I am building an Ultra Stick 40 and would like help picking the servos. I am looking to spend less than or close to $20 a piece.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=JSP20050

That's what I've used in both of mine, and I fly the everloving bejeezus out of them, with nary a servo problem.

The US40 doesn't need any more than that.

I am a Futaba man 3004 would work just fine.

Agreed...the S3004 would also work fine. Just a matter of preference and/or availability.

I have used the JR Sport ST47's on my other two planes and have no complaint. I did not want to find out later that if I had spent a few more dollars on servos my Ultra Stick would have flown much better.

Hay Blazer1,
I have the Ultra Stick .40...with a K&B .61 Twister in the nose. I use Airtronics standard 94102's and I've no problems so far. The model is over four years old, and still going strong. These servo's I'm using do not have bearings.

I beefed up my landing gear support, by adding a 3/8th. piece of good aircraft ply to the inside floor of the model, installed my servo's for the rudder and elevator in the rear outside of my model, and added more supports to my fire wall. I then coated every thing from my fire wall rear, on the inside, to the aft wing hold down area...50/50 2hr. epoxy and denatured alcohol, for fuel proofing. I also added brass tubing to my wing hold down dowls, because my wood dowls began to wear, and gave me a loose fit for my wing/fuse hold down issue.

I had a four servo wing for a while, but then...ended up going to a two servo wing in the end. The model is a blast to fly. I also added a different tail wheel assy. to my model.

Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui
AMA 15016

Bob, Could you explain with some detail how your tail wheel hook up works? I want to do that to an US .60 I am building. I can only get the top half of the image to download.

Thanks

Steve

Dear Steve,
The tail hook up is a bit basic, but it sure works. All I did is add a second rudder control horn, to the rudder, and looped wire to connect from the tail wheel stearing arm, to the second control horn on my rudder. I'ts simple, it's easy to dial in and adjust, and it works. Enclosed are a couple of pictures, and if you need more information, just ask.
Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui
AMA 15016

Bob, How did you connect the Dubro Gear to the horizontal Stab? Did you use the blind nuts supplied with the gear, also did you glue the connectors to the control horns?

Thanks, from Texas

Steve

Bob You're a genius!!! What an idea. I finished a Super Chipmonk a month ago. It has the same split elevator that your plane has. I finally put it up on the shelf. I had given up how to figure out how to hook up the tailwheel to turn w/ the rudder & make it look good too. I can't wait untill tomorrow & fix it like yours !!!!!! Thanks again !!!!! Ain't this a great hobby !!!!!

Hay Steve,
I believe I used 1/8th. aircraft grade plywood and cut it to shape. I did this before I installed my rudder and elevator...and I also put a doubler inside the fuse. Its easy before you glue your stab and rudder in and I used he same blind nuts that came with the tail wheel assy. This has never failed me so far...even after a real hard landing. My model was going to come out nose heavy as it was, with the .61 installed. That is why I also placed my rudder and elevator servo's in the tail-for balance, and easy to check here too. I needed a model I could rely on, easy to trim, and fun to fly. You just can't beat an ugly stick, and I don't care who makes it. The hanger 9 issue of the model is very well done, and it's been well used, rode hard, and keeps on flying.

I also ran some thin CA down the inside of my model. Some of the balsa used can be to soft for my liking, so by runnng some CA thin down the sides, it kind of fixes that problem. I would higly suggest to place a 1/4" ply brace under your main landing gear. If you don't...it will come lose in time. I put a brace from the front bulkhead aft of the fuel tank, aft for 3". I used good two hour epoxy to do this, and with this, you will not have a main landing gear attacment issue again. I am hard on my models...I love to do touch and go's, so I beat up my landing gear alot. This model is four years old.

I do place a drop of thin CA glue on control horn attachment hardware. Just a drop on the head and screw end.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
AMA 15016

Hay outdoorhunting,
This ain't my idea...I just copied it from another modeler...but it sure is a good idea.
Soft landing always,
Bobby of Maui
AMA 15016

I've had US 40's since they first came out.

I've had four US-40's and all of them usually had Saito 56 or 50 engines. I did use Saito 72's and 82's for a short while on one of them. These engines will all interchange on the same mount.

I changed all of them to use a Great Planes engine mount as with a four stroke engine and the original aluminum mount, they are very nose heavy and need a lot of weight in the tail. I also used Dave Brown 3 1/2" treaded wheels to fly off grass. I never had any trouble with the gear breaking loose out of the fuselage.

Two had four servo wings and one of those was converted back to two servos. I presently only have the remaining four servo version. It is the later style red one with the counter balanced rudder. I don't get any thrill from using the crow method of landing approach therefore the flaps are set up parallel with one reversed servo. The ailerons will not raise in spoiler fashion.

They have used Futaba 3004 and Hitec 425 servos and had several hundred flights.

However, if you are going to run the high and low rates as listed in the manual, these servos have marginal resolution at center when using the low rates.

If you want to be a true true 3D person (and I don't consider the US 40 to be the best 3D plane in the world), you should consider the cheaper digital servos.