drop and bring the throttle down to 2 maybe 3 clicks to set up for final with the nose in a down attitude. On final let the speed bleed off being careful to not get it too slow. This was difficult for me and I had several missed approaches before I got it right. She will want to soar on you if you come in too fast.
Once you get the speed right she will flare nicely and settle right in for a nice three point landing. I ran off the runway several times before I got it right. A little tail waggle helps to slow it down which you will mostly likely need. You can practice this too when you practice taxiing up and down the runway.

People in our club say it's not as likely to snap or tip stall on you as the CAP. I have never flown a Cap so can't say. Just watch your speed on your landing approach.

Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun.

wfw1953


thanks, im sure it will help alot. hope to fly mine soon.did you haft to modify the fusaluge any at the hoz, stablelizer?

eddie.

For me, this is my second Giles due to a wing failure and yes, Great Planes did replace, so I have assembled two of these and helped son on his. All three went together very easily - no modifications needed. Ours were later models after early production runs. I read the comments on other threads about incidence problems, etc. Never had any problem with ours.

The canopy is a bit flimsy and can be challenging to cut out. It will crack easily if you don't cut straight and bind it somehow when cutting. Likewise, placing small pieces of ply wood, inside the fuselage, behind the cowling, for the cowling mounting screws to bite into were difficult to get in position. Not much room for fingers and in a tight area. Be sure to do this before you put the fuel tank in. Even then it's tight.

I read your post on a few other threads and someone mentioned to you to be careful with this airplane. I wouldn't tell you to be afraid of it, but as the other person said, this is not a cub. In some ways I think a cub can be more difficult to take off and land than the Giles. Especially with wind. I see guys all the time putting cubs in the fence. The Giles is fast and powerful with the 160 compared to flying the cub. So yes, be careful. Frankly I like flying the Giles much more than a cub. This is a totally different airplane. I'ts an acrobatic airplane designed for acrobatics. The cub is slow and more designed for scale flight, unless you get a clipped wing version with more power. standard

Like I said, it would really help you to use a simulator to better understand this airplane. If you don't have access to one, make sure you then will have someone with experience there with you for the first flights.

rfw1953, Im planing to start giles this week end, servo came in today.using Hobbico command cs-65 high torque everwhere but thr. im shore glad i dont haft to cut plane [i hope]
eddie,

Slingshot,
What engine are you using?

Not familiar with the servos you are using. I used Futaba S9001's, for the ailerons, rudder and elevators. I used two on separate channels for the elevators and a Y harness for the ailerons with a single channel. I think you are using a Futaba super 8 programmable transmitter. If so, then you will have to mix the elevators to get them working together with two separate channels if you use this configuration. If memory serves me right I think I used channels 2 and 7 for the elevators.

Also, and this is just my opinion . I purchased all new hardware. Example I used single post Dubros control horns for the ailerons, rudder and elevators. I never have been able to drill three straight holes that line up correctly when using the stock control horns. Yuk! hate them I also used a Duros tank which I recommend if you don't want a leaky fuel tank. You will need good large fuel line and larger copper tubes for in the tank or the 160 will not run well because the small stock copper line will starve the engine for fuel. Used 440 rods since using high torque servos. Also used metal Dubros thread-less clevises and soldered them for added strength. Used silver solder. Would also recommend using parson clips to secure all wire connections vs electrical tape or floss string that some folks use. I used an OS metal mount for the 160. Don't like those plastic adjustable mounts. You can get a very nice Dave Brown spinner that cost around 40.00 US. I think the 4" spinner is the right one. Need to check the size and will need the optional adapter to fit the spinner. Used a JR combination switch that has a charge and battery tester plug so you don't have to remove the wing each time to check your battery power or to charge the battery. The JR switch is what most in our club use because they tell me the switch connections are better than many other products. Don't want this to fail due to vibration and lose the airplane.May be wrong on this one, but it's what I have been told. Also will need a JR plug on the battery to accomidate the JR switch. I think I used a Sanyo 1100 mah battery.

Now, I learned all this from our club field director who has much more experience than I do. He taught me well and I listened to him and haven't been sorry. If you elect to use the stock hardware, that comes with the kit and many do, well, it may work and then maybe it won't. Some use the stock hardware. It cost a bit more to get the better hardware, but in the end you have a much more enjoyable airplane with less nagging problems. Again, this is my opinion, learned form those who know more. You have to choose for yourself. .....

Geistware, im using a OS 160 FX.

We're flying one with a Moki 2.10. It fits perfectly with the radial mount. It torque rolls like a top, spins real fast. In fact it rolls every way real fast. My favorite manuver is a "Turbine roll" - starting deep right perform a 4 second slow roll, a 2 second roll, a 1 second roll and a full deflection roll (prob. 550-600 deg./sec.?). Aside from flat spinning it into the ground it's been great. No problems with tip stalling or anything else. Check the incidences! I've heard about some with -4 on the tail, warped wings.... set everything to 0-0-0.

Chris

CHRIS300s, i hope mine does as good as yours.eddie

Eddie,
While this one isn't super-mega-ultra light it flys great. It's interesting because it actually flies differently than and Extra or a Cap or and Edge...
I'm on the heavy side at 12.5 lbs but still have no trouble with harriers, waterfalls, torque rolls and such. For rolling manuvers there is nothing like it. After the first roll during the maiden flight I couldn't stop doing 4 points, 8 points, 16 points, rolling circles, rolling loops, 1/2 roll square loops.
I eventually lost interest in it for my 1/4 Cap and 1/3 Cap, but after this thread I'm going to make sure that it's up to snuff when the ground thaws.
Having said that, I cannot stress strongly enough the need to put a meter on the wings and tail! ANY AIRCRAFT that is expected to transition through a stall and remain upright (pop-up, harrier...) must be free of warps. A 1/2 deg. variance between wingtips turns a great 3D machine into a dog, especially in 1/4 scale. If you find the wings rocking check the incidences first.

Chris