U-can-do 60 questions
#1
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From: College Station,
TX
Ok just got the kit in a few minutes ago.....
2 questions:
A. Does anyone use just the bolts to hold the horizontal down? that certainly would be useful to have as an option until I get my teauno cover back for my truck, but I'm not sure how strong that will really be.
B. should I scapr these 2-56 rdos and stock horns for 4-40's and some heavier duty horns, or will these work fairly well?
2 questions:
A. Does anyone use just the bolts to hold the horizontal down? that certainly would be useful to have as an option until I get my teauno cover back for my truck, but I'm not sure how strong that will really be.
B. should I scapr these 2-56 rdos and stock horns for 4-40's and some heavier duty horns, or will these work fairly well?
#2
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From: PerthWA, AUSTRALIA
I used just the bolts for the horizontal stabiliser on my first one. They worked fine. I'm not sure how long they will work until things get a little loose if you continually remove and replace the stabiliser though.
On the one I have now, I have eopxied the stab in place - as well as using the bolts.
I would strongly recommend replacing the 2-56 rods with 4-40 ones. The 2-56 are fine for sport flying but if you use any 3d type throws they are not up to the job.
I use 4-40 rod with some CF tubing epoxied over it for mine.
The stock Horns are Ok to use (They are genuine Great Planes ones). I replaced mine as a matter of habit because I prefer to use MK's on everything but think it may have been a bit of overkill.
On the one I have now, I have eopxied the stab in place - as well as using the bolts.
I would strongly recommend replacing the 2-56 rods with 4-40 ones. The 2-56 are fine for sport flying but if you use any 3d type throws they are not up to the job.
I use 4-40 rod with some CF tubing epoxied over it for mine.
The stock Horns are Ok to use (They are genuine Great Planes ones). I replaced mine as a matter of habit because I prefer to use MK's on everything but think it may have been a bit of overkill.
#3

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ORIGINAL: txaggie08
A. Does anyone use just the bolts to hold the horizontal down? that certainly would be useful to have as an option until I get my teauno cover back for my truck, but I'm not sure how strong that will really be.
B. should I scapr these 2-56 rdos and stock horns for 4-40's and some heavier duty horns, or will these work fairly well?
A. Does anyone use just the bolts to hold the horizontal down? that certainly would be useful to have as an option until I get my teauno cover back for my truck, but I'm not sure how strong that will really be.
B. should I scapr these 2-56 rdos and stock horns for 4-40's and some heavier duty horns, or will these work fairly well?
B- yes, go 4-40 if you can help it. The 2-56 will bend under certain conditions
good luck and have fun
#4
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From: College Station,
TX
Thanks to both of you for quick responses!
I have some sullivan dual ended 4-40's and golden clevises in my parts box, so everything but the throttle will be replaced. Once I get my bed cover back on my truck i'll epoxy the stab down I think.....till then I'll leave it undone.
I have some sullivan dual ended 4-40's and golden clevises in my parts box, so everything but the throttle will be replaced. Once I get my bed cover back on my truck i'll epoxy the stab down I think.....till then I'll leave it undone.
#5
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From: PerthWA, AUSTRALIA
It's also a good idea to strengthen the undercarriage mount area.
Some wait until it breaks off, others do it straight away.
On one of mine, I found that the covering was not well stuck down. It was stuck OK to the wood but where covering overlapped (Like the checker underneath and the red and blue trims on the tail) it came loose real easy. Take out the iron and give it a thorough ironing.
Some wait until it breaks off, others do it straight away.
On one of mine, I found that the covering was not well stuck down. It was stuck OK to the wood but where covering overlapped (Like the checker underneath and the red and blue trims on the tail) it came loose real easy. Take out the iron and give it a thorough ironing.
#7
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From: College Station,
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woohoo I found out somethign useful.......the header piper on my ST motor is long enough I can install the muffler outside the plane..... that means I only have to mak a 1 inch hole for it!!!
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From: PerthWA, AUSTRALIA
Gee - That big a hole
My Saito exhaust requires an even smaller hole than that
Seriously though. What size ST? (Just curious is all).
My Saito exhaust requires an even smaller hole than that

Seriously though. What size ST? (Just curious is all).
#10
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From: PerthWA, AUSTRALIA
Should be OK - make sure you have a fine prop though. these things don't like to go too fast. I like the APC W series in a 4" pitch for them (Not sure what diameter will suit that engine). My UCD 60/90's are one of my favourite lazy day fliers. I tend to do stupid things with them though (Like Dumb thumbing) but I always like to have one in the hanger.
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From: Oxfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi!
I managed to mount my OS91 sideways, as the tank it too high to run a 2st inverted, there is just about enough clearance to do this...I hate inverted 2st anyway!
I bolted and epoxied the horizontal fin.
I replaced all the 2-56 with 4-40, these are big surfaces, better to be safe than sorry.
Cheers
W
I managed to mount my OS91 sideways, as the tank it too high to run a 2st inverted, there is just about enough clearance to do this...I hate inverted 2st anyway!
I bolted and epoxied the horizontal fin.
I replaced all the 2-56 with 4-40, these are big surfaces, better to be safe than sorry.
Cheers
W
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From: Carrollton
txaggie08,
4-40 rods are the ojnly way to go on this plane. I put a YS91 four stroke in mine which has ball links on the servo ends and Dubro heavy duty threaded rods with anchors on the control surfaces. Ausssiesteve also brought up a very good point you REALLY should consider. The landing gear block on this plane is PURE JUNK!![:'(]. Flying Models magazine a while back had an article that fixed the problem which is really quite easy. It involves carefully cutting out the old block (which isn't much) and lamenating together some aircraft plywood together to fit between the two formers and about 1 1/4" long, then drilling through the plywood block for 8-32 bolts and blind nuts to hold the landing gear on. It's like the man said in the article. You can fix it now or fix it later, but if you don want holes punched through your wings by your wheel pants, you should fix it now. Good luck with your plane, I hope you enjoy it.
Fly safe and have fun!!

David
4-40 rods are the ojnly way to go on this plane. I put a YS91 four stroke in mine which has ball links on the servo ends and Dubro heavy duty threaded rods with anchors on the control surfaces. Ausssiesteve also brought up a very good point you REALLY should consider. The landing gear block on this plane is PURE JUNK!![:'(]. Flying Models magazine a while back had an article that fixed the problem which is really quite easy. It involves carefully cutting out the old block (which isn't much) and lamenating together some aircraft plywood together to fit between the two formers and about 1 1/4" long, then drilling through the plywood block for 8-32 bolts and blind nuts to hold the landing gear on. It's like the man said in the article. You can fix it now or fix it later, but if you don want holes punched through your wings by your wheel pants, you should fix it now. Good luck with your plane, I hope you enjoy it.
Fly safe and have fun!!


David
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From: Back home in,
OH
Hey Aggie!
I had very good luck with my UCD.
I used the stab attachment supplied but used blue Loctite to keep it from loosening.
If you are taking yours apart regularly perhaps you could look at installing some Nylock nuts in
place of the blind nuts.
I used the supplied control horns but, like everyone else, I used 4-40 hardware.
The landing gear block.
I halfway reinforced mine when I was putting it together and had no problems.
If you are going to run a YS I recommend using a Hyde mount.
You can check out Central Hobbies for types.
You don't need a $200+ one with nose support.
The approx $60 one will more than pay for itself in improved longevity of the plane and radio.
Good luck!
JLK
I had very good luck with my UCD.
I used the stab attachment supplied but used blue Loctite to keep it from loosening.
If you are taking yours apart regularly perhaps you could look at installing some Nylock nuts in
place of the blind nuts.
I used the supplied control horns but, like everyone else, I used 4-40 hardware.
The landing gear block.
I halfway reinforced mine when I was putting it together and had no problems.
If you are going to run a YS I recommend using a Hyde mount.
You can check out Central Hobbies for types.
You don't need a $200+ one with nose support.
The approx $60 one will more than pay for itself in improved longevity of the plane and radio.
Good luck!
JLK



