norm

Hi Dave

Those are my planes! Except for the one in the front, The Ziroli B-25 belongs to a fellow named John. I do not know how this picture got there, this is weird , but they are really nice and still flying.

You can see the emblem I got made to put on them "Stormin Norman" . Always nice to see them.

Normand

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

That's awesome Norman! These planes are awesome and I guess great minds think alike!! Love the Stormin Normin!!!

Don't you just love Winter building season?!! Except I have too many projects going. Really need to finish everything to get back to the B-17.

Dave

norm

Wow Dave,

This is my next one, I've been following speedracer's build and I'm quite interested in following your work on the wingspan to compare notes. Next winter the timer will be on and the wingspan will be on the table if I dont fall in love with a Mosquito or a A-26... Just plane crazy

Check out the Lancaster from time to time, this is almost done and will be flying this summer : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...tm.htm#8051097

Please paste the link for the bay doors when you have time and your work.

Normand

Speedracer2112

norm

You said that right! You're the doctor so throw away the pills, Need no cure


Normand

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Norman,

Here's the link to the BB from WS Models. Michael has redesigned the bombs so there no longer is a plywood center, etc. so you can ignore that part. He also tweaked the pylons.

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...569&PN=3&TPN=1

Speed, always love a reunion!!! And you're right... this B-25 is a gateway to bigger mutli engine airplanes!

Dave

Airnondas

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Dave,

I Love all of them Especially TopFlite models.

I own a few of them as well, and as far as ARF's is concerned, you can't beat TopFLite.

Their B-25 ARF is a superb model.

As for the Ziroli B-25, that is in a class of its own, truly awesome looking and flying as well.

Cheers,

____________________


Airnondas.

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

Pictures of my cockpit install. I used 8 magnets to secure the cockpit in place. I built the back using 1/8" balsa wood and the rails were made out of a hardwood.

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

Does anyone have any good pictures or pointers regarding the installation of the inboard and outboard door pushrods? I'm trying to follow from page 17, but I'm apparently missing something important because it's just not working for me. On page 17, the 2.5" "inboard door pushrod" is cut and bent according to step 12, then step 13 calls that same piece the "outboard door pushrod" while the "inboard door pushrod is now straight. I continued in the manual on page 18 and tried to judge the connections based on the pictures, but neither connector is working properly. The straight connector is not long enough and the bent connector hits the door hits the nacelle in the open position and hits the arm of the bellcrank level as it tries to rotate...there must be an easier way to do this!

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Fidelity,

I just pulled out my manual and looked because this sounded familiar. The picture in step 13 on page 17 is wrong. I crossed out Outboard and Inboard and reversed them in the manual.

Also, I used RCDon's write up a lot when I built mine... http://www.rcdon.com/html/top_flite_...ell_proje.html

Dave

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks djstar39. Unfortunately, RCDon didn't use the recommended setup so that doesn't help much. I'm looking for someone who's completed this setup before to take some measurements or detailed pictures of what the linkages should look like, length, bend angles, etc. The manual has been excellent so far on this build but this part of the manual is very limited.

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

I have this model and I can take a look but I know I followed that section exactly except for the picture that had inboard and outboard reversed. I didn't follow RCDon on this part. I do remember that there was some tweaking to get the geometry just right but the lengths and the bends were pretty close.

Dave

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

On page 17, item 13...the inboard bar (straight bar) has a fair amount of space between the clevises. In the picture below that, it has less than 1mm of space. Which connectors have the 1/8" cut clevises? I originally did that for the inboard, or straight connector, but later believed they were talking about the bent pushrod so I switched them around.

Regarding the bent pushrod, when I install the clevis that was shortened by 1/8" and turn the clevis all the way to the end of the threaded portion, it still hits the side of the nacelle when fully extended...leading me to believe I have to put more of a bend on the line or further shorten the clevis.

It would really help if someone could take a picture of their working clevis installs while over top of the picture on page 17, item 12. That way, I could figure out exactly what it should look like and proceed. I'm going to give it another shot today, and I'm sure that I'm just missing something simple, but this is probably the hardest part of the build so far.

Speedracer2112

I have a pretty good photo of them on page 119.

Speed

Speedracer2112

I looked at your photos. Why do you have fixed gear in place? Are you installing retracts? If you are, I think you have the wrong arms.

SR

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

What do you mean by wrong arms? I noticed some others in the wooden parts but didn't know which was which. I have fixed gear do I can finish the build until the robart electric gear arrive.

Speedracer2112

You have to have the retracts to install the doors correctly. The arm should have the notch.

SR

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Mine looks exactly like Speeds except I got the aluminum arm vs the plywood one that is supplied with the ARF.

Dave

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

I'm glad I tested my epoxy hinges with a light tap before moving any further in the build. WOW, they snapped clean with a VERY light tap. I used a rubber handle from a screwdriver and all 8 hinges popped clean off with almost no effort. The epoxy was cut away, the connectors were scuffed up and I reinstalled all the hinges with JB weld.

Thank you for the tip!

Also, thank you for the pictures on the arms. I think a few of my connections are slightly different so I have some changing to do once I fix these door hinges.

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Hang in there Fidelity! Geometry for LG doors can be a bit of a pain with tweaking here and there. But once you get the bends just right, it's a beautiful thing.

Dave

B-Squared

Hey Matt...welcome to the world of gear doors. Fun isn't it? Don't worry, I'll send you all the dimensions from my airpla...oh wait wrong bird...sorry, you're on your own!!! Canopy looks good...I like the magnet thing.

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

How do the ESM doors close? Do you have a separate actuator or does it use the same type of linkage assembly? I've spent a good 100 hours on this build to date and I have about 80% of the build complete. I had to jump around the manual a lot because the Robart retracts haven't arrived as planned. Once the JB weld dries up a bit more, I'm going to install the wings on the fuselage, run the servo leads and test all the control surfaces. I still have to cut the cowls, install the top fiberglass portion over the inboard wing and configure the gear door linkage...but that shouldn't take more than another 25-30 hours. :-) I attempted to cut one of the engine cowls and I completely butchered the cowl...so I'm going to wait until Pacoflyer comes over before attempting round 2.

I cut a LITTLE more than I should have...any it's still not enough. The marks I made were to far aft...so I have a hole behind the engine and not enough space in front. I followed pictures from page 119 but the ASP 91 apparently requires a smaller cut than the OS 95v engine.

I can only imagine what kind of cut you need for the OS 1.50 fs. :-)

B-Squared

You're not still using that old butter knife on the cowls are you...

Fidelity101

My Feedback: (13)

HA HA!

I took a few pictures of the work in progress. I've got the servos connected to the Power Expander Pro. The 4 flaps are controlled through the Smart Fly Equalizer 3D unit and the 2 rudders and steering wheel are controlled by another equalizer 3D controller. The flaps take 6 seconds to go from center to full deflection (1") using the Hitec Aurora 9 radio.

B-Squared

Wow the B-25 looks great...but is that an F-20 Tigershark I see in the background...HA!!!!! Keep up the good work. It's nice to see someone else spend enormous amounts of time gear doors.