NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Elmer's wood glue is one of the strongest glues around. It must have been something else. The wood will break before Elmer's glue joints will fail.


Ed Cregger

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I agree with you. I am not recommending the use of a .91 four-stroke.

Mine (kit built) was powered with an Enya 1.20R four-stroke. Mine latest one, an ARF version, will be powered by either an OS FS 1.20 pumped four-stroke, or by a Saito 1.25a. Who knows, my Super Tigre G2300 (1.40) may end up on it if I'm not satisfied with the power output of either four-stroke.


Ed Cregger

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The 125 is a wonderful engine. Really, so is the pumped OS. We sure do have some fine choices these days.

HUNTERANDJEFF

Ed, The glue used on the framework was kindof yellowish in color and was watersoluable ( I tested it ) so I don't really know what it was either. It was broken in many spots between the glue and the balsa like it never soaked into it. It must have dried very quickly to do that. I cannot wait to fly my Ultimate. 10 inches of snow one night followed by 1.5 inches of rain the next day at 47 degrees and today it is supose to reach 50! You can imagine the mess we have around here! my driveway is a big, slushy lake and my flight sim is down untill next week!!!! What a bummer!

HUNTERANDJEFF

Ram 3500, your comment on Sean Tuckers flying is spot on! He is a great pilot. I've seen him on YOUTUBE several times and if only I could see that in person. Yes, Ultimates should be flown differently than the other conventional type biplanes in my book also.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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It dawned on me after I made the post about Elmer's glue that I haven't kept track of all that Elmer's offers these days. My memories of Elmer's and Titebond (an aliphatic resin glue) are based upon information from decades ago. Things could have changed significantly since those days, even if those days seemed like yesterday to me. <G>

The old white Elmer's glue used to be super strong, but was not fuel proof. The aliphatic resin glues, such as Titebond, were fuel proof and very tough. Who knows what is on your Ultimate? Not me.

If one can stand a little cold (seldom below 30 degrees Fahrenheit), one can usually fly in my new home in North West Georgia. Unfortunately, being diabetic with lots of nerve damage below the waist, my feet feel freezing cold all of the time even when warm. I'm afraid to test them in the cold very much. Besides, Winter as I know it, never actually gets here most Winters, so there isn't too long of a wait until proper flying temps. Too bad you're not down this way so you could fly.

Be sure to tell us about your flying adventures when you do get a chance to fly. Post it as a continuation of this thread, please.


Ed Cregger

HUNTERANDJEFF

Thank you Ed. Those were some very kind words. I hope you feel better soon. Diabetes is nothing to muck with. Our club is building a new site now and it will be completed in May. 700' asphalt runway and a 900' grass runway with a big clubhouse and RV hookups. The runway was put in right before the snow hit and the clubhouse and storage building is constructed. I cannot wait. Right now, for us it is great to be a member. Check out redappleflyers.org once in a while to see our progress. Yeah, I sure wish that I could be there in the winter to fly. I wouldn't like to be there in the summer very long though the humidity and temp would kill this Northwestern boy!!!!!!!
Jeff

deadstickdan

My Feedback: (3)

I've got a Goldberg Ultimate ARF and really like it. It went together easily with no real issues. The Ultimate is a real hot rod and I enjoy it every time I take it out, I went with a YS91 and for me it's the perfect match for this model. It doesn't have unlimited vertical but it gets small fairly quick. The only draw back to the YS is that it really likes fuel. A lot of it! I would imagine the new YS 110 would be even more ideal. If I were to buy another Ultimate it would more than likely be the Goldberg. I like the colors of the Seagull, though.

Dan

ALO 111

I just maidened the world models ultimate 120. I used a os 120 ax 2 stroke and cannot think of using less .
World models are excellent quality with a lot of assembly already done, there hardwear is great as well.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Deadstick Dan,
That's always been one of the issues I have with engines above the 1.00 size, they really suck down a ton of fuel, and at almost 20 dollars a gallon it gets to hurting my wallet real fast!
Along the same vein, I spent many years building larger and then even larger planes. It doesn't take long to learn that the cost of setting up anything larger than a 60-90 size model can escalate very quickly. Once I was cleaned out by the thieves, I decided to restock my hangar with quite a few .30 -.46 sizes and electrics, and nothing larger than a .90 size to keep the costs down. The unexpected bonus I got from this is the easier storage. These smaller planes and their wings will tuck right into the ceiling joists in my basement and 2 strings with hooks will hold them there neatly and easily. They're safe here too, that's a big one for me.
Fortunately, my eyesight is still good so I can see the smaller ones flying at a distance.

Jim

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Hi, Jim.

I prefer the .32 to .55 powered models the best. If I had to make the decision to choose just one basic size of models, this is the size range that I would choose too.

These models are large enough to fly really well and small enough to operate economically and be easy to store.


Ed Cregger

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Ed
And of course, that's pretty close to the decision I had to make. The recent release of tons of what seem to be pretty well-made ARFs caught my eye, and the onset of viable electric power also has my interest. I started into the electrics pretty hard and then realized that here in Maine we don't have a great number experienced electric flyers for me to spend time with and learn from. I joined a club an hour from here and went there with my new electrics and some questions only to be snubbed pretty hard by these guys who thought I was a newbie because I was asking questions about setting up the electric models. So they're here, but the ones I've met so far, I'd just as soon have nothing to do with them. And at best they were intermediate flyers. I went back the next week with my Saito-powered birds and blew them away. I have a lot of friends in Texas who are actively into the electric models now, so I'm going to bide my time until I move back there and do a few things by phone with them in the meantime. This whole (silly) story is my lead-in to my plans to see how much effort electric flight requires, and whether electric is going to be viable by my standards with the 46, 60 and 90 sizers, and of course, whether it will save me time, trouble, and money in the long run. I have to say, I have a BIG bottle of 409, a roll of paper towels, and de-oiling a plane just doesn't bother me a bit. In fact, I'm a bit afraid that after 30 years I might suffer severe withdrawal without some nitro and castor oil soaking into my skin on a regular basis!
Back to the small-to-medium ARFs, I think that the most enjoyable thing has been the ability to break some of these new ARFs down easily (Wing tubes are COOL!) or even better, with some of them just popping them into my car or my truck bed in one piece. Probably the single coolest thing that has come from having to restock my hangar is the new Spektrum radio I got. Being an active flyer for 30 years now, I've been shot down my share of times, as have many of my friends. What a great feeling knowing that you're not going to be shot down! Of course, this now removes all doubt about the pilot error thing, so I'm going to have to be as good as I say I am......or I'll never hear the end of it!

Jim

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

You are right on about World Models. In the world of ARFs, they are in the top 10% IMO. That is in quality of airframe including fit and finish, covering, hardware quality and completeness (most even have pinned hinges installed correctly), quality of canopies and fiberglass parts, paint, added accessories like retracts and spinners (even good quality aluminum ones on some planes), and all this at competitive prices. Yes, World Models is proof that it can be done right, at an affordable price. Plus, they look good and fly great. I'm working on one of their AT6s and a 40 size Ultimate now. Both fine kits. Built the Rockwell P-51 last spring. Also a very nice ARF.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I fly my electric models (many of them RTFs) here around the house, or down the road a piece in a state park. I don't think I'm going to larger electric models until the battery prices drop considerably. Which, I doubt will be all that long.

I'm not an either/or type of person, but it took me many years to get this way. I can fly giant scale powered by large gas engines one day and RTF electric models the next day. I do not need to focus on any one type. I like variety.

I agree that the 2.4 GHz SS radios have been a very important milestone in our hobby. It is nice not having to worry about being shot down, or shooting down someone else inadvertently. Now, if we could just make the clubs forget about forcing us to use the frequency pin board for those of us on SS...


Ed Cregger

balsaeater

There is a new one graupner ultimate 1400 mm or 55 inch similar to seagull or Goldberg sitting in LHS with that santa christmas buy me look

https://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=9577

I particaly want to go with a MVVS 26cc 160 2 stroke glow preferably with tuned pipe as the club tow planes 10 year old one is still going stong and never gives problems even after three major crashes starts first flick every time using zero nitro and easy to tune and on half power dont use so much fuel as zero nitro gives you nearly double the range than 15% nitro and MVVS with tuned pipe and its high compresion is probably the same power as 160 OS with 15% nitro

Also with a shallow pitch biggest prop mayby even three blade so that as I come down from vertical dives I can get the slow down affect and when I use for hover it will hang with plenty punch out


Also for learning the basics of acro pattern shedule before going for mono wing

Also more easy compact to take on holidays on airliners and for small jap car I use

Also as back up extra tug for gliders for the club with reseve power

Going through the thread seeing its seems possible to use 180 on 55 inch gives me hope its possible

Realy I trust the largest glows a lot more than the smaller glows so its find the plane that fits this motor not the other way around
In all my other planes up to 90 size it electric for the last few years but but the cut off point for various reasons like draging around 2.5kw generator and stock investments in LIPO companies in the sky etc makes glow zero nitro at 160 size with tuned pipe reliivly so cheapand reliable and easy it glow in that size and non of the power losses from gasoline

I was also hoping that greneraly using motor at 1/4 to 3/4 gas the engine noise would be reduced using larger props as being eletric type hate unnessary excessive noise (and rarely using full power except for towing to get out of trouble )

Any ideas its a real bad idea chime in before I commit in Christmas for plane and January 2008 for motor
there is a Rodel cap RTC 2metre but I would prefer to do that next year with another MVVS 160

Balsaeater

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I like the MVVS/Evolution gas engines and presently have an Evolution 26cc gas/petrol engine.

I used to own an MVVS 26cc and 35cc, but sold them both to Father Moleski (Marty) of the r.m.rc.a newsgroup. He has had a few problems with the 26cc version's lower end. IIRC, he flies, or I should say flew, that engine a fair amount. Both of the engines I sold him were ignition/gas/petrol engines, as is my current Evolution 26cc engine.

I know that the gas versions of the 26cc engines do not produce the same power as an OS 1.60 on alcohol based fuel. Although the MVVS 1.60 glow engine might produce nearly the same power as the OS 1.60FX. Gas engines cannot produce as much power as the same engine optimized for alcohol fuel, even with the same displacement, with everything else being equal.

I'll have to give that Graupner Ultimate Biplane ARF a look-see. Thanks for the heads-up.

I love Ultimate Bipes, Pitts Specials, Christen Eagles, Mr. Mulligan, Clipped and full wing Piper Cubs and Bridi pattern ships. Those are my favorites. Oh, with an occasional delta wing configured model thrown in. Did I mention Ugly Stiks? I love them too, in all flavors.

I just ordered a Mr. Mulligan (forget the proper designation) Clipped Wing Monocoupe a while ago. Always wanted one, now one is on the way. Good old Santa Claus took care of me again.


Ed Cregger

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Ed, we'll be needing some pictures of that Mulligan when you have her done.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I will do my best to post pics of the Clipped Wing Monocoupe. That thing really looks good in the pics.

Now I'm debating whether my Saito 1.70 R3 or 3.25 R5 will power it. I should probably go gas with it, as it is designed to fly with a 25 - 35cc gas/petrol engine. I suspect that the R5 radial will be too heavy for the small wing. Don't know if the R3 1.70 will have enough grunt for it, but it sure would sound good.


Ed Cregger

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Is it the one KMP came out with?

mikeboyd

I had one of the GB .90-1.20 sized arfs and it flew great. I started with a 1.20 4S, but the wing loading was not to my liking. I mounted two mini high torque servos in the tail to couner the heavy 4S engine. It would climb out of sight and flew okay. They did not have the OS 1.20AX out then, so I opted for a .91 FX and it flew more on the wing, like the kind of flying you are looking for. Around this time, Tower dropped the price of their 30% Ultimate to the basement and I bought one, since I already had an unemployed 3W75 collecting dust in the hangar. Once I completed the 30%, the little Ultimate became a hangar king, so I traded it, ready to fly for a 9Z transmitter. It is still around somewhere.

A very good friend has one with a Saito 1.50 on it and it goes crazy. The 1.50 weighs about the same as a 1.20, but still, the landing gear in the arf isn't the strongest. If you go this big, you may want to beef the gear up. Also, put some servos in the rear, rather than adding weight, performance advantage of servos mounted close to the control surface, reduces the chances of flutter and blowing the surfaces during high speed aerobatics.

I really think the 1.20 AX would now be the engine of choice for this plane, expecially if you are thinking of any 3D at all. Ultimates can be addicting. Whenever I take my 30% to the field, everyone wants a shot at it, and they all giggle when they start the snaps and flat spins these planes accel at.

Good Luck and happy holidays,
Mike Boyd

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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It is this one: http://www.pacaeromodel.com/MonoC/Manu/Mono.pdf


Ed Cregger

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yea. That is the one I was thinking of. I typed KMP and I meant PAM. I have one of their Gee Bee Y's, and I was in their site looking at something and noticed the clipped wing Monocoupe. Very nice looking plane.

balsaeater

Well Santa came and went and today I got the last few bits and bobs to go with the chimney drop plane from graupner along with 26 cc 160 MVVS with tuned pipe

https://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=9577

today got the servos Hi Tec 475 HB 4.5 kgs type with carbonite gears

i got 3.5 inch wheels as the scale wheels wont work at the grass field if I have to standard landing instead of 3D hover in and catch landing ( just kidding not that good at 3d yet)

I also decided I want to get the biggest prop possible but not sure how to measure up the stuff without buying the prop so took a risk and got from LHS a 18*10 and if that doesnt fit will order from LHS a 3 blade 16*8\

Before I go mucking the big prop any idea what the biggest prop is for these 54 inch wing span ultimates eg 16 or 17 or 18
hopefully the bigger 3.5 inch wheels will supply the extra clearance as 2 blade 18 inch is cheaper to break than 16*8 three blade and is available in most all LHS where three blade can be tricky to get

Like I said in previous post I will be only using full power for towing work or for climbing punch out in 3D and most flying will be sub 2/3 gas to save on fuel which will probably be low 5% nitro with 15% sythetic oil lub for fuel with no Castor and methanol and hopefully the ultra big prop will help to make nice slow vertical decent maneuvers and give GOBs of tractor pull in towing work

Most unusual for a Graupner kit the plans and instructions were AWOL so LHS got me the German download which I babel fish translated (which still looks more like german) pity it is not English or French both lingo I can do or even Spanish I sorta know to read but German is so difficult for me but I built from plans with Russian instructions and I cant read Russian so everything is possible so I got a nice discount as the KIT is no longer available so could not do replace kit option
(I like English or French speaking Santa best )

I could build without Instructions AND usually build most things without ever looking the instructions but if I HAVE THEM it might speed things up so if anybody knows a link with a scanned instructions or has the other makes already scanned then if you can let me Know I could check to what fine details I didn't fully understand

Got to go starting to build

Chow




balsaeater

opjose

The instructions are poor, but I would hope you would not need them for much, otherwise this may not be the plane for you.

Some of the hardware must be changed out and you should re-inforce a few areas as with most ARFs.

Otherwise it's a decent plane considering the price.

It's lighter than it's predecessor so I have no problems using a 1.20 Surpass Pumped engine in it.

The .91 may be too small for it though.

balsaeater

HOT ZIGGIDY

Successful maiden today

Motor MVVS 26cc 160 glow and tuned pipe 5% nitro fuel with 10% synthetic and with 18*10 master airscrew and 55 inch 1400mm Ultimate meant for 90 2 stroke or 120 4 stroke

Fairly conservative spool up to get a good line down the grass field so acceleration was fairly rapid
tweaked the elevator up a tad unstuck after 30 feet and pointed the nose upwards and opened the gas to 3/4 power and ballistic ally arrived to 500 feet in a couple of seconds
I figured best to get height ASAP in case motor acted up and quit but it ran smoothly all the way through the flight

Did a few loops and rolls high up with less than 1/2 gas and a few low passes at 1/8 gas and it was still doing maybe 60 MPH passing the runway

The wheel decided to fall off SOB[:@]

Landing was made engine off glide in and as the undercarage was held on with nyol bolts to shear on rough landing they performed to specs and sheered off having absorbed the fairly abrupt stop from single wheel set up

So off to the LHS to buy another wheel until i can learn how to hover 3d take off and hover landing I wish

grin factor from such outrageous AWSOME excess of power and dropped jaws of the other club members worth every cent

Just got to figure how to stuff in bigger tank than 16 onz preferably 30 onz as fuel seemed to used at more than 1.5 onz per minute WOT and flight time sub 10 minutes and landed with fumes in the tank so 30 onz should give ~20 minutes

I will also look to make the bigger tank with fuel pipes able to toerate gasoline fuel so as to try out a 40% gasoline 60% glow fuel mix to keep costs down a bit but might suffer power loss of 5% from gasoline fuel component but figure plenty of excess to power to lose




Balsaeater[]