Texas rc planes??
#1
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From: pilot mountain,
NC
Anyone bought from this site? What brand of planes are they? I'm looking at the .40 Cap shipped for $112.
http://www.texasrcplanes.com/
http://www.texasrcplanes.com/
#2
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From: seguin, TX
I've talked with the owner. The planes are made by cy models in china. I'm waiting on his june shipment to come in. Theres a couple of the planes I want too. The edge 540=40 looks nice. He needs to update his web site. Not all the planes are giving the specs on them.
#4
Some of those planes are on the nitroplanes website. I hope his shipping is a little cheaper than nitroplanes. I have ordered from Nitroplanes but not that site. The included hardware is pretty lousy in most, if not all of these kits (Just my opinion). The covering can be hit or miss. They just take a little extra time to assemble right. I am pleased with the few I have for the price.
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From: pilot mountain,
NC
Estimated shipping was around $10--------much cheaper than nitro models. Didn't order it though. I made the mistake of looking at a funtana 50 at my LSH today. Needless to say, I took it home. But I'll definately order the Cap after I crash my next one. (Just hope it's not the funtana.
)
)
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From: MADILL,
OK
I bought the Explorer L. Just test flew it today the hardwood stick broke in the middle that joins the elevators. Almost crashed because of this problem. I didn't like the hardware either, the pushrods are a joke. I removed the nose gear block because the wood underneath is not sealed. This is a very hard task to do because they used regular nuts not blind nuts. The upside is that the quality is good and it only cost me $78.00 including shipping, and it's hard to beat that.
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From: lufkin,
TX
4000686798, how did you fix the elevator? I have one with about 6 flights on it with no problems. I looked at it before it was installed and it did look kind of weak. Also We fly mostly off grass and I am going to make it a tail dragger. With a few design mods this should be an OK plane.
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From: MADILL,
OK
I have not fixed it as of yet. I have two options. 1. Run another pushrod and tie them together at the servo like other planes I have had. 2. Remove the elevator halves and do a joiner wire. I am leaning toward doing the second pushrod, I think this will be the easy route. Once fixed I will post pictures.
Also to anyone building one of these models. Do not use the precut pushrod exits for rudder, you will end up having the rudder and nose gear moving in the opposite directions. What ever you do make sure the rudder pushrod exits the same side as the nose gear pushrod and it will work correctly. Don't ask me how I know!
Also to anyone building one of these models. Do not use the precut pushrod exits for rudder, you will end up having the rudder and nose gear moving in the opposite directions. What ever you do make sure the rudder pushrod exits the same side as the nose gear pushrod and it will work correctly. Don't ask me how I know!
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From: lufkin,
TX
Do not use the precut pushrod exits for rudder, you will end up having the rudder and nose gear moving in the opposite directions. What ever you do make sure the rudder pushrod exits the same side as the nose gear pushrod and it will work correctly. Don't ask me how I know!
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From: Houston, TX
I don't know these people, as I live in Houston, but they are located in a small town very near where I grew up so they must be alright
. Next time I visit Mom, I will stop by there as it is directly on my route home. Thanks for posting the info.
. Next time I visit Mom, I will stop by there as it is directly on my route home. Thanks for posting the info.



