Hi All,
Getting ready to assemble this bird, with an S. T. .51 and Macs muffler. Did a search and found one of the problems with this model was hinges. The threads were 2005. Bought this in 2007. Seems the problem has been fixed. Will use 3 pins and ca glue on each hinge half. Anyone have any recent problems? Weak areas that should be addressed?
Thanks
Al

The control surfaces actually come pre-hinged, hence the complaints from early purchasers. If you do the hinges yourself and they fail, you don''t generally complain about it. Just be sure to check the factory installed hinges by pulling on them lightly. Phoenix Models actually pins them at the factory now, so I''d be surprised if you run into any that are questionable.

The only issue I had with my first SeaBee back in 2006 was that the stock engine mount alignment resulted in some moderate upthrust issues and needed to be shimmed out. I am breaking in a Magnum .52 four stroke on my second SeaBee right now. I flew my first one on an O.S. Max .46 FXi and it had plenty of power. Your Super Tigre G-51 ringed with Macs muffler should provide outstanding performance.

Overall, the plane is a terrific sport/pattern design that is solidly built, very easy to assemble, and a pleasure to fly. I believe that the Phoenix SeaBee may be the best $99.99 ARF on the planet.

Good luck and good flying!

Make sure you put a decent servo on the elevator, Lost my first one due to fluter.


Jeff

thanks all for the advice.
pulled tested all the hingi joints. they seem strong. will tape all surfaces to help with flutter.
any others ?
going to gether est so far.
al

What resists flutter most of all is rigging that''s free of slop. No play in the connectors and a solid servo with no slop is what matters. Almost all flutter comes from loose connections.

Sealing hinge lines certainly helps the surface be more effective, but that''s about it.

I have also read where flutter can also be caused by having small diameter control rods trying to control large surfaces. Going to a larger rod solved the flutte problem.

Thanks People,
I''ll check for slop, good idea.
Think I''ll replace the pushrods to something I''m familar with, or carbon fiber tubes from my electrics.
Made a .125 spacer for the Macs muffler so it would clear the fuse. The stock ST .51 muffler is UGLY!!

Al

I had an early version one with a ST 51 in it as well. Very nice flying small plane. The early ones had a contorted split rod for the elevator that had a lot of flex but the new ones are differant. I sold my first one and I missed it so I have since purchased another one. The new one is made nicer than my earlier version one ie. laser cut. I have purchased a YS FZ.63S for my new one, it should have power to spare. You may want to consider mounting one or two servos on the rear of the fuse if you are nose heavy with the Super Tiger, my old one was a little nose heavy with the servos in the stock position. I will probably have to mount them at the rear of the fuse on my new one and I think my YS is about the same weight as the Super Tiger. I think you will enjoy flying this plane.

<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt"><font face="Calibri" size="3">I just got my Sea Bee flying and I have a question. With all planes I have flown so far (5) when I move the aileron stick lets say to make a 45 degree turn, the planes would continue to turn 45 degree until I turn the other way to put it back level. With the Sea Bee, when I move the stick just a little the plane will start the 45 degree and get slowly into a 60 and 80 and so on. In other words. The wing will continue to drop more and more. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Is that common to pattern airplane or is there something I can do to prevent this to happen. Thanks.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt">

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I have one of these and it never does that it stops where I put it. Check to see if your servos are returning to center. Also make sure you have no slop in your elevator I lost my first to flutter.
good luck. It's a great little plane.